I'm planning my winter project for my 68 BB convert. I would like to add the Steeroids R&P power steering conversion to my manual steering car with NOM 454. I expect the hardware installation of the rack, tie rods, etc will be straight forward, but I would like feedback on the power steering pump, pulley and bracket installation. I had to fabricate a bracket for my alternator when I changed to aluminum heads, so I may have fitment problems with the PS pump brackets. Anyone done this conversion with advice?

 

Check out the Borgeson system. It's an easy install and performs great.

 

I have the Steeroids on my 74, albeit the engine is a LSx. What I can say is two things.

1. The power rack will put more fun into your car everytime your behind the wheel.
2. With all the technology introduced into todays cars, wanna guess what 99 44/100 of them use for steering? Indeed. Think about that for a moment....

 

When the 6t8 sbc first got Steeroids power R&P I used a pump and brackets from a mid 70s Impala, same would apply for a big block. After the pump blew I went with a KRC power steer pump and bracket. Much easier mounting, but more money. Dr. Rebuild sells OEM mounting brackets. As 'rcread' mentioned the Borgeson conversion is a great way to go for half the money. T

 

I have the steeroids on my 79 L82 SB; it's worth checking out the IDEAL pressure and flow #'s for the Steeroids kit vs. the power steering pump that your car actually has. I found my 79 to be outside of the ideal range in both pressure and flow. It's pretty hard to turn at idle RPMs and cuts in and out.

I'm eventually going to replace the power steering pump with one in the recommended range but I wish I would've looked into this first.


Adam

 

If You order the rack for power steering it can be used with or with out PS. So You might install it first before the PS and then see how you like it. If You still want to have PS then work on what pump to use. The new Gen II Pumps that come on LS motors have way to much flow and need a flow restrictor installed. And then it still has to much.

 

My '72 went to serp drive when I bought it, in '95, and the pressure/flow valves from the '72 pump got put in the serp drive pump.....some years later I put in the rack, and used the same valving that was from the '72 and in the pump already.....so I know full well the '72 stock setup is fine for the racks we are using ......the '72 valving was a typical double flare, and so using the hoses I got with the rack, I just spliced the 3/8 steel lines using a double ended brass compression fitting like used in plumbing from Home Despot......been there for 15 years now, driven a few times a week.....

 

Their website shows only a recirculating ball system, but no rack and pinion. I already have a brand new steering gear, but want to go to R&P with power steering pump.

 

The racks we all use come from a '89 Grand Am Pontiac.....or similar....the wheel is 2.7 turns lock to lock , the ratio on the Jeep box is the same I am told.....so ASSuming everything is in good condition, I can't see there would be much difference.....but have to admit, eliminating all that extra hardware would subtract weight....and maybe noticed by some in performance/handling....

 

The pump will only apply the needed pressure as required by the torsion rod in the rack, same as the recirculating ball set up. The pump will apply the needed pressure up to the max its set for and max pressure is set by the spring, shims and ball in the pump fitting (usually somewhere around 800 to 1200 psi). The steering feel can be somewhat adjusted by flow but there are limits to how much change can be made.

Neal

 

I would be careful using a power rack as a manual rack, the torsion rod will allow for some play in the steering. They are designed to operate safely without power (pump failure or belt failure) but there will be some play without the pump.

Neal

 

Correct, with the stock pump setup I could turn the wheel at very slow speeds with my pinky.

I added the shims to the pump to reduce the pressure and it now takes more effort at slow speeds.

No change at freeway speeds.

 

Ron,

I swapped out the SBC for my BBC this past winter and installed Steeroids R&P while I was at it. All I had was SBC brackets etc so I had to go online and search for what I needed. I ended up fabbing my PS pump bracket because the fancy BBC I ordered one sat too low on the block and the pulley would hit the cross member. I'll take some pics tomorrow night if you would like? Easy Fab job mate.

Cheers,

Ryan

 

Thanks. Photos would help me plan what I need to do. I have fabricated a bunch of stuff for this car already. Latest was a strut brace similar to the shark type, but half the cost plus my labor. I already have a custom bracket for my alternator, so one for the PS pump would complete the set.

 

Ron - here's the original start of this. Right PS bracket idea, wrong PS bracket application.
Just to get your thoughts jumping a bit regarding the PS.

Chat tomorrow.

 

Ron,

I used the two bolt holes in the front of the block that the bracket would usually bolt to. I used some 3/16 flat bar, cut 1 piece to fit against the block after drilling two holes and welded another piece to that. The 2nd piece was just for length to see how far down I could put the pump before the pulley hit the frame and to see how far back, away from the engine (towards the left fender I wanted to go). I ended up using the existing 3/8 bolt holes on the bottom of the pump (facing each other-one on each side mirroring the other)
To keep it off of the frame I ended up going perfectly lateral away from the bottom bolt that was in the block. Essentially a 90 degree right angle.

Now the top, adjusting one (I can't get a pic) is supposed to go from the back of the pump to the third bolt hole in the block (You can see it a bit in the chrome bracket pic). Because I raised my pump up, the filler cap was very very close to the big *** alternator bracket and I didn't have a lot of adjustment) so I went and used the top bolt hole that also was used on the bottom part of the bracket. Made an adjustable slot in the fab piece and good to go. I used a couple of washers between the block and bracket to line it up perfect.

Sorry my friend, I'm not a machinist or a welder but this would give you a head start-or at least show you what i did.

Cheers

 

Ryan- thanks for the photos. I'll probably use a plan similar to what you used. One alternative I have seen on some ebay crate engines is placing the alternator and PS pump on opposite sides of the block. I suppose it doesn't make much difference as long as you can find belts the correct length and PS hoses long enough to reach. I do not have AC on the car, so that frees up some space. I'll also have a couple months during the winter to figure it out. RA

 

I just installed Steeroids R&P in my '74. i am getting a groaning sound when turn the wheel at very low speeds or when stopped. I have contacted Speed Direct about the problem, but they have been no help. Has anyone else had this problem?

 

Groan is from air in the oil, make sure res is full, and in the garage, turn the wheel full over side to side 3-4 times, that will just about eliminate all the air in the system....wait over night, by AM the groan is gawn....

 

I appreciate your help, but I have done as you said several times with negative results. It must be something else. i'm looking for other suggestions. Thanks.