I can possibly see it if it were an automatic transmission.

And if you are commenting on it being a manual transmission... I applaud you if that is how you do it. I have patience and the ability to do it...but I just can not grasp the concept of me trying to index in the input shaft of a manual transmission into the clutch and get it into the pilot bushing without any damage. If you have mastered this...I would love to be a fly on the wall and watch you do it. Not doubting you...just so I can be amazed.

I have been amazed by how some mechanics I know do things that I just would not do...as when they see me do some stuff they are amazed......so...major hats-off to you.

I am sticking with what I know works for me.

DUB

 

I too dropped transmission, bell housing, clutch, and flywheel first. I did remove the radiator to preclude any chance of damage. Big Block popped right out.

 

I've done it that way on all types of cars my whole life. if for whatever reason it was too tight to get to bellhousing bolts, I'd pull the four out of the trans..but not usually.

I don't actually own a clutch "line up tool". I've used them, or an old input shaft...but usually I just snug the pressure plate up enough where I can slide the disc around a little with a long screwdriver inserted through the spline area. I use my fingers around the edges of the pressure plate to determine the disc is centered properly. Always works.

I don't own one of those cool engine level adjuster tools either. I just use a chain with the "proper" angle.

I have solid mounts on my engine..so it could be a little tougher since they don't wiggle any..but no issue either way. Once I stab to the trans...I leave trans in gear so if I rock the car a little the shaft turns and it slips right in once you have the angle proper between engine and trans.

Then, if necessary, I use a long prybar...like the handle off a floorjack to "pop" the engine over the mounts. More for leverage and ease....could be done by hand..but big bar makes it easy with very little pressure needed.

here's an old shot dropping it in. Radiator and shroud are in place and bellhousing/scattershield is bolted to trans in the car.

JIM

 

I agree and do it the same way and have never had a problem as long as you get the engine angle on the hoist even close to the input shaft angle. Half a dozen bell housing bolts is much better than playing with removal of the shifter linkage, driveshaft, trans oil (it's still going to run all over your floor out the tail), mount bolts, speedo cable, reverse switch stuff. For a guy doing this at home without a lift, removing the trans with the engine is real back breaking stuff if there is no need to do any actual transmission work. Heck, most of the bell housing bolts come out easier from above than below.
Newer Corvettes now, you need a lift (the right lift) along with special tables and equipment to work on it because everything including the engine comes out from the bottom.
It discourages the backyard guy from trying to do anything himself which is probably GM's intention.

 

I'll admit it... when I pulled mine out last year, I was a lazy hack and I blew it.... I unbolted the bell from the motor and went to pull it with just the clutch attached, and hopefully having a smooth departure from the input shaft.

As a busy man that doesn't get to finish all things he starts on any given day, I apparently removed 5 bell housing bolts, and left a loosened one in place. This was not discovered until I had this whole mess coming out... and well it went something like this..

1. Broke section of bell housing off that was retained by loosened non-removed bolt.
2. Input shaft rode on pressure plate finger and bent it.

If I had any sense I would have just removed the trans, and then pulled the motor with the bell housing attached.

Instead I now needed a new bell housing and clutch that would have otherwise been recycled onto my new motor.

Im confident that I would not be able to align a stationary manual, into a clutch disc on a 600lb moving object, but my hat goes off to those who can!

P.S when it all went back together, I installed them separately, but with trans already under car, not bolted in place. Clutch and bell pre-installed on to motor.

 

Pulled the transmission off the motor(automatic) and then pulled the motor. Car was up on jackstands, did all the work by myself. Transmission was then pulled out from under the car and sent out for refreshing. Then put them back in in reverse order, by myself. Idid have the radiator out because the motor area was detailed while motor was out, hood was also removed.

 

Clearly it seems that both methods will work and that depends on the equipment and what the person doing it wants to do or not do.

I do not use a cheery picker/engine hoist. I have a chain fall that is stationary...so I roll the car backwards when the engine/transmission combo is coming out. So ...clearly I can not keep the transmission pressed up against the floor board area to do it in the other manner.

And as for removing/disconnecting the components that are under the car is a chance for me to clank tools from time to time and try to catch a quick cat nap while laying on my back under the car. I also mark the drive shaft in relation to the transmission yoke and leave the yoke in the transmission and do not get any oil or fluid on the ground when pulling it out.

DUB

 

Evening DUB There is a smartphone app I found that has a driveline angle finder. It is called the Tremec Tool Box and is free. It is very accurate and can quickly measure camber front and rear, caster, driveshaft and halfshaft angles, and anything else down to a tenth of a degree. I can lay the edge of my iPhone on the input shaft then up on the machined bellhousing surface on the back of the block. It will automatically compensate for the 90 degree turn up (no idea how) and will give you the correct angle on both down to 1/10th of a degree. It's really handy instead of guessing on engine angle and makes it easy. I have been doing it without for the last 40 years but this makes it pretty simple and is dead accurate. Below is a camber check on the rear of my 69 using a scrap piece of marble counter top for a straight edge to measure from. I am not phone or computer savy but was told that my iPhone has some sort of built in nav gyro and it gave me the exact same measurements as on the alignment machine. It also works VERY well on setting hoist engine angle to input shaft angle when dropping it in by yourself. A little side to side movement and the input shaft slides into the bushing. The only thing you have to do is take any plastic protective cover off the phone so the straight edge on the phone is accurate.

 

It's all in what you get used to and how much experience you have doing it. I remember the first C2 trans I pulled to swap the clutch. I cussed and fussed the whole time. I was used to Camaro's, Nova's, Chevelle's and Tri-Five Chevy's.

On my next one...I decided to pull the engine because it would be "easier". Not sure if it really was...but it sure cost me a lot more because I got into the "while I'm at it" syndrome and before the clutch went back together there were new pistons, cam and heads in/on the motor!!

When I first had the Doug Nash (Richmond) 5 speed in it....you couldn't get trans out without at least lifting engine off mounts and sliding it forward a little. The second time I had to go through that it got a removable crossmember installed! Now it's a breeze to pull the trans.

JIM

 

To unbolt the transmission, and pull the motor takes less time than posting this and reading the replys. Anyways that's how I have always done, big block or small block. unbolt the tranny, have it propped up. remove the engine. when I put the bbc in my 76, I didn't even remove the radiator.

 

In the process of downloading the app from Tremec Tool Box. A really neat app. Can see use for many things.
Thanks Canada
RVZIO

 

That is super cool.

Bad thing is I do not do the new phone technology stuff....to me it is pointless in what I do. But I do have a way of finding angles though....but seeing how I do not use an engine hoist/cherry picker...I pull and install engines with transmissions attached due to my stationary chain fall.

DUB

 

You can do a big block with trans attached if you're persistent and think it through. Had a Harbor Frieght engine hoist, and Macs pivot plate. The hoist was modified with a longer boom, with bracing to support. There was about 200 lbs of counter widgets on the front legs to keep it from tipping over. Had to persuade the tail shaft further down as well. This was done with the core support in place. Had to remove the drivers side exhmanifold to clear, but other than that went in good.

 

I've always pulled and installed engine and trans together.