Ls swap
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Ls swap
Hello, I am planning to someday swap a LSx into my 78. I'd like to make this as easy as possible. I was wondering, is there a certain combination of LSx and car which would be easier to swap than another? Example would a LS from a 2004 vette be easier then an LS from a Camaro? Just using the 2004 as an example. Also not looking for crazy hp, just want to go with something more modern.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
The following users liked this post:
kingkohlmn (08-30-2017)
The following users liked this post:
kingkohlmn (08-30-2017)
#4
I went with an Fbody, but you can use others. HP Tuners and few credits opens up of WORLD of tuning options...
For ease of install, make sure you get a running engine to start with. I didn't and there is an easier way. That means engine, PCM, wiring harness and decide whether you want an auto or standard transmission (wiring harness pinout change)
The rest is pretty straightforward, and the end results are shall we say.....
worth it?
750 HP, LS3/LSA ,Air Cond, Power Rack and Pinion, overdrive, 3:73 coggs. Boils the BFG 295-50-15's at 90 plus mph. 17.4 mpg @ 65 mph.
For ease of install, make sure you get a running engine to start with. I didn't and there is an easier way. That means engine, PCM, wiring harness and decide whether you want an auto or standard transmission (wiring harness pinout change)
The rest is pretty straightforward, and the end results are shall we say.....
worth it?
750 HP, LS3/LSA ,Air Cond, Power Rack and Pinion, overdrive, 3:73 coggs. Boils the BFG 295-50-15's at 90 plus mph. 17.4 mpg @ 65 mph.
The following users liked this post:
kingkohlmn (08-30-2017)
#5
Racer
For the most part, any LS will be the same as far as fitment goes. A few specific things to take note as far as selecting an engine:
Good luck! I'm nearly done with my LS3 swap, only major challenge has been the cutting a hole for the shiftier and the driveshaft was hitting the tunnel (An issue I haven't seen others had, so it might be unique to my car).
Oh yeah, make a budget for your swap and then double it... LOTS of little nickle and dime things along the way that you don't think of that add up.
- There are different accessory spacings, "F Body", Truck, Corvette, and a few odd ball ones. I used F Body spacing (where the power steering pump is in front of the driver cylinder head, and alternator is below on the drivers side). My alternator bracket is close to the engine mount but otherwise they fit well. I think others on here have used truck spacing with slight modification.
- Truck intake manifolds are taller than car intakes, not sure if they would fit or not. The car (Corvette, Camaro, GTO, G8, etc) intake manifold certainly fits.
- Truck blocks are typically iron instead of aluminum.. if you care about weight.
- Earlier LSx's use a cable throttle, newer ones use a fly-by-wire throttle and need the right accelerator pedal to go with them (If you're using the stock PCM). Its probably easier to swap in a cable throttle LSx, though the newer LSxs make more power as they're larger displacement and have better cylinder heads.
- If you plan to use the stock computer, its faster/easier if the engine you buy comes with the original computer, sensors, harness, etc. If not, MegaSquirt is a cheap ECM option but you need to be comfortable with tuning. Or, Holley has a great and relatively easy engine controller, but it isn't cheap.
- Your stock transmission can work with an LS but may need an adapter plate, flywheel or different bell housing etc. If you plan to use a modern transmission the T56 will fit but needs a modified cross member and perhaps a hole cut in the tunnel. I'm not sure about the modern automatics
Good luck! I'm nearly done with my LS3 swap, only major challenge has been the cutting a hole for the shiftier and the driveshaft was hitting the tunnel (An issue I haven't seen others had, so it might be unique to my car).
Oh yeah, make a budget for your swap and then double it... LOTS of little nickle and dime things along the way that you don't think of that add up.
The following users liked this post:
kingkohlmn (08-30-2017)
#6
I bought my '68 right after the LS swap. I have all the receipts, owner that had the work done (not a wrench) spent 28k for parts/labor for a shop to do the swap. Brand new, not rebuilt LS crate motor, 425hp 5.7. New 4L60e, used ECM from 2000 firebird. They didn't fab anything, bought the conversion mounts, bellhousing, wp, etc, new headers. Looks great, all bolt in, I'd have done myself rather than pay someone, the labor bill was nutz. He did all that and then he dumped the car 95% finished, I picked it up from where it sat for a year for 14k. I've looked into LS conversions for other vettes, for low cost I'd go with '99/'00 fbody or vette.
The following users liked this post:
kingkohlmn (08-30-2017)
#7
I have "crate" LS1 in my 71.Bought the last one Pace had from Chevrolet. Bought a rebuilt 4L60E. If you stay with a 24 tooth reluctor engine (I think 2004-2005 or before) the PCM can control the engine and transmission. 58 tooth reluctor engines have a computer for the engine and one for the transmission. If your are going to run a manual transmission it really doesn't matter. Drive buy cable or drive by wire throttle both work well.
I like the Fbody accessory front drive because the alternator is down and out of sight.
Bought a shifter conversion from Shift Works so the stock shifter works with the 4L60E.
I replaced the all stock gauges with Auto Meter Sport Comps.
I like using a dual pass radiator because it puts the inlet and outlet on the passenger side for cleaner radiator hose routing.
With the 4L60E overdrive I put in 3:70 gears.
Keep in mind LS1 engines haven't been built for over 10 years so be careful buying a "low" mileage LS1. I would be tempted to buy a used 5.3 iron block, bore to 5.7 specs and drop in a stroker crank to 383 cubes. Still would be lighter than a small block and more cubes than a LS3.
I've done about 10 LS swaps into various vehicles and always bought the engine wiring harness and computer from the same supplier. I like Howell Fuel Injection. Speartech is very good also.
I like the Fbody accessory front drive because the alternator is down and out of sight.
Bought a shifter conversion from Shift Works so the stock shifter works with the 4L60E.
I replaced the all stock gauges with Auto Meter Sport Comps.
I like using a dual pass radiator because it puts the inlet and outlet on the passenger side for cleaner radiator hose routing.
With the 4L60E overdrive I put in 3:70 gears.
Keep in mind LS1 engines haven't been built for over 10 years so be careful buying a "low" mileage LS1. I would be tempted to buy a used 5.3 iron block, bore to 5.7 specs and drop in a stroker crank to 383 cubes. Still would be lighter than a small block and more cubes than a LS3.
I've done about 10 LS swaps into various vehicles and always bought the engine wiring harness and computer from the same supplier. I like Howell Fuel Injection. Speartech is very good also.
The following users liked this post:
kingkohlmn (08-30-2017)
#9
Former Vendor
The engines have different oil pans depending on what they came out of. Holley makes a nice "Muscle Car" pan that is shaped to fit the older cars. We usually use the 302-2 pan from them.
#10
I have an Fbody oil pan on mine and it hangs down below the cross member which concerns me. I've never hit anything with it but I'm careful.
I did the Borgesen steering swap on mine so I believe I can swap out the Camaro oil for a bat wing oil pan from a C5 Z06. I believe it will fit and won't hang down below the cross member.
I did the Borgesen steering swap on mine so I believe I can swap out the Camaro oil for a bat wing oil pan from a C5 Z06. I believe it will fit and won't hang down below the cross member.