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Just about to pull the motor from my 1969 big block.
All new to me.
I have done lots of reading and research but can't find any good explanation of a few items.
I have already removed hood/radiator/shroud/alt/exhaust ect
I plan to pull it with the M21 attached and this it the part I can't find much info on.
Can someone explain the steps required to disconnect the drive shaft etc. and anything else with respect to the transmission? Does the center column need to be removed for the shifter?
I am getting pretty comfortable with the engine but the m21 is a bit of a mystery to me never having removed or pulled one apart. (or any transmission for that matter)
Just a few simple layman instructions would be very appreciated.
The factory shifter mounts to the crossmember, but the linkage (naturally) is attached to the trans. So that will need to be disconnected along with the speedo cable and wiring for the backup light switch. The clutch linkage will also need to be removed.
As you remove the unit, you will need to "walk" the trans forward until it clears the crossmember, then it will need to drop down to get the angle for the engine to come up and out. Make sure your lifting apparatus, (cherry picker, Hoist, whatever) has the capacity to handle both the engine and trans and not tip.
Don't forget the oil pressure line at the left rear of the engine and all the wiring harness connections. Starter, coil, water temp, alternator.
Hi Pete,
Here you can see the tail housing of the transmission, the u-joint at the drive shaft, the bracket that the shifter body mounts to and the single bolt that secures the shifter body to the bracket.
Regards,
Alan
Alan,
Those pics are so helpful.
So basically I disconnect the shifter rods from the side of the transmission (I am familiar with those when I had to re align my reverse gear about a year ago) and then I can separate my shifter from the shifter bracket and essentially remove my entire shifter assembly prior to removing the engine/transmission?
Great
Alan,
Those pics are so helpful.
So basically I disconnect the shifter rods from the side of the transmission (I am familiar with those when I had to re align my reverse gear about a year ago) and then I can separate my shifter from the shifter bracket and essentially remove my entire shifter assembly prior to removing the engine/transmission?
Great
That's about it. With removing 2 or 3 more bolts you can remove the shifter bracket too- and not have to worry about it getting bent. Not much room in there as you know.
Drain the trans and get a tailshaft plug or you'll have gear oil everywhere. I find it difficult to reach the driveshaft bolt at the pinion yoke without spinning the wheels. So you may need to lift the rear for that step.
Alan,
Those pics are so helpful.
So basically I disconnect the shifter rods from the side of the transmission (I am familiar with those when I had to re align my reverse gear about a year ago) and then I can separate my shifter from the shifter bracket and essentially remove my entire shifter assembly prior to removing the engine/transmission?
Great
Pull the entire shifter assembly as a unit (including shift rods). This will save you from adjustment headaches upon reassembly.
Thanks Neil,
I got the shifter rods off so they are dangling free. Now fighting to access the "driveshaft bolts" so looks like as you say being able to turn the back wheels will make the other 2 bolts accessible.
I will try to dig up a "tailshaft plug". Hopefully my local auto store will have one of those.
A lift would sure be nice in this situation!
I haven't removed that rear transmission mount bracket and the exhaust mount bracket yet. I presume I need a small jack to hold up the transmission housing prior to removing those two brackets and the "rubber thing" between the two brackets.
(My auto repair vocabulary needs a bit of work)
Hi Pete,
Yes, you'll need to support the rear of the transmission when you remove the transmission mount ('the rubber thing') while you're removing those bolts.
There's quite an assortment of bolts, washers and nuts for the transmission mount bracket, the rubber mount, and the exhaust bracket.
You'll want to note what was used where so reassembly will go easier.
Regards,
Alan
These are placed in their relative location to each other. The assembly manual will help too.
So I now am just about ready to pull this engine and transmissions as one.
couple quick questions.
1. can I leave my steering system bars and ram in place. It looks like I should be able to clear them?
2. Shall I jack up the back of the car or just leave it on its wheels?
3. I shall come in at the side, shall I remove the right front wheel so the jack can maneuver.
4. Should I be worried out moving my hoist arm out to the 1/2 ton position? I suspect I have no choice as I will need to lift the engine fairly high to get it out or would the 1 ton position be sufficient?
The engine weighs around 750lbs. Add for the trans if it's still attached.
Nothing on the steering needs to be removed or even taken loose.
I would remove the right front wheel and send the cherry picker in from the side. Even with a stand under the control arm you still have plenty of room to move the hoist around.
Hook the lift chain/fixture as close to the top of the engine as you can. You won't lose any gains to height, and still be able to clear the nose/fender as the engine comes out.
I agree with removing the right wheel and coming in from the side. The picker needs to be centered over the engine, so use whatever boom length that allows you to center it. If you don't center the picker the motor will shift and 'self-center' under the picker as soon as you clear the motor mounts (try to avoid this). You'll need to come forward with the picker as you lift in order for the trans to clear the tunnel and firewall, so position your right side jack stand to allow for this. I like at least 3 people when pulling a motor. 1 to operate the picker, 1 to hold/stabilize the engine, and 1 to steer the transmission from below.
Pulling motor 1969 Big Block
