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Here is what I bought
There are three sets of snap rings. Copper, silver and purple. Maybe different sizes? No idea. Thoughts?
Baggie says Light/Medium Duty Service Kit. "Pre-lubed Do Not add lubrication"
Yes they are
Yes the retaining rings are different sized for the groove in the yoke, that can fool you tho if your caps are not pressed in all the way, also there is so many of them for the full round yokes where all 4 caps are pressed in and no straps
Yes, the color indicates thickness and copper is the thinnest but still a bit tight. I wish I had a use for all the extra ones, got a few hundred of them.
Mike
Use the copper colored. Be sure your snap ring grooves are very clean.
Mike
1,000,000% SUPER IMPORTANT!!!
Originally Posted by tracdogg2
Yes, the color indicates thickness and copper is the thinnest but still a bit tight. I wish I had a use for all the extra ones, got a few hundred of them.
Mike
Dub, thanks. I was curious about inside the cups.
The 1350's came in the mail today. I unfortunately don't have a press, so I'll use my trusty dead blow hammer and my c clamp.
I'll try to get a couple pics when I start the assembly.
I know you are going to do what you have to do if you are determined to install these yourself and not take them to a driveline shop that can do them for you.....so.... be careful if you are hammering on it.
Also if you have an Oreilly's around you or other auto store that may offer the service.....I know Oreilly's offers tools that you can rent. Give them a deposit..and when you are done....take the tool back and you get ALL your money back..so it does not cost you anything.
The "zerk-less" u-joints use a VERY stiff high temperature grease so never add any #2 chassis grease to it because it'll get diluted. The grease used might be the same grease that is called "open gear" grease.
I know you are going to do what you have to do if you are determined to install these yourself and not take them to a driveline shop that can do them for you.....so.... be careful if you are hammering on it.
Also if you have an Oreilly's around you or other auto store that may offer the service.....I know Oreilly's offers tools that you can rent. Give them a deposit..and when you are done....take the tool back and you get ALL your money back..so it does not cost you anything.
DUB
I've got some 2x6's rigged up as a cradle. Got the two joints and the flange installed tonight, but I can only get one copper coloured clip in each joint. Don't want to pound on it to "make it fit".
Oh, yeah, the parts place shorted me one set of copper clips. Nice.
A friend has a shop, I'll toss him a case of beer and I'm sure he'd press them tighter for me
Should the assembled joint be free and loose to rotate or tight? I need two hands to rotate the joints as of now.
Nobody in my hood "rents" a press unfortunately.
Last edited by Dodosmike; Sep 28, 2017 at 09:43 PM.
I've got some 2x6's rigged up as a cradle. Got the two joints and the flange installed tonight, but I can only get one copper coloured clip in each joint. Don't want to pound on it to "make it fit".
Oh, yeah, the parts place shorted me one set of copper clips. Nice.
A friend has a shop, I'll toss him a case of beer and I'm sure he'd press them tighter for me
Should the assembled joint be free and loose to rotate or tight? I need two hands to rotate the joints as of now.
Nobody in my hood "rents" a press unfortunately.
After you've installed the new joints, if it doesn't turn freely or has a tight spot, give one side of the yoke one good smack with your ball peen. It's like magic how it will free right up and feel perfect after the shock against the yoke jounces the joint.
The U-joint press I am referring to is a large 'C' clamp that is tighten by using an impact....and not so much a stand up type hydraulic press. Mine looks just like the one in the photo below
Originally Posted by JS81vette
After you've installed the new joints, if it doesn't turn freely or has a tight spot, give one side of the yoke one good smack with your ball peen. It's like magic how it will free right up and feel perfect after the shock against the yoke jounces the joint.
But as how it was stated...AFTER you have it installed.
The U-joint press I am referring to is a large 'C' clamp that is tighten by using an impact....and not so much a stand up type hydraulic press. Mine looks just like the one in the photo below
But as how it was stated...AFTER you have it installed.
DUB
Never seen such a tool. Thanks
After it's installed, yeah, but I'm fighting to get both clips installed. I guess I need to get the caps on further (tighter).
If it's tight, what do I smack to loosen? The joint cap or the end (ear) of the halfshaft?
Last edited by Dodosmike; Sep 29, 2017 at 08:46 PM.
The U-joint press I am referring to is a large 'C' clamp that is tighten by using an impact....and not so much a stand up type hydraulic press. Mine looks just like the one in the photo below
But as how it was stated...AFTER you have it installed.
DUB
You can buy DUB's at Autozone or any of the major auto parts stores.
Some of these are combo tools allowing you to do u-joints AND press-in ball joints also. Removal and install.
Depends on if you plan on doing more than one.
"Never can have too many tools"
"Buy the best quality you can afford unless you will only use it a couple of times (Harbor Freight)"
Bman (Dennis)
Last edited by bmans vette; Sep 29, 2017 at 11:44 PM.
In Canukistan, well, in Ontario at least we have Princess Auto, same thing as HF. Said press, is $109. I'm going to try a local auto parts place to see if they have the c press.
Thanks for the guidance everybody. Hopefully the hijack kinda stayed on topic.
After it's installed, yeah, but I'm fighting to get both clips installed. I guess I need to get the caps on further (tighter).
If it's tight, what do I smack to loosen? The joint cap or the end (ear) of the halfshaft?
I have never needed a u joint press or specific tool for any u joint other than a hammer or c clamp, sometimes if it's really stuck a shop press or vice. But you might double check and make sure a needle didn't drop and the cap is on top of it preventing it from seating all the way. If everything is clean and no burred steel or smashed clip grooves from your hammer than you have the wrong u joint. But more than likely you just need to clean up the clip grooves so they snap in place correctly.
After it's installed, yeah, but I'm fighting to get both clips installed. I guess I need to get the caps on further (tighter).
If it's tight, what do I smack to loosen? The joint cap or the end (ear) of the halfshaft?
you would smack what your calling the ear of the half shaft. Right on the curve of it just behind the cap you pressed in.
After it's installed, yeah, but I'm fighting to get both clips installed. I guess I need to get the caps on further (tighter).
If it's tight, what do I smack to loosen? The joint cap or the end (ear) of the halfshaft?
you would smack what your calling the ear of the half shaft. Right on the curve of it just behind the cap you pressed in.
As stated by 'bmans vette'...the tool I posted a photo of is a 'combo' tool from OTC and it can do more than just U-joints...it also does the pressed in ball joints...so ....seeing how I have it...I use it.
Others can install their u-joints as they see fit in whatever method they choose.
1,000,000% SUPER IMPORTANT!!!
