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I have what sounded like a bad ujoint yesterday. Cant reproduce it but still hear it at times. On inspection I noticed a clean area on half shaft ujoint. I'm thinking its getting ready to go. See pict and tell me what you think. Replace, Reinstall or Ride? Thanks
Another question. Is this enough to cause a noise/problem as it is now? Worried that yes it needs replacing but no its not causing any problems yet. BTW: No yoke play and wheel bearings are good.
That HAS to have a messed up cap.
That would probably mean messed up needle bearings.
Last time I had this happen on a Yukon it sounded almost like a rock stuck in a rotor. Just a constant grinding noise.
When I got it all out that cap just fell off and what was left of the needle bearings was comical.
But I'm open to being wrong, surprised someone else hasn't chimed in. Asking for opinions is the key in forums. Surprised someone hasn't suggested a crate motor to fix it yet
The bearing cup shouldn't have rotated like that. I would at least check the u-bolt nuts for tightness and while you're at it see of it has any play BUT you need to take the half shaft out to be able to check it with any degree of certainty. And if you have to replace it replace all six of them at the same time.
I think the bearing cap has seized on the bearings and the joint and the seized cap is rotating with the joint inside the u bolt. I would not drive it very far like that.
Last edited by CanadaGrant; Sep 20, 2017 at 04:29 PM.
Each shaft end is connected with 4 U bolts. So its just a matter of loosening 8 nuts per shaft, removing the shaft. Replacing the U-joints and reinstalling shaft. I will be replacing all U-joints on both shafts.
Anything I'm missing or tips?
Last edited by Bloodzone; Sep 20, 2017 at 08:44 PM.
Any shiny spot amongst dusty areas like an oily spots amongst dry areas makes me investigate further. The problem becomes the tendency to "well, while I'm at it I might as well..." I would replace all u-joints at once however. A Harbor Freight coupon and a hydraulic press make the job easier.
Last edited by SciVette; Sep 20, 2017 at 10:28 PM.
Each shaft end is connected with 4 U bolts. So its just a matter of loosening 8 nuts per shaft, removing the shaft. Replacing the U-joints and reinstalling shaft. I will be replacing all U-joints on both shafts.
Anything I'm missing or tips?
Incorrect.
The pic shows 2 u-bolts which means 4 nuts.
But to replace the u-joint, the other two caps are pressed into the yoke end of the half shaft or the drive shaft. Those require the clips taken out from the ends and the u-joint either driven or pressed out. Then some serious cleaning and making sure the new caps fit in precisely. Then reassemble. Stay away from u-joints with zerk fittings. Go with Spicer solids.
Why? Every u-joint used in heavy equipment have grease zerks so are you saying they're doing it wrong?
Cannot speak for heavy equipment but I would venture to say that they move at slow speed and do not have a shock to their drivetrain like a car launching from a stop with a HP engine, manual transmission or automatic trans with line-lock, low rear differential gear number (eg 4.11, 4.56) and high traction rear tires (slicks for example or wide 12" tires). U-joint becomes the weak link in that chain.
Do a search on the strength of u-joints with and without zerk fittings.
The hole for the zerk fitting has been known to weaken the body of the u-joint and cause it to crack. Especially in high torque cars. The u-joints without zerk fittings are actually more expensive.
Took car to a local shop. I've had Glodal West front upper/lower c-arms and coilovers getting dusty in my garage for a couple of months. I decided to let the pros handle it all. Hopefully I've have car back tomorrow or Monday. I would have enjoyed the experience but don't have the time to tackle it atm. Thanks again for everyones input.
'Bloodzone'
Glad to read that you have someone doing it for you.
I hope they know that they need the inner bearing flange (or something made like it) to bolt to the out U-joint flange to give strength to the outer U-joint flange so when they go and press out the U-joint..they do not break the U-joint flange.
I only use Spicer solid U-joints. No zerk or grease fittings....regardless if the car has no serious power of if it is a power house....automatic or manual transmission...it does not matter... solid U-joints is what I will use...but...to each his/her own on that one.
Not that this matters....but...
When I worked at Fruehauf trailers on the axle line.. I had to mount the tires on the wheels and did about 180+ of them a day....and not one ever had to have a wheel weight put on them...they were never balanced due to they do not spin fast enough...even at highway speeds.
Thanks DUB I'm going to printout your advice for them. Hopefully they know but it wont hurt to make sure. I'll make sure I get the solids too.
It will be next week before I get her back. Missing "Lower Bearing Shock Mount for Global West Extended Travel Control Arms". When I ordered over the phone they neglected to tell me I also need this 60.00 part. Honest mistake, but it will cost me a couple of days.
Last edited by Bloodzone; Sep 21, 2017 at 07:37 PM.
Cannot speak for heavy equipment but I would venture to say that they move at slow speed and do not have a shock to their drivetrain like a car launching from a stop with a HP engine, manual transmission or automatic trans with line-lock, low rear differential gear number (eg 4.11, 4.56) and high traction rear tires (slicks for example or wide 12" tires). U-joint becomes the weak link in that chain.
Do a search on the strength of u-joints with and without zerk fittings.
The hole for the zerk fitting has been known to weaken the body of the u-joint and cause it to crack. Especially in high torque cars. The u-joints without zerk fittings are actually more expensive.
Check it out......
The solid u-joints would be a tad stronger but if the OP is not in the habit of putting huge shock loads on his drive train the zerk type is preferred as they can last a lot longer. I have always used the zerk type in my high performance cars and I lube them every 2nd oil change. My present Spicer u-joints have about 150,000 miles on them and I would think they'll go another 150,000 miles without any problem.
The solid u-joints would be a tad stronger but if the OP is not in the habit of putting huge shock loads on his drive train the zerk type is preferred as they can last a lot longer. I have always used the zerk type in my high performance cars and I lube them every 2nd oil change. My present Spicer u-joints have about 150,000 miles on them and I would think they'll go another 150,000 miles without any problem.
I can not dispute that greaseable U-joints when PROPERLY maintained do a good job IF the owner is not pounding the car to death....because I have numerous customers that have them in their Corvettes (which I did not install) and use the Corvette as a cruiser and not at car that is trying to break the sound barrier.
BUT..I will also state I have had numerous customers that DID NOT maintain the grease in the U-joints and they failed badly. It is often forgotten as much and changing out your coolant or brake fluid.
I guess IF a person has greaseable U-joints and takes it to the track or pounds on it and has had great success...I guess I need to shut-up...but that still will not make me change my views on it. So far.... I have not yet had any U-joint I have installed come flying apart.
There are many people who take their cars, daily drivers and classics to quickie lube or places like that to have a lube, oil, and filter. Ever watch those places lube the chassis on a car? I don't think they do anymore. If you don't maintain and lube everything including the u joint, they will fail. We always used solid splicers without zerts on our race boats. When you literally sit right on top of the drive live, you don't want shrapnel flying through your suit.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Sep 24, 2017 at 12:05 PM.
Ujoint?
