Extra wide gap at top edge of door where it meets rear fender. Thinking I can add shims under rear body mount to raise rear section and close gap? Will that work? Bob 72 roadster

 

A photo will help get you a better answer....That said I'm not sure I have ever heard of shimming the body to close up a door gap....?

Brian

 

How else would u close the gap?

 

FWIW: the problem could be door alignment and not necessarily the body.

 

Hi Z,
Sometimes looking at the gap at the front of the door is an indication of what might be causing what you're seeing at the rear go the door.

Is there a gap at that location on both doors?
Have you checked to see the condition of the #3 and #4 body mounts on each side of the car?
Regards,
Alan

 

If the gap at the front of the door is too small, loosen both hinges and carefully move the door rear-ward.
If the door at the door handle end is too high, lower the striker bolt.
If the door at the handle end is too low (sagging) raise the striker bolt.
In laymans terms, your door direction adjustments are the striker & hinges.
Up / down, forward / backward, in / out (using a shim behind the hinge)

 

fwiw there is really not alot of adjustment front and back by loosening the hinges on the door..they will move ahead and back but it usually causes the door to swing too high or too low on the rear in doing so. The proper way to move door ahead and back is to adjust the hinge where it bolts to the A-pillar. That allows proper front and back adjustment to be done. You can try by adjusting the bolts on the door side, it will usually move a 1/4" no problem, but not without messing up rear heigth. If you go that route just be sure to close door slowly and test for a smooth transition over door pin. You shouldnt feel any rubbing or scraping...if you do then the heigth will be wrong and need adjustment at door. Try not to adjust door pin unless you are absolutely certain its not in the correct location, a very MINOR adjustment of pin can throw door way off...take your time...dont test any new adjustments by closing the door like you normally would, gently push door closed and let it catch at half latch and be sure its not scraping.

You access door bolts under a metal cover for the top hinge. Bottom access needs door panel removed. The A-pillar adjustments just requires octopus arms...lol. I just did my drivers door a couple days ago...bought car with door removed....my front gap at top was INSANE...like it could never be fixed, but after a couple hours of making adjustments and removing a couple shims it looks like brand new...Also...AND VERY IMPORTANT....any minor adjustments on door are going to throw your window alignment WAY OFF....if its closing good with window down, be sure to test, GENTLY FIRST TIME, with window up. Moving door backwards will cause door glass to STRIKE the body...it will require the window to be adjusted forward, at which point you will have to take door panel off anyways.

Now here is something else...shimming the body may work just fine...done it to a few cars myself, never a vette yet, but it works, but keep in mind in doing it that way is way more work and not really the correct way but i can see GM doing just that to make the body sit correct during initial assembly to take up for a misalligned body mount bracket. Good luck!!! And dont slam the door!!! Lol

 

This.

 

There are other ways than using shims...and sometimes when I work on issues like this I do not need to shim anything..I need to do body repair....so.. what we need are good clear photos of what you can see.

Getting down on one knee and taking a photo straight on so the full door gap at the front can be seen from top to bottom and then also at the rear the same way...will greatly aid us in seeing what your 'problem is.

Then if you need to take on in the specific are will be helpful also.

IF the panels are not flush...either pointing it out when you take the photo teh area where it is off would also be helpful unless you can take a good photo showing that issue also.

DUB