Quick question:

When installing the Oil Pump Cover, after replacing it's gasket and O-ring, should a little anti-seize be applied to the 6 cover bolts? Makes sense to me that it'd help in assuring an even securement of the cover to the case, but unsure of any potential harm.

Your thoughts please?

Thanks.
Steve

 

Never-Seez is intended for high heat applications such as turbocharger or exhaust manifold bolts and nuts to prevent them from seizing (hence the name Never-Seez). It contains a lot of nickel and it's similar to the "copper grease" used in the U.K.

 

Thanks folks!

I use Moly-B on spark plug threads, exhaust manifold bolt, and other hi-heat apps, yeah. But, and as long as threads are clean, I always thought it also aids in creating smoothness of thread contact, making the torque value more likely to stay accurate with time. I suppose engine oil would do the same.

Loctite. I never knew that was called for in this application. Sure, they ain't backing out with it, as you sure don't want THAT to happen. 18 ft/lbs. is all the book calls for. Interesting.

BTW, I found that cover's old O-ring hard and flat, not at all like the new one. Like it's been in there a very long time. I'm sure it's condition was causing the seep.

Steve

 

Nothing should be placed on those pump bolts. They are meant to be installed "dry"....no lube, no oil, no Loctite. Oil or anti-seize on those threads would cause the bolts to be over-stressed when specified torque is applied. Proper bolt stretch will be achieved with dry bolts and threads.

Putting Loctite on those bolts would just make them difficult to remove. Hydramatics have been in cars for 40+ years without the bolts coming loose. And the bolts were just installed dry at the factory.

Do what works...not what you think with work "better".

 

One cannot argue (disagree) with history.

Thank you sir!
Steve

 

I've never used anything on them. They aren't coming loose.

Did you change the front seal and pump bushing while you were there?

JIM

 

I see all this sorta like this:

*WARNING*
LIFE is 100% FATAL!

Steve

 

Jim,

I did not. The front oil seal was holding fine, and it was the front bushing that I found used in the spare parts box.
I'm takin a chance, I know. But too many times have I messed with a working assembly, only to F#@* it up and regret it.

Steve

 

The front seal is a must, not an option. Bushing is a good idea if you can do it. A must if its worn beyond a certain tolerance. Bushing keeps pump gears from digging out pump body. Bolt stretch on pump bolts is laughable. Make sure your pump bolt all have good sealing washers, make sure all old gasket has been removed, be careful with oil sealing rings when reinserting pump. Apply trans fluid to pump o-ring, torque sequentially to min 20ft/lbs to 25 ft/lbs.

 

Thanks Jim,

I'll pick up 6 new ones from a tranny shop tomorrow.

Because, while tracing that cover seep, I did remove the lowest cover bolt for inspection. And when I re-installed it (along with it's washer) and tightened, it started to seep fluid too. Yes, very important also.

Steve

 

Is it still out? AT LEAST put the new front seal in.

Old seals don't like being disturbed...like sliding converter in and out.

JIM

 

I missed the "TH" part of the question. All I saw was 400, oil pump, bolts. G-e-e-e-zzz

 

Noooo, wasn't meant specifically for you my friend.

Let me say, I've probably got a different outlook than most folks. Not unique or very special, just different. Being on dialysis for almost 8 years, then being a successful (so far) kidney recipient, tends to make a person not sweat the small stuff. Not that having to pull out a transmission a week after installing it is small, but in my world, it relatively is. My children, grandchildren, home, ...well, I think you guys know what I'm talkin about. Everyone in this thread AND others has helped me so very very much. I really do regret that blurb of mine coming off wrong HEADSU.P., but it is a blurb that is often forgotten.


Steve

 

It's sitting on blocks Jim, positioned under the car, with good room to work on it. I plan on pulling off the TQ, R&R each cover bolt washer (one at a time), and will replace the Front Seal with a new one. I take it the old seal can be pried off by it's convenient exterior lip. No? Installing the new one might be done with a piece of PVC pipe?
Never done it before.
Obviously.

Thanks Jim.
Steve

 

Before you drive in the new seal, pack the back side of it with Vaseline, it keeps the garter spring from popping out when the seal is hit. It also makes good lube for the seal contact with the converter.

 

You have pulled the front pump, no reason to not replace the bushing and the seal. As stated above, pack the back of the front seal with Vaseline. That also makes a great assembly lube for all things automatic transmission. New paper gasket between the pump and case, new o-ring around the pump, lube the snot out of the case with the Vaseline, and slip it back in. You can use Vaseline on the hub on the back of the pump to help it go into the forward/direct clutch drum. Make sure the line on the new o-ring is visible all the way around. They're easy to twist.
The real trick is getting the 2 halves of the front pump aligned correctly. A couple of really big hose clamps around the pump works great. You can try to just flip the pump over and set it into the case before you tighten the cover bolts, but I don't think it will work with the clutch drums installed.

 

Should have a little lip maybe. If not a screwdriver hammered through it will allow you to pop it right out! I usually just put them in with a hammer...but PCV pipe appropriately sized could work too.

JIM

 

I've used a small cold chisel and crushed the OD of the seal, then hooked them out. Got to be careful to not chop up the ID of the pump. Later model GM trans (700R-4 and 200-4R), GM put a thin bead of Loctite around the seal. But those had problems with blowing the seals out until someone went in a drilled the drainback holes a bit bigger.

 

Great tip!


Steve

 

Another great idea!

Thanks Tim.

Steve