Removing Unilite Electronic Conversion
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 1,381
Likes: 15
From: Lusby MD
Removing Unilite Electronic Conversion
I am very frustrated with my Unilite. It was installed in my 66 when I got it and it ran ok at first, but the car periodically shuts down and won't start. I'll tow it home or leave it and come back later, and sometimes it will start. I've swapped out coils, checked all grounds, and banged my head against the wall. The next obvious change is the unilite itself. I understand they're not the most reliable so maybe it's the problem all along.
I'm seriously considering going back to points. I know lots of folks will balk at that idea, but they're cheap and reliable, so why not? The question is, the breaker plate gets removed when you install a unilite, so I can't just pop points back in. Where can I get a replacement breaker plate? Do I have to disassemble the whole centrifugal advance mechanism to get the breaker plate back in?
Thanks in advance for your help.
I'm seriously considering going back to points. I know lots of folks will balk at that idea, but they're cheap and reliable, so why not? The question is, the breaker plate gets removed when you install a unilite, so I can't just pop points back in. Where can I get a replacement breaker plate? Do I have to disassemble the whole centrifugal advance mechanism to get the breaker plate back in?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 18,126
Likes: 174
From: WI
I am very frustrated with my Unilite. It was installed in my 66 when I got it and it ran ok at first, but the car periodically shuts down and won't start. I'll tow it home or leave it and come back later, and sometimes it will start. I've swapped out coils, checked all grounds, and banged my head against the wall. The next obvious change is the unilite itself. I understand they're not the most reliable so maybe it's the problem all along.
I'm seriously considering going back to points. I know lots of folks will balk at that idea, but they're cheap and reliable, so why not? The question is, the breaker plate gets removed when you install a unilite, so I can't just pop points back in. Where can I get a replacement breaker plate? Do I have to disassemble the whole centrifugal advance mechanism to get the breaker plate back in?
Thanks in advance for your help.
I'm seriously considering going back to points. I know lots of folks will balk at that idea, but they're cheap and reliable, so why not? The question is, the breaker plate gets removed when you install a unilite, so I can't just pop points back in. Where can I get a replacement breaker plate? Do I have to disassemble the whole centrifugal advance mechanism to get the breaker plate back in?
Thanks in advance for your help.
I believe the uni-light attaches to the same holes in the breaker plate as the points did
Pro
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 516
Likes: 72
From: Modesto California
I am very frustrated with my Unilite. It was installed in my 66 when I got it and it ran ok at first, but the car periodically shuts down and won't start. I'll tow it home or leave it and come back later, and sometimes it will start. I've swapped out coils, checked all grounds, and banged my head against the wall. The next obvious change is the unilite itself. I understand they're not the most reliable so maybe it's the problem all along.
I'm seriously considering going back to points. I know lots of folks will balk at that idea, but they're cheap and reliable, so why not? The question is, the breaker plate gets removed when you install a unilite, so I can't just pop points back in. Where can I get a replacement breaker plate? Do I have to disassemble the whole centrifugal advance mechanism to get the breaker plate back in?
Thanks in advance for your help.
I'm seriously considering going back to points. I know lots of folks will balk at that idea, but they're cheap and reliable, so why not? The question is, the breaker plate gets removed when you install a unilite, so I can't just pop points back in. Where can I get a replacement breaker plate? Do I have to disassemble the whole centrifugal advance mechanism to get the breaker plate back in?
Thanks in advance for your help.
When an engine mysteriously "shuts down" there are many possible causes and here are just some of them:
1. Plugged sock filter in gas tank.
2. Plugged inline filter (if one is installed)
3. Plugged filter in inlet of carburetor
4. Failing fuel pump.
5. Fuel hose sucking shut or coming apart inside.
6. Gas tank not vented.
7. Bad ignition switch.
8. Bad coil.
9. Bad electrical connection.
10. Gas tank not vented.
11. Insufficient gas in tank.
I have seen many cases in which an ignition switch is bad and after it warms up the power going to the coil simply shuts off. After the switch cools off the engine can be started again and after another 30 minutes the switch will get warm enough to shut the power off again and so on.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 1,381
Likes: 15
From: Lusby MD
It is definitely NOT a fuel system problem. Fuel is getting to the carb and into the engine. That I know, but even to make sure I tried spraying starting fluid. Still no start. Not even a cough. Finally I pulled a spark plug cable and cranked it to see an arc. Nothing. As I said, I swapped coils (three actually). All worked at one time or another and not others. A good sign of being unrelated. The only thing on your list that might still apply is the ignition switch.
I considered the hot condition source at first, but it's not that. Car has been sitting for 3 weeks and won't start. Can't get cooler than that.
Pretty sure it's distributor related and the unilite has been known to crap the bed. Seems the next logical step. OEM HEI is not an option because it won't fit under the factory ignition shielding.
I considered the hot condition source at first, but it's not that. Car has been sitting for 3 weeks and won't start. Can't get cooler than that.
Pretty sure it's distributor related and the unilite has been known to crap the bed. Seems the next logical step. OEM HEI is not an option because it won't fit under the factory ignition shielding.
Last edited by 69L71; Oct 21, 2017 at 12:21 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,370
Likes: 6,361
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
I run good quality points in every distributor I build. The UniLite system attaches to the stock breaker plate, so you don't need a new plate. You just need the hardware. Hardware is available through NAPA under part number 665-1133. Good points are part number CS-786. Condenser is part number RR-175. You'll also need a new lead wire, part number LW-72. The rubber grommet is available from Paragon Reproductions under part number 5786. I have a box full of UniLite and PerTronix conversions that I have pulled out of people's distributors - they never want them back after going to a performance points setup. 
Lars
Lars
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,317
Likes: 22
From: Marina CA
It's probably the unilite module, they have a history of doing what your symptoms are. I ran unilite's in a couple of past cars but carried a spare module because they did die out on the road.
As Lars said a good point ignition works well.
I'm running HEI in the 68 and it's problem free.
As Lars said a good point ignition works well.
I'm running HEI in the 68 and it's problem free.
Last edited by 1Fordman; Oct 21, 2017 at 05:27 PM.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 1,381
Likes: 15
From: Lusby MD
Great info. Thanks Lars!
I'll get to Napa and get these parts ordered. Of course leave it to Paragon to charge $11.50 on a $2 part. I might have to work around that....
I'll post back once I get the distributor fixed!
I'll get to Napa and get these parts ordered. Of course leave it to Paragon to charge $11.50 on a $2 part. I might have to work around that....
I'll post back once I get the distributor fixed!
Last edited by 69L71; Oct 23, 2017 at 04:37 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
When ANY electronic ignition system fails, you walk home.
When points ignitions starts to get worn or condenser starts to fail, you get some ignition 'miss' problems. But, you still can drive home. With the 2000 or so miles I put on a car during the year, that means cleaning and adjustment over the winter until ignition starts to miss. Change points and condenser and it's all good for another few years.
When points ignitions starts to get worn or condenser starts to fail, you get some ignition 'miss' problems. But, you still can drive home. With the 2000 or so miles I put on a car during the year, that means cleaning and adjustment over the winter until ignition starts to miss. Change points and condenser and it's all good for another few years.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 2,192
Likes: 956
From: Wauconda IL
When ANY electronic ignition system fails, you walk home.
When points ignitions starts to get worn or condenser starts to fail, you get some ignition 'miss' problems. But, you still can drive home. With the 2000 or so miles I put on a car during the year, that means cleaning and adjustment over the winter until ignition starts to miss. Change points and condenser and it's all good for another few years.
When points ignitions starts to get worn or condenser starts to fail, you get some ignition 'miss' problems. But, you still can drive home. With the 2000 or so miles I put on a car during the year, that means cleaning and adjustment over the winter until ignition starts to miss. Change points and condenser and it's all good for another few years.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 473
Likes: 6
From: New Port Richey FL
I 'upgraded' to a pertronix on another car (non-vette) that left me stranded many times. I replaced the pertronix at least twice (yes, i had the ballast resister to drop the voltage too).. The last time, after shamefully pushing my car out of the drive thru, I walked to the parts store that happened to be in the same parking lot that I broke down in, bought a set of points and condenser for under 12 bucks, replaced the fancy do-hicky with tried and true mechanical ignition. Best 12 bucks I ever spent and saved me the cost of a tow home and rather proud of myself at 19 and able to do such before the age of cell phones and forums. (not as long ago as you think).
For the most part, our cars are not driven that frequently, and points aren't as big of a pain as some people let on. They're simple, they're cheap, they're easy to install (screwdriver and a matchbook.... if you can find a matchbook still) and they're still readily available. I don't frown on anyone switching back... it sure beats walking.
For the most part, our cars are not driven that frequently, and points aren't as big of a pain as some people let on. They're simple, they're cheap, they're easy to install (screwdriver and a matchbook.... if you can find a matchbook still) and they're still readily available. I don't frown on anyone switching back... it sure beats walking.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 20,847
Likes: 959
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
When ANY electronic ignition system fails, you walk home.
When points ignitions starts to get worn or condenser starts to fail, you get some ignition 'miss' problems. But, you still can drive home. With the 2000 or so miles I put on a car during the year, that means cleaning and adjustment over the winter until ignition starts to miss. Change points and condenser and it's all good for another few years.
When points ignitions starts to get worn or condenser starts to fail, you get some ignition 'miss' problems. But, you still can drive home. With the 2000 or so miles I put on a car during the year, that means cleaning and adjustment over the winter until ignition starts to miss. Change points and condenser and it's all good for another few years.
I replaced that ignition module with a genuine Delco ignition module, and I haven't had to "clean and adjust" anything in the distributor (other than the distributor cap terminals) in years.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 1,381
Likes: 15
From: Lusby MD
OK Lars.
I got all the parts and have the distributor back together. Thanks for the parts list. The only one I added was a new ground wire to match my lead wire, but since my distributor was gutted I'm not sure where this goes.
Any pointers?
I got all the parts and have the distributor back together. Thanks for the parts list. The only one I added was a new ground wire to match my lead wire, but since my distributor was gutted I'm not sure where this goes.
Any pointers?
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,879
Likes: 38
From: Los Gatos CA
I jerked the MSD and Pertronix outta my 68 L36 years ago and put in a set of points.
I think I lost 100 HP, right?
All kidding aside, I somehow appreciate the originality of the points. Either will work...
It was funny going to O'Reilly and asking for points. In the old days there 5 or more brands to pick from, depending on your $$. They had exactly 1 set of points in the store.
I think I lost 100 HP, right?
All kidding aside, I somehow appreciate the originality of the points. Either will work...
It was funny going to O'Reilly and asking for points. In the old days there 5 or more brands to pick from, depending on your $$. They had exactly 1 set of points in the store.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,444
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
have you replaced the optical module. Again cheap at summit racing
I've used unilite on all kinds of applications without a problem
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,095
Likes: 4,021
From: New Braunfels Texas
At $90 a pop.....you think folks would learn.
Anyway....wire in a ballast and happy trails.
Jebby
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 20,847
Likes: 959
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
This is critical if not running a box........the Unilite opti eye is only suppose to have 7 volts going to it....wire it direct and it WILL burn out eventually. I kept these 10 deep on the wall at the speed shop years ago and would sell five every Saturday......and try to explain the ballast (which I carried as well) to the customer. About 1 in 5 would bite.
At $90 a pop.....you think folks would learn.
Anyway....wire in a ballast and happy trails.
Jebby
At $90 a pop.....you think folks would learn.
Anyway....wire in a ballast and happy trails.
Jebby
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,444
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
A ballast isn't going to provide a 7 volt supply for the optical unit. In the non-dwell periods during operation there's going to be pretty much 12 volts at the ballast. A ballast is only there to limit the peak primary current to keep from blowing up any switching transistors in the control unit.
when the first HEI's came out I switched out all my points ignitions