I need some help on replacing my front coils.

I like to get some good instruction on the best and easiest way to replace the front springs on my 69 - including the best way to separate the ball joints without any damage (if that's possible). I'd also like a lead on the best spring compressor to use and any other tools I should use?

I've done just about everything, but I've never tackled the front suspension. I'm thinking all I need to do is raise the car, disconnect the sway bar linkage, steering? drop the lower A-arm with another jack and then out with old and in with the new.

Thanks!

 

I bought my spring compressor from AutoZone for about $35. Real often you can separate ball joints by backing the nut of clear to the ends of the threads then clobbering the nut with a heavy hammer. Or you can often use a two-jaw gear puller; the two jaws going around the base of the ball joint then pushing against the end of the tapered stud.

 

Hi Nix,
Replacing the front springs isn't easy even under the best of circumstances.
There are 2 issues here.

The first is deciding what method to use to compress the spring enough to safely remove it, and then removing it.
The second is how to get the spindle to release from the two ball joint threaded shafts.

There are various spring compressors available for purchase.
The fall into 2 types:
Those that are fitted around the outside of the spring
Those that are fitted inside the spring.

Most people feel the compressor that's fitted inside the spring is most suitable for the Corvette frame/spring/a-arm configuration.

A method that many people use is a modified inside compressor. A large long bolt or threaded rod is used with the 'bottom' of the compressor tool. The rod is inserted through the shock absorber mount hole in the frame and threaded into the compressor piece. When the bolt is tightened the compressor portion pulls (compresses) the spring up, into, the spring pocket in the frame.
The spring should be compressed until it is releases the a-arms.
When the spring is compressed it has tremendous stored energy so it should be chained to the frame to keep it in place if something should go wrong.
After the a-arm are released the bolt is turned the other way to gradually release the spring so it can be safely removed

Once the spring is compressed releasing the spindle from the ball joints can be difficult. Often the surface on the ball joint shaft is 'seized' to the the spindle holes' surface.

A tool called a pickle fork is available that helps in separating the two.
Loosen the nuts on the ball joints enough so that the b loosenedall joint and spindle can move apart.
NEVER just hammer on the end of the nut… this is a sure way of damaging the threads on the ball joint shaft and the nut.

Take a look at the spindle and you'll see a oval shaped flat area on each side of the spindle where the ball joint shaft passes through.
Insert the pickle fork into the joint between the spindle and balljoint trying not to damage the seals.
Hit the end of the pickle fork and side of the spindle in sequence to get the two to separate… this can take a lot of effort.

This is all a serious job that can take time and effort so be prepared for some work, don't damage anything by just banging away, and work safely….especially with the spring.

Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

Here's the bottom part of an internal compression tool thread on to a large grade eight bolt inserted down through the shock absorber hole.
Turning the bolt pulls the tool up and compresses the spring.


Do what ever you can to protect the rubber seal and the threads on the shaft. You can imagine what 'clobbering' on the nut will do to these threads!


One of the 4 'flat' spots on the spindle that can be hit with a hammer to help release the ball joint shaft.

 

use the inside the spring compressor, Its designed for the bigger v8 springs, the outside ones are for the strut style springs which may be a smaller diameter so they dont fully engage the spring. So look at that when buying or renting. If you go with outside the spring, look for the kind that has a locking pin to hold them on the spring while you compress them You dont want them coming off under compression. Look on youtube, lots of vids about your questions

 

Others have covered the spring removal.

This tools is the best one to separate the ball joint and will NOT damage the ball joint or boot during the process...I have installed and removed the C3 ball joints repeatedly with this tool when I was cutting a coil to lower my C3...It is great:

 

On many car's spindles, next to where the B/J stud passes through it, there's a "flat spot". After loosening, but not removing the retaining nut, give this flat spot a good whack, or two, with a hammer. This will disengage the stud from the spindle.

Also, my $0.02 worth on a spring compressor.....use the "internal" style.

 

C3's do not have that "flat spot" and I did use this technique once on my C3. I would not recommend pounding on a C3 spindle to remove the ball joint. Get the tool above^^^^ easy, clean, no damage to anything....

 

Hi jbl,
I believe the spindles used on 68-72 cars have the flat spots.
This is one of the original spindles from my 71.
Regards,
Alan

 

Ball Joint Separator: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7769096
Best $25.00 I ever spent!

 

Willcox has a write up about the threaded rod method. I’ve used it many times with no issues.

Bob K.

 

Does anyone sell the inside coil compressor. I've seen the outside ones, even used one changing out a strut one time... little bit of a pucker factor I thought! I suppose I can go down to Autozone or one of those stores to see if they have one to rent.

 

Thanks! I'll have to check it out. I always seem to have trouble navigating the Willcox site. Not intuitive, for me at least.

 

Great write-up Alan! Thanks as always! Your pictures are always awesome!!

 

No need to take a chance of ruining the ball joints. The "alternate" method is easier and safer.

 

If the engine is in the car, you don't need a spring compressor. The springs can be easily and safely removed using the weight of the vehicle. I've never used a spring compressor in 40 years of swapping springs. It's a quick and easy operation. Others will tell you that you'll kill yourself without a compressor, but I'm, somehow, still alive. Drop me an e-mail for my paper on front end disassembly.

Lars
V8FastCars@msn.com

 

Glad to hear that. I was starting to think I was the only one left!

 

Alan 71's photo of the modified internal spring compressor shows how I changed the springs on my 68. It also helps carefully installing the new springs so you can get the end of the spring positioned in the shaped pocket in the A arm. I also got one of those ball joint screw-type separators with a variety of ends that work on tie rods and idler arms. "It is always a good repair if you get to buy another tool."

 

Absolutely correct!

No need to use a spring compressor. I never do and have removed the front coils repeatedly over the years for various reasons. I was afraid to say something since some of the "know it alls" will claim that all sorts of detrimental, potentially fatal outcomes could result....Thanks for demonstrating reasonableness about this issue!

Wrap a chain, cable, strong synthetic rope around the coil and frame for insurance if your are doing it for the first time....

 

Hi Lars and JB,
To down play the need for caution to someone who is asking for suggestions for removing front springs for the first time is simply irresponsible.
Regards,
Alan

 

The only thing I'd add to that, is to successfully remove the front coils without a compressor, you'll need to have the car SAFELY up on stands, a fair amount of distance. you CAN use a floor jack to support, then release the spring, but you'll need enough height in order first support the a-arm, then to FULLY drop the jack and FULLY relax the spring.

I've removed coils both with and without a compressor.