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A/C vacuum switch

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Old Oct 27, 2017 | 10:47 PM
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Default A/C vacuum switch

Maybe someone can explain if I'm on the right track or not, really confused however. So as like many others i have the problem of air only blowing through the floor vents and my selector switch not changing the vents, this is what I have tested and tried also refer to the picture I have found and linked:
Tested each lines 5,4 and 3 with a hand vacuum pump. They all hold vacuum and I can hear doors moving.
I suspected the switch, which had been taken apart and a bolt put through, so I took it apart and added a little grease to help form a seal and put it back toghether.
With it all back together I hooked the vac up to the supply line and it will hold vacuum and as I move the switch I can hear a door moving but not sure which one.

Here is the kicker, no pun intended, with the switch on vent, the door in the kick panel will not open, actually it wont open on any setting. I have triple checked the switch and there is only one way it can go together so I'm positive it is correct. but when I hooked the vac to the green line, the 2 doors worked fine.

Does anyone have incite? I would assume the switch is bad, but its so simple I don't see how it can be bad and as I move the lever around and pump the vac, it will hold vacuum. Is there anything else I can try?
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Old Oct 27, 2017 | 11:13 PM
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After many years the 7-hose rubber plug often fails to seal to the nipples on the zinc selector switch so it'll leak just enough vacuum to prevent a door from opening or closing. You can either replace the plug OR cut the hoses off one at a time and connect them directly to the nipples on the switch (which is what I ended up doing). If you elect to cut the hoses off and reconnect them make a diagram of where each color of hose goes to which number of nipple (they are marked) then keep that diagram under the console next to the switch so you'll never lose it.
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Old Oct 27, 2017 | 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 71VetteLover
After many years the 7-hose rubber plug often fails to seal to the nipples on the zinc selector switch so it'll leak just enough vacuum to prevent a door from opening or closing. You can either replace the plug OR cut the hoses off one at a time and connect them directly to the nipples on the switch (which is what I ended up doing). If you elect to cut the hoses off and reconnect them make a diagram of where each color of hose goes to which number of nipple (they are marked) then keep that diagram under the console next to the switch so you'll never lose it.
Hmm I will have to try that, the rubber is pretty discolored
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Old Oct 27, 2017 | 11:56 PM
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Since you have a Mity-Vac, just disconnect the vacuum hose on the actuator can for the kickpanel door, and use a short jumper hose to connect it directly to the Mity-Vac. See if the door actuates when vacuum is applied. If not, either the can is defective or the mechanism is rusted in a fixed position.
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Old Oct 28, 2017 | 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Since you have a Mity-Vac, just disconnect the vacuum hose on the actuator can for the kickpanel door, and use a short jumper hose to connect it directly to the Mity-Vac. See if the door actuates when vacuum is applied. If not, either the can is defective or the mechanism is rusted in a fixed position.
Yes the kick panel door opens no problem when I have the vac directly connected to it. All the other doors move and hold vacuum too.
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Old Oct 28, 2017 | 09:55 PM
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Then your problem must be:

1. a bad vacuum hose going from head to that actuator (pinched?);

2. a malfunctioning vacuum manifold gizmo on the left side of the heater/AC head:

3. a mechanical problem with rotating that manifold to the correct position;

4. no vacuum connected to that manifold outlet when moved to correct position.

Last edited by 7T1vette; Oct 28, 2017 at 09:56 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2017 | 11:55 PM
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The picture below shows not only the vacuum hoses but also the function test chart. Hopefully this will help you.

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