When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Right? There's a little wetness up higher to the back and out to the side but I think that's PS fluid blowback.
This is my only leak, I think, I'd really like to fix it.
Whad'ya know. This the 3rd one in 2 1/2 years. This one went the longest. Leaked almost from day one but slower than the first two. It's leaking like a sieve now. My luck isn't good with rebuilts. Don't know whether to chance another one, try to rebuild this one myself, or buy new.
Right? There's a little wetness up higher to the back and out to the side but I think that's PS fluid blowback.
This is my only leak, I think, I'd really like to fix it.
Whad'ya know. This the 3rd one in 2 1/2 years. This one went the longest. Leaked almost from day one but slower than the first two. It's leaking like a sieve now. My luck isn't good with rebuilts. Don't know whether to chance another one, try to rebuild this one myself, or buy new.
I went to NAPA and tried their seal kit. I used this after a I got a new unit that lasted about 5 years. I used the seal kit in my original unit. Didn't leak after the install and dry after the last 2 months.
It wont last long in the car since I am moving to a R&P system to remove all the weak / leak points.
For the cost of a seal kit it may be worth attempting.
But before this wash everything down and let dry. See if anything leaks without the car running ( let it sit over night ) then run the engine for 5-10 minutes and see if anything starts leaking. Then you will know were the leak is.
Last edited by cagotzmann; Oct 28, 2017 at 06:03 PM.
I have had 3 power steering control valves go bad. One leaked the instant I installed it. Prior to that..I never had a problem with the rebuilt ones..
I NOW install NEW and that is the only way I care to do it because I got tired of having to spend my time on these and not gettign paid for doing them over again.
ALSO...BE CAREFUL on who you buy the control valves through...because I have tried two of them. One each form two different sources...and one of them...even though the control valve worked....the problem was when I went to balance it. The amount of movement in the nut was so tight. I was scared that it would fail.
Normally..to get the piston to move in and out for the balancing procedure will take about 20 minuets on the clock....so form 12 o'clock to 4 o'clock. But on the one I was scared of was literally about one minute of movement in the nut to make the piston move in and out. So there is literally NO cushion area.
I know I can rebuild these control valves...and I have many times in the past...just like I can rebuild the calipers...but I don't...due to it is too costly for my customers to pay me more to do it that if I buy is already done. I do it for a customer who is going for judging and they want to retain the factory date coded part.
Right? There's a little wetness up higher to the back and out to the side but I think that's PS fluid blowback.
This is my only leak, I think, I'd really like to fix it.
Whad'ya know. This the 3rd one in 2 1/2 years. This one went the longest. Leaked almost from day one but slower than the first two. It's leaking like a sieve now. My luck isn't good with rebuilts. Don't know whether to chance another one, try to rebuild this one myself, or buy new.
I rebuilt my PSCV with a kit from Willcox with good results.
I also replaced the two hoses going from the valve to the cylinder.
There were no leaks for at least a year.
It still was not leaking when I installed a Borgeson box a few months ago and eliminated all of those potential leak paths.
I find that almost surgical cleanliness is recommended when working on hydraulic components. Fuzz, grit and the tiniest contaminant can cause a seal to fail.
AdvanceAuto Parts seems to have them from a couple of manufacturers, it's unclear if they're new or remanufactured. With a lifetime warranty though. I'm getting pretty good at changing these things.
Heard of A1 Cardone or Lurers Corp? Anyone have experience with products from either one?
The oil on the rod end of the cylinder tells me the hose hasn't been tightened quite enough.
I'll put a wrench on it but you don't think the leak from the control is just wicking down the hose onto the cylinder? I cleaned the whole area up so I'll see.
I went thru this once. Installed a new unit from lone star. Been on there 6 years, no leaks.
Seems like their rebuilds are descent quality, their calipers anyway. Wondering what the warranty is on Lonestar's products and whether they're available locally. I have a email out to them.
The rebuilt valves have been a crap shoot for years now. The new ones have been the way to go although some have told me they had some issue with those in the recent past as well.
For my 72 I rebuilt it about 12 years ago and I see it is weeping a little but it might be the hose connection. When I laid out the new hoses over the old originals I found the radius wasn't as large and the new hoses were slightly shorter over all. I got them installed and they worked but the point is to check them against what worked- if you still have them or are changing them out for the first time.
For my 69 I will be staying with the manual setup, really works nice and wasn't too bad in parking lot spaces, even with old 60 series tires and worn out bearings!
As mentioned above, it is IMPORTANT to dry off all the components that have any oil on them in that area, then recheck to see where the oil is actually leaking FROM. Just because it ends up on the P/S control valve doesn't mean that's where it's leaking. That is the part which is at the bottom of the 'food chain', so whatever leaks above that valve will end up getting oil.
The drips appear to be red in color. If you have clear P/S fluid in the pump, then that leakage could be from an auto transmission (if you have one). If you put transmission fluid in the P/S system, the leaks are more likely to come from the pump and/or hoses than the control valve.
As mentioned above, it is IMPORTANT to dry off all the components that have any oil on them in that area, then recheck to see where the oil is actually leaking FROM. Just because it ends up on the P/S control valve doesn't mean that's where it's leaking. That is the part which is at the bottom of the 'food chain', so whatever leaks above that valve will end up getting oil.
The drips appear to be red in color. If you have clear P/S fluid in the pump, then that leakage could be from an auto transmission (if you have one). If you put transmission fluid in the P/S system, the leaks are more likely to come from the pump and/or hoses than the control valve.
I cleaned it all up yesterday, I'll be taking another look soon, if not today.
I don't have an an auto. It's PS fluid, I don't remember the brand that I used previously that would be red. I've been topping off lately with Prestone which is clear or slightly amber.
New PSCV's from Lone Star is the only way I go now. And these DO have the correct amount of movement for the nut so the balancing will be not so touchy.
New PSCV's from Lone Star is the only way I go now. And these DO have the correct amount of movement for the nut so the balancing will be not so touchy.
Just passing along my experiences in what I have found....becasue many DIYers may not know how these control valves worked from the factory in regards to the adjustment for the balancing.
For me it is cheap insurance so I know when I install one and not having to order another rebuilt one hoping that is does not leak and have to do the job over again.
I have a completely different view on this than many DIYers who are doing it for themselves. But..in time...even a DIYer will get sick and tired of doing the same thing over and over again.
Now if a customer wants to bring in a rebuilt one they purchased and pay me over and over again to install them until they finally get one that does not leak..I am fine with that...because I am NOT eating the labor due to customer supplied defective parts.
The rebuilt valves have been a crap shoot for years now. The new ones have been the way to go although some have told me they had some issue with those in the recent past as well.
For my 72 I rebuilt it about 12 years ago and I see it is weeping a little but it might be the hose connection. When I laid out the new hoses over the old originals I found the radius wasn't as large and the new hoses were slightly shorter over all. I got them installed and they worked but the point is to check them against what worked- if you still have them or are changing them out for the first time.
For my 69 I will be staying with the manual setup, really works nice and wasn't too bad in parking lot spaces, even with old 60 series tires and worn out bearings!
Another bad PS valve
