Another oil question
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Another oil question
Thanks in advance: Just put new oil and filter in my 75 L48. Strangely, only 4 quarts came out of pan and filter combined. I had the front on jackstands so possibly there was a little left in the sump? I had been topping off as it has 84K on motor and does smoke a little on start up from bad valve stem seals but dipstick always read full. Maybe bad dipstick?
Refilled with Pennzoil dino high mileage as all the other high mileage oils at the local store were synthetic. Put in 4 quarts along with an STP viscosity modifier with ZDDP additive.
A couple of observations and questions: The STP additive was as thick as honey, has anyone used it before?
Dipstick now reads a little more than full although I only put in 4.5 quarts between new oil and additive.
Oil pressure is spot on at just around 40psi revving it a little and around 30psi at soft idle after running for 5 minutes both a little higher than before the change.
Do sump and filter require 5 full quarts?
Total cost was $31 for 5 quarts plus $7 for additive. I have used Brad Penn in the past but its around $7 a quart. Wondering if I should have just stayedd the course as the cost is basically the same.
#2
Le Mans Master
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2018 C3 of Year Finalist
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Valvoline VR-1 dino. Order it at O'Reilly or AutoZone (can't remember which). No additional additives required.
Who cares about the price. It's only 5 or 6 quarts.
Who cares about the price. It's only 5 or 6 quarts.
#3
Race Director
you asked, so here is what i think...buy valvoline vr1 in what ever viscosity suits your mood....stay away from additives. you can not conjure up a better mix then the oil engineers
for the quantity of oil the newer oil filters are smaller then the old ones when the cars were made so they take less oil. 4.5 quarts doesnt sound too far off
for the quantity of oil the newer oil filters are smaller then the old ones when the cars were made so they take less oil. 4.5 quarts doesnt sound too far off
#4
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
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Royal Canadian Navy
My advice. Buy any brand of oil that is sae/api approved that contains a proper amount of zddp for your engine. Synthetic or dino work fine so your choice. Your engine will not blow up because of the type of oil you use as long as its the correct oil for your conditions. Don't overthink brands of oil. Think of the oil formula and if it has the required additives. I have three vehicles and five different brands of oil, synthetic and dino, sitting on my shelf waiting to be used. Again, don't overthink oil.
#5
Le Mans Master
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My advice. Buy any brand of oil that is sae/api approved that contains a proper amount of zddp for your engine. Synthetic or dino work fine so your choice. Your engine will not blow up because of the type of oil you use as long as its the correct oil for your conditions. Don't overthink brands of oil. Think of the oil formula and if it has the required additives. I have three vehicles and five different brands of oil, synthetic and dino, sitting on my shelf waiting to be used. Again, don't overthink oil.
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
I appreciate all the responses to a topic that has been beaten to death. I didnt pose my original post as well as I could have. I should ha e just asked if anyone had used the additive I used and what experience they may have had along with the issue related to capacity. Been changing oil for 40 years in cars, trucks and tractors but have only been aware of the zinc issue over the last 5. Numbers matching motor that Im trying to keep as healthy as possible until forced into the expense of a rebuild. Glad to hear about the VR1 dino, looks like my local walmart carries it for far less than the Brad Penn! Now I just have to track down the Wix filters I am partial to...