Front Wheel Bearing tightness / Checking Technique
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Front Wheel Bearing tightness / Checking Technique
Just checking on the technique I am using to tighten the front wheel bearings after new bearings and races installed on my 1981.
- Tightened castle nut to 12 ft lbs while spinning rotor
- Loosen nut and re-tighten by hand until one of the cotter pin holes line up, back off to next castle slot and cotter pin hole if necessary
- Check bearing play with dial indicator contacting top of rotor
- Pull and Push the upper and lower parts of the rotor and note clearance.
By completing the above I get .003 of play. If I back off one more slot and the next cotter pin hole I get .008 and feel looseness or hear a little clicking. Reading over the shop manual I should set the bearings .001 to .005.
Just want to make sure the technique I am using is correct by pushing and pulling the top and bottom of the rotor and note the end play.
Thanks
- Tightened castle nut to 12 ft lbs while spinning rotor
- Loosen nut and re-tighten by hand until one of the cotter pin holes line up, back off to next castle slot and cotter pin hole if necessary
- Check bearing play with dial indicator contacting top of rotor
- Pull and Push the upper and lower parts of the rotor and note clearance.
By completing the above I get .003 of play. If I back off one more slot and the next cotter pin hole I get .008 and feel looseness or hear a little clicking. Reading over the shop manual I should set the bearings .001 to .005.
Just want to make sure the technique I am using is correct by pushing and pulling the top and bottom of the rotor and note the end play.
Thanks
#2
Tech Contributor
Sounds about right, although I never use a TW on this setup. I tighten and loosen a few times, then snug by finger and back off one flat and check it. If too loose you can carefully remove some metal from the back of the nut to change the index position, only a couple of thou.
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Reaper19 (11-13-2017)
#3
I have always gone about 25 ft/lbs then loose then finger tight. If the cotter pin doesn't line up with a hole I back the nut off until it does. Tapered roller bearings that use grease to lubricate them require a tiny bit of clearance.
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Reaper19 (11-14-2017)
#4
Race Director
With the bearing process covered and answered....
And only responding to possible missing pieces to a puzzle.
IF the rotor has been replaced....or resurfaced on a brake lathe...OR the rivets have been drilled out and the rotor NOT marked so it goes back on in its original position...
I would now check the rotor run-out. ESPECIALLY if it has lipped seal calipers ...and I would do it even if it had the O-ring design.
DUB
And only responding to possible missing pieces to a puzzle.
IF the rotor has been replaced....or resurfaced on a brake lathe...OR the rivets have been drilled out and the rotor NOT marked so it goes back on in its original position...
I would now check the rotor run-out. ESPECIALLY if it has lipped seal calipers ...and I would do it even if it had the O-ring design.
DUB
The following users liked this post:
Reaper19 (11-14-2017)
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
With the bearing process covered and answered....
And only responding to possible missing pieces to a puzzle.
IF the rotor has been replaced....or resurfaced on a brake lathe...OR the rivets have been drilled out and the rotor NOT marked so it goes back on in its original position...
I would now check the rotor run-out. ESPECIALLY if it has lipped seal calipers ...and I would do it even if it had the O-ring design.
DUB
And only responding to possible missing pieces to a puzzle.
IF the rotor has been replaced....or resurfaced on a brake lathe...OR the rivets have been drilled out and the rotor NOT marked so it goes back on in its original position...
I would now check the rotor run-out. ESPECIALLY if it has lipped seal calipers ...and I would do it even if it had the O-ring design.
DUB
I appreciate everyone's direction on these very important front wheel setup steps.
Reaper19
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DUB (11-14-2017)
#6
Race Director
Then more 'true' you can get them...the better.
Glad that you took the time to do both ...(1) know more about how your Corvette works ....and.... (2) actually doing something that some people would not worry about or take the time to correct.
DUB