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Front Wheel Bearing tightness / Checking Technique

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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 12:22 PM
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Default Front Wheel Bearing tightness / Checking Technique

Just checking on the technique I am using to tighten the front wheel bearings after new bearings and races installed on my 1981.

- Tightened castle nut to 12 ft lbs while spinning rotor
- Loosen nut and re-tighten by hand until one of the cotter pin holes line up, back off to next castle slot and cotter pin hole if necessary
- Check bearing play with dial indicator contacting top of rotor
- Pull and Push the upper and lower parts of the rotor and note clearance.

By completing the above I get .003 of play. If I back off one more slot and the next cotter pin hole I get .008 and feel looseness or hear a little clicking. Reading over the shop manual I should set the bearings .001 to .005.

Just want to make sure the technique I am using is correct by pushing and pulling the top and bottom of the rotor and note the end play.

Thanks
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 12:32 PM
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Sounds about right, although I never use a TW on this setup. I tighten and loosen a few times, then snug by finger and back off one flat and check it. If too loose you can carefully remove some metal from the back of the nut to change the index position, only a couple of thou.
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 02:01 PM
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I have always gone about 25 ft/lbs then loose then finger tight. If the cotter pin doesn't line up with a hole I back the nut off until it does. Tapered roller bearings that use grease to lubricate them require a tiny bit of clearance.
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 06:42 PM
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With the bearing process covered and answered....

And only responding to possible missing pieces to a puzzle.

IF the rotor has been replaced....or resurfaced on a brake lathe...OR the rivets have been drilled out and the rotor NOT marked so it goes back on in its original position...

I would now check the rotor run-out. ESPECIALLY if it has lipped seal calipers ...and I would do it even if it had the O-ring design.

DUB
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Old Nov 14, 2017 | 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by DUB
With the bearing process covered and answered....

And only responding to possible missing pieces to a puzzle.

IF the rotor has been replaced....or resurfaced on a brake lathe...OR the rivets have been drilled out and the rotor NOT marked so it goes back on in its original position...

I would now check the rotor run-out. ESPECIALLY if it has lipped seal calipers ...and I would do it even if it had the O-ring design.

DUB
Thanks DUB. I have checked the runout and have the right side at .002 and left side at .003. The right side required no shims, but the left required some shim correction.

I appreciate everyone's direction on these very important front wheel setup steps.

Reaper19
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Old Nov 14, 2017 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Reaper19
Thanks DUB. I have checked the runout and have the right side at .002 and left side at .003. The right side required no shims, but the left required some shim correction.

I appreciate everyone's direction on these very important front wheel setup steps.

Reaper19


Then more 'true' you can get them...the better.

Glad that you took the time to do both ...(1) know more about how your Corvette works ....and.... (2) actually doing something that some people would not worry about or take the time to correct.

DUB
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