Clock pwr. wire bypass
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 569
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From: Durham NC
Clock pwr. wire bypass
Found my batt. drain....crtsy./clock circuit. The crtsy. lights work properly so I assume the dead clock is my culprit.
Can I just cut the wire to the clock and if so where is the easiest spot to do this and which wire is it? I have the side cover off console and see a large wire loom coming down towards shifter that seems like it prolly has the gauge cluster wires in it...(wires are wrapped in black tape,about 20 of 'em).
Also. cigar lighter not working...any help for that please?
Is the 30amp breaker in fuse panel only for the windows(pwr. acccsy.)?
Thank you for any help folks!
Can I just cut the wire to the clock and if so where is the easiest spot to do this and which wire is it? I have the side cover off console and see a large wire loom coming down towards shifter that seems like it prolly has the gauge cluster wires in it...(wires are wrapped in black tape,about 20 of 'em).
Also. cigar lighter not working...any help for that please?
Is the 30amp breaker in fuse panel only for the windows(pwr. acccsy.)?
Thank you for any help folks!
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 57
Likes: 7
From: Oldenburg/Ohmstede Ghetto Germany
Hi Chigago Bob,the cigar lighter wire is Orange,the clockwire is on my 76 also Orange the 77 has a printed circuit for the cluster gauge,so isolate the plus pin on your clock with tape for a test run-greets Jürgen
Last edited by Truckdriver816; Nov 14, 2017 at 04:00 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 789
Likes: 129
From: Los Banos CA
It looks like the clock wire on your 77 will be orange. These two links should help:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...g-diagram.html
http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/c...el-gauge-info/
I think the diagram of the circuit board is pictured from the backside, and the connector diagram is viewed as sitting in the drivers seat.
To verify before cutting the wire, maybe just unplug the connector to the center cluster?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...g-diagram.html
http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/c...el-gauge-info/
I think the diagram of the circuit board is pictured from the backside, and the connector diagram is viewed as sitting in the drivers seat.
To verify before cutting the wire, maybe just unplug the connector to the center cluster?
Last edited by bradleyb66; Nov 14, 2017 at 06:18 PM. Reason: extra info
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Durham NC
My certesy lights go out when door shut but test light still shows a drain....albeit test light is very dim...I'll put a meter on it and see just how much the draw is.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
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From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Thank you Tim....yes, the clock has quit running and therefor why I thought maybe cause for batt. drain. Are you saying that if it quits working then it no longer draws current?
My certesy lights go out when door shut but test light still shows a drain....albeit test light is very dim...I'll put a meter on it and see just how much the draw is.
My certesy lights go out when door shut but test light still shows a drain....albeit test light is very dim...I'll put a meter on it and see just how much the draw is.
Do you have an aftermarket radio with a memory? Another point that could cause a draw? Disconnect the white plug from the alternator too- Not real uncommon for the regulator to cause a draw too.
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Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Durham NC
Sorry, maybe I haven't been very clear....I have already pulled the fuse to crtsy/clock...that is how I found my drain. With fuse back in the crtsy. lights do go out when door closed....but test light stays on(drain)....sooooo, I thought maybe the clock(since it is not moving)was the culprit for still causing the draw.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Actually, if it is a Borg clock (electro-mechanical unit), it could fail from having carbon build-up on the contact points in the rewind mechanism. When carbon gets on the points, the resistance goes up. Eventually, the resistance gets so much that the solenoid will no longer fire. But, at the end of the 'last' rewind, the points would be in contact and passing current...just not enough to fire the solenoid. However, it would be plenty of current to drain the battery, and it would be ON constantly.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Nov 15, 2017 at 01:33 AM.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Durham NC
Actually, if it is a Borg clock (electro-mechanical unit), it could fail from having carbon build-up on the contact points in the rewind mechanism. When carbon gets on the points, the resistance goes up. Eventually, the resistance gets so much that the solenoid will no longer fire. But, at the end of the 'last' rewind, the points would be in contact and passing current...just not enough to fire the solenoid. However, it would be plenty of current to drain the battery, and it would be ON constantly.
Sure wish I knew which wire to cut....guess I'll jus bite the bullet and pull the cluster to install a quartz clock(or maybe clean/oil existing one).
Racer
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 255
Likes: 24
From: Leander Texas
Fix it - get a quartz conversion - that is what I am doing this weekend on my 79 - cutting factory loom wires should be your last resort!!!
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From: Durham NC