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I have a 1969 with a manual. There seems to be a lot of slop in the shift stick. I inspected the car from underneath and, from what I can glimpse, the shifting mechanism looks fine - or at least I cannot tell for sure.
Indeed, it seems that the assembly bolts to the trans somehow... and that bolt is loose ! Is that a common occurrence?
I presume (and I need help here) that to access that bolt, or set of bolts, I need to do that from above and remove sifter console top plate?
If it's a stock shifter it's bolted to a bracket that bolts to the transmission cross-member.
If its got a lot of slack then it may need to be rebuilt. Kits are available. The shifter will come out from the bottom without taking the center console plate off. Just unscrew the shifter **** and pull out the reverse lockout T. Might need a helper to guide it back up through the weather rubber seal and the gate leather boot.
To get the shifter setup properly you'll need to make the alignment jig. This will hold the shifter in place while you adjust the rods.
Top tip - If you want short throw there should be two holes in the levers that the shifter rods connect to (if equipped). Use the holes closest to where the levers connect to the transmissions.
My home made alignment jig. You can see the bracket the shifter bolts to, it's black.
I know other members have the dimensions for the tool. I just made one that would fit when I had my shifter out years ago.
Shifter bracket without the shifter installed:
I'll scan you the assembly instruction manual (AIM) page of the shifter bracket mount but someone will probably beat me to it. If you don't have the AIM I highly recommend it.
Here is the tool THANKS WILLCOX!!!!!!!!
Last edited by theandies; Nov 29, 2017 at 05:54 AM.
You certainly can do what others have posted, but you need to be realistic about this mechanism. These 4-speeds are not like modern manual transmissions and shifter mechanisms, even when fully shimmed they have tons of free-play, clunky, crude and sloppy. That's what I love about it! Its not "tight" shifter like people have come to expect on modern vehicles, but it works perfectly fine for getting through the gears.
Awesomeness ! Thanks, Gents, for all the precious feedback. Iwasme... agreed. First I plan to tighten the brackets. (Strange that it seems to be loose.) I may or may not rebuild because I eventually want to toss in an TKO or similar. Right now, it is a chore to get in and out of reverse. If tightening the bracket cleans things up, I will leave it as is...
Hi DC,
When shifting into reverse there are 2 things to remember:
First, be certain you're pulling all the way UP on the 't' to insure the 'reverse gate'in the shifter is open.
Second, remember that when you shift into reverse you're also moving the reverse lock cable (even if you'r not going to be shutting the engine off).
If the cable isn't sliding freely in the sheath it will feel as though it takes extra effort to get the transmission into reverse. This is why it's important to have the shifter adjusted properly using the alignment tool.
Regards,
Alan
Hi DC,
When shifting into reverse there are 2 things to remember:
First, be certain you're pulling all the way UP on the 't' to insure the 'reverse gate'in the shifter is open.
Second, remember that when you shift into reverse you're also moving the reverse lock cable (even if you'r not going to be shutting the engine off).
If the cable isn't sliding freely in the sheath it will feel as though it takes extra effort to get the transmission into reverse. This is why it's important to have the shifter adjusted properly using the alignment tool.
Regards,
Alan
I have rebuilt my shifter mechanism with a kit I got from Zip Corvettes. They also sell the alignment tool which worked great for me. Part of the problem was getting gears in and out and the whole mechanism needed to be rebuilt and aligned.
I have to agree that this mechanism is archaic and will not match the feel of a modern hydraulic manual transmission. However, once you get it tuned and get used to it, you'll be happy.
Shifter slop
rebuild may well be the next step. Thanks for the tip on the alignment tool. I will document if I do.
