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Rust under windshield - options?

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Old Dec 12, 2017 | 08:26 PM
  #21  
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excellent job !
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Old Dec 12, 2017 | 08:44 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by PHIL 68
you need to read your second last sentence
could you do me a favor and remove the quote and I'll make the needed correction... I've been looking at this for over an hour trying to figure it out... and my daughter just hit me with an elbow and said... Dad.... read it again...

Yeah it flew by spell check too...
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Old Dec 12, 2017 | 10:08 PM
  #23  
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
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Originally Posted by bazza77
yeah , I have only done one of this type of repair ,but it wasn't as bad as this one of Fubba's but I think his repairer of choice would be looking at removing the firewall for proper access , have you guys ever done a complete firewall removal with the front clip still attached ? Is it even possible ?
Well the first thing that needs to be done is to tear into it... and access the damage. Start with the windshield removal and all three of the dash pads (which he has out), then move forward.

Making a determination to remove the firewall and the front end at this point would be premature until you dug deeper.

However, I do think either the front end will need to come off the car to evaluate the rest of the cage condition. He's going to need someone that is well experienced or that has done this type of job before if it's to be done correctly, or do it himself.

I'm not saying his shop would not do it correctly, but some shops will cut corners and I'm sure you guys are well aware of this... Pictures after the windshield is removed would go a long way in evaluation as well as pictures from behind the kick panels.

The car I used in my write up was my own personal car that has not seen the road since the early 1980's and while I felt shocked that the frame was in this condition part of me wasn't surprised.

I'm pretty sure I have a complete A pillar left, right and header but it's from a 1979 which is a bit different on the lower windshield corners. The A pillars left and right are the same from 68-82. The header is the same, the pillars are the same and as well as the upper corners.

As I mentioned earlier (before I went vulgar ) the difference is the lower corners which can be modified to work if needed.

Jeff's repair work is an excellent example of what one can do if they put their mind to it. And from what I can tell from his pictures he whipped out a nice spot welder instead of trying to tig or mig it.

My write up about doing the header goes in to some detail about the use of a spot welder vs. welding. When you use a spot welder the welder will pull the parts into place when it spots in... A regular welder won't and will require working the parts to make them fit better. (if you use new parts)...

If using repair panels and trying to weld sections in place, we'll to me that's not something I like to do. I'd rather have the right part, spot weld it in place just like the factory did. It's less work, results in a better job and less clean up of material.

IMHO (and still embarrassed about my vulgar typo lol )

Willcox
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Old Dec 12, 2017 | 10:24 PM
  #24  
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I thought you were just really upset with the rusty old girl.

Brian
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Old Dec 12, 2017 | 10:32 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Wee
I thought you were just really upset with the rusty old girl.

Brian
yeah.. I kept reading and missing it, reading and missing it... trying to figure out what I said wrong..

My syntax error on is vs. are was all I saw and at first kind of perturbed me... lol.. I was miffed to say the least.. so bone head me gets his over educated daughter to read it.... that cost me and will probably cost me for a few days.......

Ernie
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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 07:42 AM
  #26  
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Took care of post not a big deal you are more than helpful on this site. Phil
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Old Dec 20, 2017 | 08:53 PM
  #27  
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Fubba....Did you ever get any pics of the areas behind the kick panels....?

Brian
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