What is Thickness of Original Windshield Glass?
12-21-2017, 12:03 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
What is Thickness of Original Windshield Glass?
Hi Everyone,
I've read many threads discussing the precautions needing to be taken for a good fit when installing new windshield glass, due to the reduced thickness of new glass.
My original ('70) LOF windshield is long gone, but I was wondering if anyone has measured the thickness of an original, or if anyone has one removed, such that it can be measured. Thanks.
Wishing you and your families a very Merry Christmas.
Regards,
Joe
I've read many threads discussing the precautions needing to be taken for a good fit when installing new windshield glass, due to the reduced thickness of new glass.
My original ('70) LOF windshield is long gone, but I was wondering if anyone has measured the thickness of an original, or if anyone has one removed, such that it can be measured. Thanks.
Wishing you and your families a very Merry Christmas.
Regards,
Joe
12-21-2017, 12:24 PM
#2
Team Owner
I don't think it is the thickness just the way the original windshields were installed. They were glued down with a rope style sealant. Today's windshields are glued down with a glue dispensed from a calk gun type device and the glue is a lot stronger so it can be thinner.
When I had my windshield replaced about 10 years ago I was lucky the installer was a muscle car guy and we discussed this while he installed my new windshield. He put a thicker than normal bead so my SS trim would fit without gaps. I'll take a picture and post it if I can get a good shot of the bead he laid down.
FYI - Most windshields on modern cars actually contribute to structural stiffness. This is why they use high strength adhesives.
When I had my windshield replaced about 10 years ago I was lucky the installer was a muscle car guy and we discussed this while he installed my new windshield. He put a thicker than normal bead so my SS trim would fit without gaps. I'll take a picture and post it if I can get a good shot of the bead he laid down.
FYI - Most windshields on modern cars actually contribute to structural stiffness. This is why they use high strength adhesives.
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70Yellowbird (12-21-2017)
12-21-2017, 12:39 PM
#3
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Hi 70,
The original windshield glass on my 71 measures 9/32".
Originally a foam rubber 'damming strip' was attached to the perimeter of the glass before the the 'pump-able' 'thiokol' sealer was applied. The damming strip spaced the glass off the windshield frame so that the stainless trim could be installed snugly against the surface of the glass.
Regards,
Alan
This was measured using a caliper.... but not a overly expensive/accurate/precise one.
The original windshield glass on my 71 measures 9/32".
Originally a foam rubber 'damming strip' was attached to the perimeter of the glass before the the 'pump-able' 'thiokol' sealer was applied. The damming strip spaced the glass off the windshield frame so that the stainless trim could be installed snugly against the surface of the glass.
Regards,
Alan
This was measured using a caliper.... but not a overly expensive/accurate/precise one.
Last edited by Alan 71; 12-22-2017 at 07:58 AM.
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70Yellowbird (12-21-2017)
12-21-2017, 06:25 PM
#4
Race Director
ACTUALLY the 'rope' sealant or what is also known as butyl tape was NEVER used on the front windshield.
Butyl tape was used for the rear back glass on the C3's with the vertical back glass.
Actually the original windshields were a lot thick than the ones of today. I do not know how thick they actually were....other than what Alan has provided in this response.
DUB
Butyl tape was used for the rear back glass on the C3's with the vertical back glass.
Actually the original windshields were a lot thick than the ones of today. I do not know how thick they actually were....other than what Alan has provided in this response.
DUB
12-22-2017, 07:43 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
ACTUALLY the 'rope' sealant or what is also known as butyl tape was NEVER used on the front windshield.
Butyl tape was used for the rear back glass on the C3's with the vertical back glass.
Actually the original windshields were a lot thick than the ones of today. I do not know how thick they actually were....other than what Alan has provided in this response.
DUB
Butyl tape was used for the rear back glass on the C3's with the vertical back glass.
Actually the original windshields were a lot thick than the ones of today. I do not know how thick they actually were....other than what Alan has provided in this response.
DUB
12-22-2017, 09:49 AM
#6
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Hi Len,
No it doesn't.
The proper way too install the windshield is to put it in place 'dry' and reinstall the stainless trim.
It's that process that will alert you as to how far from the windshield frame the windshield needs to be spaced.
You then take the trim and windshield back off, install some 'spacers' and then install the windshield using the type of sealer you've decided to use.
Obviously this is a lot of extra work, but it's the way to ensure a nice fit between the stainless trim and the surface of the glass.
Regards,
Alan
No it doesn't.
The proper way too install the windshield is to put it in place 'dry' and reinstall the stainless trim.
It's that process that will alert you as to how far from the windshield frame the windshield needs to be spaced.
You then take the trim and windshield back off, install some 'spacers' and then install the windshield using the type of sealer you've decided to use.
Obviously this is a lot of extra work, but it's the way to ensure a nice fit between the stainless trim and the surface of the glass.
Regards,
Alan
12-23-2017, 06:55 PM
#7
Race Director
Hi Len,
No it doesn't.
The proper way too install the windshield is to put it in place 'dry' and reinstall the stainless trim.
It's that process that will alert you as to how far from the windshield frame the windshield needs to be spaced.
You then take the trim and windshield back off, install some 'spacers' and then install the windshield using the type of sealer you've decided to use.
Obviously this is a lot of extra work, but it's the way to ensure a nice fit between the stainless trim and the surface of the glass.
Regards,
Alan
No it doesn't.
The proper way too install the windshield is to put it in place 'dry' and reinstall the stainless trim.
It's that process that will alert you as to how far from the windshield frame the windshield needs to be spaced.
You then take the trim and windshield back off, install some 'spacers' and then install the windshield using the type of sealer you've decided to use.
Obviously this is a lot of extra work, but it's the way to ensure a nice fit between the stainless trim and the surface of the glass.
Regards,
Alan
You get the lower stops correct and you have 'things' basically correct.
I have the urethane primers and all that ready to go and apply the urethane to the windshield by cutting the tip if the tube in a long 'V' to allow the urethane to be applied to the windshield itself and actually stand up and the urethane is about an inch + high. This is because the viscosity of the urethane is thick enough to support itself.
Set the glass in place that the 'V' compresses to a nice bead and when it is lightly put in place. I begin to put on the moldings and IF I need to raise up one of the outer corners....I have my rubber spacers ready to cut and install to raise that corner of the windshield so it fits perfectly.
Depending on how fast the urethane sets up...will determine on how FAST you have to work on this.
MAKE SURE that if the pinch weld are of the frame has problems in it that you FOLLOW the instructions of what the company who makes your urethrae wants you to do to the frame. Many urethane companies want you to apply THEIR primer and not worry about priming it with something else first..
Keep in mind that SHEAR can occur. With that... it is NOT ADVISED that you paint the area on the pinch weld where the urethane is applied.. Even priming it excessively can be dangerous due to film thickness and that is where you can have a shear problem.
DUB