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Retaining cotter pin for rear alignment shims

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Old 12-26-2017, 02:31 AM
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BlackRocket
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Default Retaining cotter pin for rear alignment shims

I cannot seem to get the large 3" cotter pin through the holes that are in the rear frame box. It appears that one side doesn't even have a hole drilled.

Does anyone know if the small holes were drilled by the factory?

Also, is there a better way to secure these alignment shims?

I was thinking a short 8-32 ss bolt with fender washer separately on each side may be better?

Thanks!
Old 12-26-2017, 05:33 AM
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Rescue Rogers
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I used saftey wire. Its cheap and easy and is easily replaced if it starts to look crappy. And I dont have to worry about it falling out.
Old 12-26-2017, 07:09 AM
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Alan 71
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Hi BR,
Depending on the year of the frame it may not have originally had the holes drilled for the alignment cotter pin.
I'd think though if it has one... it would have had 2.
The change to the use of the cotter pin had occurred by the Fall of 1970.
This is a typical location for the cotter pin.
Regards,
Alan

Old 12-26-2017, 10:07 AM
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Street Rat
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Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
I used saftey wire. Its cheap and easy and is easily replaced if it starts to look crappy. And I dont have to worry about it falling out.
Never even thought of that.

It works.
Old 12-26-2017, 11:32 AM
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JoeMinnesota
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My 1970 (mid-year build) does not have the cotter pin or holes.
Old 12-26-2017, 12:39 PM
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BlackRocket
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So, if the factory did not have the holes...do the shims stay in place just by dropping down below the lower lip of the box?

Thanks again!
Old 12-26-2017, 01:01 PM
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Faster Rat
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Originally Posted by BlackRocket
So, if the factory did not have the holes...do the shims stay in place just by dropping down below the lower lip of the box?

Thanks again!

Mine do now...since putting in the correct shims that have not been altered by Bubba's Git Her Dun Kwik alignment shop.
Old 12-26-2017, 02:21 PM
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JoeMinnesota
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Originally Posted by BlackRocket
So, if the factory did not have the holes...do the shims stay in place just by dropping down below the lower lip of the box?

Thanks again!
Yep - Mine should look like Faster Rat's (and WILL when I'm done), but right now 1/2 the shims stick out the top of the opening. I am cutting out the original trailing arms right now to replace with new offset arms.
Old 12-29-2017, 03:50 PM
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00fxd
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I used to rely on the shims resting "below grade" until I noticed them working their way up at one point. They were fine for a long time and then ..... So I drilled cotter pin holes in my '65.
Old 12-29-2017, 07:19 PM
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Crimson Thunder
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Originally Posted by JoeMinnesota
My 1970 (mid-year build) does not have the cotter pin or holes.
That's strange, my March built 1970 has them.
Old 12-29-2017, 08:20 PM
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edk136
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Originally Posted by Crimson Thunder
That's strange, my March built 1970 has them.
So does my February built 1970.
Old 12-29-2017, 11:26 PM
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JoeMinnesota
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Originally Posted by JoeMinnesota
My 1970 (mid-year build) does not have the cotter pin or holes.
Correction - My 70 has factory holes (which will be utilized with my trailing arm swap) and just weren't being used. The shims were on the pivot bolt and hanging out the top. Just removed trailing arms after 47 years. What a gawdawful job! A Sawzall was the key and still a lot of work.

Last edited by JoeMinnesota; 12-29-2017 at 11:27 PM.
Old 12-29-2017, 11:54 PM
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Barry's70LT1
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My '70 (June Build) has the cotter pin holes, however the original shims had "captured" holes, not slots, so no cotter pin from factory. When I did the trailing arm rebuild a few years ago, I used the slotted shims and the cotter pins.

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