Retaining cotter pin for rear alignment shims
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Retaining cotter pin for rear alignment shims
I cannot seem to get the large 3" cotter pin through the holes that are in the rear frame box. It appears that one side doesn't even have a hole drilled.
Does anyone know if the small holes were drilled by the factory?
Also, is there a better way to secure these alignment shims?
I was thinking a short 8-32 ss bolt with fender washer separately on each side may be better?
Thanks!
Does anyone know if the small holes were drilled by the factory?
Also, is there a better way to secure these alignment shims?
I was thinking a short 8-32 ss bolt with fender washer separately on each side may be better?
Thanks!
#2
Dementer sole survivor
Member Since: Oct 2015
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2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
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I used saftey wire. Its cheap and easy and is easily replaced if it starts to look crappy. And I dont have to worry about it falling out.
#3
Team Owner
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Hi BR,
Depending on the year of the frame it may not have originally had the holes drilled for the alignment cotter pin.
I'd think though if it has one... it would have had 2.
The change to the use of the cotter pin had occurred by the Fall of 1970.
This is a typical location for the cotter pin.
Regards,
Alan
Depending on the year of the frame it may not have originally had the holes drilled for the alignment cotter pin.
I'd think though if it has one... it would have had 2.
The change to the use of the cotter pin had occurred by the Fall of 1970.
This is a typical location for the cotter pin.
Regards,
Alan
#7
#8
Yep - Mine should look like Faster Rat's (and WILL when I'm done), but right now 1/2 the shims stick out the top of the opening. I am cutting out the original trailing arms right now to replace with new offset arms.
#9
Melting Slicks
I used to rely on the shims resting "below grade" until I noticed them working their way up at one point. They were fine for a long time and then ..... So I drilled cotter pin holes in my '65.
#12
Correction - My 70 has factory holes (which will be utilized with my trailing arm swap) and just weren't being used. The shims were on the pivot bolt and hanging out the top. Just removed trailing arms after 47 years. What a gawdawful job! A Sawzall was the key and still a lot of work.
Last edited by JoeMinnesota; 12-29-2017 at 11:27 PM.
#13
Drifting
Member Since: Oct 2001
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My '70 (June Build) has the cotter pin holes, however the original shims had "captured" holes, not slots, so no cotter pin from factory. When I did the trailing arm rebuild a few years ago, I used the slotted shims and the cotter pins.