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Old Jan 22, 2018 | 11:52 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by theandies
You're actually going to run your outer u-joint bolts without some sort of locking mechanism like french locks or lock washers?
Just saying.........
I’ve been undoing all the bubba on this car for the last 8 months. There were no lock washers before so I didn’t know they were suppose to be there. Great catch and an easy fix. Feel free to mention anything else you may see. I should probably look at schematics more to see what’s suppose to actually be there.
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Old Feb 1, 2018 | 02:44 PM
  #42  
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I wanted to follow up on this thread. I finally went on a good shakedown ride today, including some roads that weren't in the best shape. The upper heim joint never made contact with the frame bump stop mount. My setup is as follows:
  • DragVette 6 link - upper and lower links parallel to halfshafts
  • Rear end c-clips removed
  • VBP 360 composite monoleaf spring (380 actual spring rate)
  • Viking Crusader Double Adjustable Shocks ('AP' valving) - set almost full soft today (3 clicks compression, 0 clicks rebound)
  • 335-30-18 BFG Rival S tires
  • Halfshafts parallel to ground at ride height
  • Rear camber set to .5 degrees negative at ride height
  • 26.5" ride height fender to ground in the rear

I'm not saying it won't ever hit, because it clearly has the potential to hit. But I don't think it's going to be an issue. I'm going to take it to a local autocross in the next month or two. Then, I might start playing with the 6 link geometry a bit for some camber gain.

Last edited by Neil B; Feb 1, 2018 at 02:47 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2018 | 03:35 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Neil B

I wanted to follow up on this thread. I finally went on a good shakedown ride today, including some roads that weren't in the best shape. The upper heim joint never made contact with the frame bump stop mount. My setup is as follows:
  • DragVette 6 link - upper and lower links parallel to halfshafts
  • Rear end c-clips removed
  • VBP 360 composite monoleaf spring (380 actual spring rate)
  • Viking Crusader Double Adjustable Shocks ('AP' valving) - set almost full soft today (3 clicks compression, 0 clicks rebound)
  • 335-30-18 BFG Rival S tires
  • Halfshafts parallel to ground at ride height
  • Rear camber set to .5 degrees negative at ride height
  • 26.5" ride height fender to ground in the rear

I'm not saying it won't ever hit, because it clearly has the potential to hit. But I don't think it's going to be an issue. I'm going to take it to a local autocross in the next month or two. Then, I might start playing with the 6 link geometry a bit for some camber gain.
My is not hitting either. My setup is the same except for:

- VBP 420 lb mono spring
- QA1 single adjust shocks set at 8 clicks
- 255/50R17 BF G-Force
- half shafts set to 1/4” higher at the differential
- fender height is at 28” (can’t figure out why they’re still so high)
considering cutting down the spacer between the mono spring and the diff

Had her out on a flat level highway and she drove way better than before. Consider all the bushings were changed in the rear suspension so you have to attribute the better ride to that also.
Also went on some back roads that are horrible and still did not hit. I think I’m good as well.
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Old Feb 1, 2018 | 03:51 PM
  #44  
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On a different note, I adjusted the upper and lower links far enough out that the drivers side trailing arm only has 3/32 worth of shims on the outside and the passenger side has no shims on the outside to get the correct toe. (I’m at 1/16” toe in.) You can do that if the c-clips are pulled. I used my digital calipers to measure how far the side yokes could slip out and still have 1/8” of shaft extending through the spider gear. This should give me extra backspacing when I change out wheels and tires. The half shafts were the limiting factor before for widening track width. I did find the center line of the car off the chassis and I’m within an 1/8” using toe plates on each side of the car. Front of the tire and rear of the tire. I need to draw up some illustrations to show why I think that’s important.
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Old Feb 1, 2018 | 03:54 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by DIY-79


My is not hitting either. My setup is the same except for:

- VBP 420 lb mono spring
- QA1 single adjust shocks set at 8 clicks
- 255/50R17 BF G-Force
- half shafts set to 1/4” higher at the differential
- fender height is at 28” (can’t figure out why they’re still so high)
considering cutting down the spacer between the mono spring and the diff
You have a 27" tire vs. my 26". Between that and halfshaft angle, that's almost an inch height difference right there. I'm also running solid body bushings which may account for some of it as well.

Last edited by Neil B; Feb 1, 2018 at 03:55 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2018 | 03:57 PM
  #46  
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Btw, I bought a used Richmond ROD 6 Speed. I’ll be starting a thread on that eventually. Plan on fabricating a removable crossmember, switching to solid motor mounts and moving the engine back 1 to 2”. Whatever I can achieve.
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Old Feb 1, 2018 | 04:03 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Neil B
You have a 27" tire vs. my 26". Between that and halfshaft angle, that's almost an inch height difference right there. I'm also running solid body bushings which may account for some of it as well.
That’s probably it. I’m not unhappy with the gap between tha tire and the fender and it’s aesthetically pleasing with the front. I’m going to 315/30R18’s so I’m expecting it to drop some.
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