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Iam in the process of intalling my own rollcage just now, just had a few thoughts, would be of any use to gusset imbetween the rollcage tube and places where the rollcage comes close to the vette metal internal body parts, ie the metal pillar and metal rollbar in roof benind you when sitting in the car and also the front window pillar
is there any benefit to doing this?
or any downsides?
i was thinking because the body is held onto the chassis by bolts and the bushes what the upsides or downsides our?
ps - the rollcage is getting attached the chassis underneath the body, ie the main fixing points
thoughts?
Last edited by corvettedave383; Feb 6, 2018 at 04:58 PM.
If your talking about connecting the rollcage to the body...I say no. The cage will do fine connected to the frame and with the body on bushings things need to be able to move around.
If you want to eventually crack your body, then attach rollcage to body! Roll cages are to stabilitize chassis for a consistent platform for suspension, and it saves your a$$if you roll over!
Last edited by TCracingCA; Feb 9, 2018 at 12:41 AM.
Iam in the process of intalling my own rollcage just now, just had a few thoughts, would be of any use to gusset imbetween the rollcage tube and places where the rollcage comes close to the vette metal internal body parts, ie the metal pillar and metal rollbar in roof benind you when sitting in the car and also the front window pillar
is there any benefit to doing this?
or any downsides?
i was thinking because the body is held onto the chassis by bolts and the bushes what the upsides or downsides our?
ps - the rollcage is getting attached the chassis underneath the body, ie the main fixing points
thoughts?
I have only seen it done in unibody cars and think it is just for appearance.
Depends on what your goals of the car are. If you are welding the cage to the frame then you will not be able to remove the body anyways so that would no longer be a concern. If you want the stiffest platform you can get then yes connect everything. If you gusset to the A-pillars and birdcage I would do solid mounts on the body so there is no flex. This is the route I will be taking.
With a well designed roll cage of the proper material , there is nothing to be gained by tying into the body. I am finishing the cage in my 70 and like you thought about it but didn't bother.
The FG shell is rubber mounted for a reason like Jim said. You use a hole saw like 2 1/4 to clear the 1 3/4 DOM tubing welded to the top of your frame rails
I took out the OEM carpet and thick fiber material and replaced it with bubble aluminum heat shielding and fire resistant short pile carpet my Sparco 5 point fiber seats are bolted right to the floor giving me about 3-4 extra inches of head with helmet head room. My seat is also back tight to the battery box so your legs are nearly straight forward to the pedals. I changed the clutch arm rod to the Z Bar down low to make it a short push for clutch operation the pedal only needs to move a couple of inches for use
only tie in the rear angle bars above the rear differential cross member. That leaves a rear crush area.
Oh I forgot about the most important step. You put in the roll cage hoops and tubes through the holes that you drilled and then then you unbolt the vette body from the frame and lift the body up for welding room. To the frame and around the interior roof. My rubber body mount donuts were already cracked crusty junk any way. So they needed replacement
I have only seen it done in unibody cars and think it is just for appearance.
On unibody cars it makes a difference, as the roof and pillars are stressed parts of the chassis, so it helps to add stiffness to the structure if you tie them in. On a separate body and frame vehicle not so much.
ok sounds like its not going to gain much in gusseting body to cage
heres a pic of progress so far, not lifting body off, just making bigger holes to allow welder in and can get access from wheel area
now need to start moving forwards with tubes
the whole seating thing is a worry, didnt know you can buy seats that bolt directly to the floor, does it end up putting you too low down and you struggle to see over the dash?
Not completely flat and I did make it adjustable five positions fore and aft. You need to figure out a 5-6 point harness bar behind the seat for what ever kind of Cam Lock belts you buy. The bars before painting.
You might as well be on the floor. My helmet was always to close to the top bar and roof. I originally installed two sparco seats and then I figured out that it sucked for access to the back and who has a passenger out racing. So I remove the passenger seat for race days.
in the rear end there is like a crash bar thing attached to the frame, does that help with the torsional rigidity of the frame?
No the rear diff cross member is the last rigid item. That is why you don't need the bars to go farther back. Se where mine go down?
Originally Posted by corvettedave383
also same in the front you have a bull bar thing right up front, again does that help with torsional rigidity?
The Frame A-Arm cross member and if you added a cross brace is all you need. Well other than gusseting it all up like the manual states.
Originally Posted by corvettedave383
and theres the vac tube, does that help?, or could that be cut off and then some nice strong rollcage tube to replace it?
All that heavy metal and vac tank can come out. I got rid of it all because it is weight out in front of the front tires.
Originally Posted by corvettedave383
trying to reduce weight and also improve torsional rigidity of the frame, the full rollcage should have a huge impact on
this area
thoughts anyone?
I've felt much safer since I installed my bars. sitting down low and all the way back you can feel what the car is doing when you are all strapped in. doing a 4 wheel drift through turns becomes fun.
you should remember most of the cages you see on SCCA race cars were built with SCCA production rules in mind, my original cage went as far forward as the rear of the upper a-arm which is all the rules allowed in 1970-71, we added bars up to the frame horns with a cross bar I mounted the radiator off of. there is a drawing of a very nicely designed cage in the Corvette section of the early Chevy Power books.
Mine was heavier than required at the time and passed the NHRA down to no faster than 9.99. SCCA was... Very liberal when you were in a vintage production class years ago. It would need an X in the door if not more now. You would need to read the rules to class compete.
Somebody on here years ago posted pictures of a beautiful cage that really hugged the interior contours with a mix of tiny tubing in the corners and even triangular plates. Very professional looking.
Iam buidling my cage to FIA standards, so the tube all correct size and following there rules on the cage style etc, so will be doing a cross style for the door bars etc
Rollcage question
