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Thats what you call a loaded question. You could be using 40 yr old rusty bolts or brand new ARPs black oxide bolts. And it depends on the heads, cast iron or aluminum. So, rough answer, around 25 ish working from the center bolts outwards.
You are not going to get a torque wrench in there anyway so just a pinch past snug.
The important thing here is to re-snug after a couple more heat cycles. And using a boxend wrench lessens the chance of snapping a bolt off as opposed to a ratchet.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Mar 8, 2018 at 07:56 PM.
Thats what you call a loaded question. You could be using 40 yr old rusty bolts or brand new ARPs black oxide bolts. And it depends on the heads, cast iron or aluminum. So, rough answer, around 25 ish working from the center bolts outwards.
You are not going to get a torque wrench in there anyway so just a pinch past snug.
The important thing here is to re-snug after a couple more heat cycles. And using a boxend wrench lessens the chance of snapping a bolt off as opposed to a ratchet.
Hard to reach bolts are difficult to get tight enough. I switched to ARP header bolts long time ago.
Use a good gasket..
And resign yourself to the fact that you will spend some time going back around and tightening the bolts again and again, Even with high quality bolts.
I tighten mine every heat/cool cycle for a few weeks, then just check them regularly. Gaskets compress, the header flanges "walk", and the bolts get loose. Trick is to keep them as tight as possible or plan on having leaks and replacing gaskets, which starts the cycle all over again.
And resign yourself to the fact that you will spend some time going back around and tightening the bolts again and again, Even with high quality bolts.
I tighten mine every heat/cool cycle for a few weeks, then just check them regularly. Gaskets compress, the header flanges "walk", and the bolts get loose. Trick is to keep them as tight as possible or plan on having leaks and replacing gaskets, which starts the cycle all over again.
25 ft lbs is about right. Problem is I can never seem to get that much torque on them because they are so hard to get at. Just keep retightening them. Same goes for the intake manifold bolts by the way.
And resign yourself to the fact that you will spend some time going back around and tightening the bolts again and again, Even with high quality bolts.
I tighten mine every heat/cool cycle for a few weeks, then just check them regularly. Gaskets compress, the header flanges "walk", and the bolts get loose. Trick is to keep them as tight as possible or plan on having leaks and replacing gaskets, which starts the cycle all over again.
Anybody that has installed headers must say to there self that there must be a better way? Wouldn't you think?
They are called ARP header studs. You put the studs in the head with a little blue locktight or even red. Then you hang the header gasket in place and lift the header flange over the studs.
NoMess, NoHassle, Nocussing, nocrossthreading, NO Stupid bolts.
I tried everything. Lock wire, stage 8 bolt kits, double gaskets....... Then I found header studs. I have not touched a stud nut in years even with glowing pipes and felpro blue steel gaskets
Anybody that has installed headers must say to there self that there must be a better way? Wouldn't you think?
They are called ARP header studs. You put the studs in the head with a little blue locktight or even red. Then you hang the header gasket in place and lift the header flange over the studs.
NoMess, NoHassle, Nocussing, nocrossthreading, NO Stupid bolts.
I tried everything. Lock wire, stage 8 bolt kits, double gaskets....... Then I found header studs. I have not touched a stud nut in years even with glowing pipes and felpro blue steel gaskets
My safety wired (lock wire) bolts have never come loose and I think it looks cool AND I don't have to worry about them or a stud coming loose.
Just saying........