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I've managed to get most of the 40,000 cans of hi-tack spray glue (give or take ) scraped out of the car, and am getting near putting the new carpet in.
I see the 3 holes in the back compartment for plugs/fasteners, the kits the vendors sell show that there are 6 used in the front.
The PO used enough spray glue to assemble the USS Missouri, so there weren't any retainers used. That's all out of the car now.
Where do the front retainers go?
Any tips on reinstalling the carpet? I picked up set from Al Knoch.
Hi BB,
The location of the holes in the underbody for the carpet plugs used for the front carpets are pretty easy to see with the carpet and padding removed.
Perhaps these photos will give you some idea of where to look.
Installing the carpet takes quite a bit of fitting and trimming. The rear wheel well pieces can be especially 'challenging'.
Measure VERY, VERY, carefully before trimming.
Regards,
Alan
As always your pictures are amazing. I see the holes now that I know where to look. I saw a post from Dub that he doesn't use spray glue on the front carpets at all, now it makes sense. Between those and the seat tracks, I'm sure it's not going anywhere.
Any special tips or tricks on the rear wheel well carpet pieces?
Hi BB94,
I found I could obtain a better fit using a little adhesive in the area below the kick panels on both sides.
If there's no adhesive the carpet seems to want to 'puff out' when the kick panel is put in place because of the pressure it's bottom edge puts on the carpet. The carpet must be trapped under the panel's edge to hold it in place.
Regards,
Alan
I've found that a roll of windo-weld was handy when installing my carpets. I used it mainly on inside corners to help hold the carpet in places I didn't actually want to glue. It hold very well and yet it allows you to re-position the carpet easily while you try to get it to sit nice. Particularly where the wheel-wells flatten out.
M
I've managed to get most of the 40,000 cans of hi-tack spray glue (give or take ) scraped out of the car, and am getting near putting the new carpet in.
I see the 3 holes in the back compartment for plugs/fasteners, the kits the vendors sell show that there are 6 used in the front.
The PO used enough spray glue to assemble the USS Missouri, so there weren't any retainers used. That's all out of the car now.
Where do the front retainers go?
Any tips on reinstalling the carpet? I picked up set from Al Knoch.
Best,
BB
Make sure you remove padding behind gas pedal or it may stick at full throttle.
Ken
I've managed to get most of the 40,000 cans of hi-tack spray glue (give or take ) scraped out of the car, and am getting near putting the new carpet in.
I see the 3 holes in the back compartment for plugs/fasteners, the kits the vendors sell show that there are 6 used in the front.
The PO used enough spray glue to assemble the USS Missouri, so there weren't any retainers used. That's all out of the car now.
Where do the front retainers go?
Any tips on reinstalling the carpet? I picked up set from Al Knoch.
Best,
BB
Originally Posted by BigBill94
I took the throttle pedal out and just put an on/off switch in the same spot.
Thanks for the tip, I will make sure to check and make sure.
Wish i’d Had an off switch! Happened to me right after I got my 69 L71. Automatic trans. Country road, very straight, no cars, no houses. Came to a stop, floored it, smoked the tires, pedal stuck, crapped my pants, put it in neutral, revving about 7k, kicked pedal and it released. Figured out problem, and after fixing it, took me over a year to try it again.👀
When I redid the carpet in my 71, one on the hardest things was getting the rubber nipples through the firewall. I found if I lubricated them and then used a needle nose pliers to pull it through once I could see a small amount of the nipple sticking through the firewall. Hope this helps.
When I redid the carpet in my 71, one on the hardest things was getting the rubber nipples through the firewall. I found if I lubricated them and then used a needle nose pliers to pull it through once I could see a small amount of the nipple sticking through the firewall. Hope this helps.
I really don't like using a pliers to pull the plug's tip through the hole in the fiberglass because it can split the rubber.
I've had success using a Phillips screwdriver with a rounded off tip to push from the interior side. The shaft of the screw driver needs to be smaller than the inside of the plug so the walls of the plug can collapse a bit as it moves through the hole. (Using a Philips screwdriver without rounding the tip, and without grease, often just pokes a hole through the tip)
Regards,
Alan
OK, if you want to ruin a good screwdriver. Using one that has not been rounded off will just have that screwdriver punch a hole in the end of that plug....the plug will go nowhere....
My advice (if you don't have a screwdriver to ruin): grease it and pull it.
I agree with Alan's method. One slight add though - tack weld, or maybe JB Weld a fender washer onto the shaft of the (modified) screwdriver or awl, approx 7/16" or so higher than the grommet sits on the shaft. This will allow some stretching of the grommet AND the washer will serve as a stop, thereby preventing it from tearing through the tip of the grommet when installing. Along with the aforementioned lubrication, this tool works perfectly. With this, there's no need to pull from back side. Ask me how I know.
BTW, we all have that one nasty old screwdriver that could be sacrificed for this purpose, no?
Last edited by redrdstr72; Mar 20, 2018 at 09:12 AM.
Hi,
I like the idea of the 'ring' too.
I'd seen a tool with it, but the ring was 'tacked' in place. I can't weld so thought I couldn't add it... didn't consider JB weld!
Regards,
Alan
The plug above and to the right of the gas pedal mount can be/has been a bear to get in!