When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Not trying to start an argument here, you can do want you want its your car.
But being old school, I believe synthetics have there place. And I believe that synthetics belong in the 2000s models. Seems like when people try to run synthetics in old cast iron situations with old school gaskets, things go wrong. A year from now you maybe asking why the rear axle leaks and chatters from synthetics.
I will stick with what GM still recommends for 40+ yrs: 2 bottles of GM rear axle lube. 1 bottle of GM posi modifier.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Mar 17, 2018 at 04:15 PM.
IDK. But I found the bottles on Summit Racing and even Amazon sells it. Watch for different part numbers on the bottle. Not sure whats up with that. Maybe somebody knows the difference on here.
I pre-mix the two bottle types into another bottle which is clear and has the nozzle tip on top. (similar to a ketchup squeeze bottle) Then fill the differential with the mix. That way you don't have to explain to the cops why you are doing figure 8s in a parking lot.
Add: According to Amazon the GM bottle is 80W/90 wt. $17 free shpg.
Summit is $10 + shpg.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Mar 17, 2018 at 05:25 PM.
I have been using either Mobil 1 or Amsoil 75W-90, both full synthetics, since 1990 (28 years now) without any GM additive, changing it every 8-10 years and have had zero issues with the differentials operation, sound, no leaks, no chatter.... Nothing. IMO Dino gear oil with additive is a safe bet, but modern synthetics are a better bet.......
Why anyone would use "old school" lubricants today when superior synthetic lubricants are available is beyond my scientific education unless cost is an overriding concern.
Last edited by jb78L-82; Mar 18, 2018 at 06:49 PM.
I'm still running dino in my rear but will be switching to Mobil 1 synthetic after I get it rebuilt. Mobil 1 synthetic gear lube SHC 634 has saved me tens of thousands of dollars and a lot of aggravation in my business. I have around 80 different gearboxes running daily and failures are almost unheard of. Was not the case with dino!
I'm still running dino in my rear but will be switching to Mobil 1 synthetic after I get it rebuilt. Mobil 1 synthetic gear lube SHC 634 has saved me tens of thousands of dollars and a lot of aggravation in my business. I have around 80 different gearboxes running daily and failures are almost unheard of. Was not the case with dino!
Now THAT sounds real world to me. May I ask, for apples to apples sake, what kind of gearboxes do you speak?
Now THAT sounds real world to me. May I ask, for apples to apples sake, what kind of gearboxes do you speak?
Primarily 90 degree running conveyors along with some augers. The conveyor boxes are all imported and way too expensive. You could easily feel the difference in heat with one running conventional vs. synthetic. That also helps keep the seals from blowing out which is obviously very important when a breather plugs up. Only 2 horsepower maximum so we're not dealing with the kind of power that's going to an automotive differential but then again these boxes aren't built like a Ford 9" either. Bronze gears in many cases.
I also run 8 two stage 7.5hp air compressors. Synthetics in those have eliminated heat related issues with the pumps as well. The chinese motors on the other hand...
Synthetic lubes/oils belong wherever there are rubbing/rolling/sliding metal-to-metal surfaces--regardless of their 'vintage'.
But, believe what you will and do what you want....
Just looked back at some old threads about Syn in rear axles. On 4-4-08 up popped your name. You stated and I quote: stick with the original lube, stay away from Syn.
Something changed your mind in ten yrs.