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My balancer has slipped. It looks like about 3 inches or more. I got the number 1 pistion on top dead center made a white mark on the balancer at zero on the tab. Checked that the rotor was under the number 1 plug wire on the distributor, which it was. Set the timing light to 8 BTDC and the mark was dead on zero with the engine running. Now for my question my car is a 76 l82 the balancer is quite large, I assume it is an 8 in. It is 2 in. thick. I have not ever changed a balancer pulled and put back on in the old days. The question I have is there a replacement the same size. I have heard guys here that have done some work on their car and had broblems with the pulleys not lining back up. I have tryed google to see if I could find measurements on balancers from the face to the end of what I call the snout, for lack of other term. I just don't what to get into a problem when I put on a new balancer and the pulleys not line up with the top pulleys, because the new ones are not as thick. Sorry for a long post, just wanted to give as much info as I could. Thanks
Lawrence
I think you are jumping to conclusions. If you are showing a zero w/ timing light and you wanted 8, I don't see where that is three inches. More like a half an inch.
Somethings to consider:
Timing tab marks on the timing cover correct or bent?
Was Vac hooked up to dizzy?
What RPM did you get zero degrees?
Creditabilty of the timing light?
I don't know if your balancer has slipped or not. If you confirm it has, remove it and send it to Damper Dudes in Cali. They can rebuild your original in less than a week. All will go back together as original. I had them rebuild the balancer on my 66 and 68 small blocks. Good luck. Jerry
Changing it isnt bad really. Had reaplcements that did and didnt line up
If you dont get yours rebuilt Summit sells a shim kit by Moroso....belt issues are annoying.
I think you are jumping to conclusions. If you are showing a zero w/ timing light and you wanted 8, I don't see where that is three inches. More like a half an inch.
Somethings to consider:
Timing tab marks on the timing cover correct or bent?
Was Vac hooked up to dizzy?
What RPM did you get zero degrees?
Creditabilty of the timing light?
HeadsU.P. When I got the #1 piston on top dead center the timing mark on the balancer was at the top was no where colse to the timing tab. I put a new mark on the balancer where the zero on the tab was. I was just checking if timing was even close. I dialed the timing light to 8 BTDC and with the engine running it was showing at zero on the tab. I think I am doing it right correct. When I said it was about 3 inches or more was from the old mark to the new mark i made on the balancer.
Another possibilty, but really remote is, the key on the crank snout is missing, damaged, etc. In a sense then the vibration damper did slip but it would be the whole unit.
The outer ring of dampers do on occasion slip, but its pretty rare. And to verify that, would require a piston stop tool in the sparkplug hole and some extra work.
You are still confusing the dizzy rotor location with actual TDC mark on the damper. Those two things could be off because of slop in the timing chain or incorrect location of the dizzy itself.
Also, is this the original timing tab on the original timing cover?
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Apr 7, 2018 at 06:17 PM.
Another possibilty, but really remote is, the key on the crank snout is missing, damaged, etc. In a sense then the vibration damper did slip but it would be the whole unit.
The outer ring of dampers do on occasion slip, but is pretty rare. And to verify that, would require a piston stop tool in the sparkplug hole and some extra work.
You are still confusing the dizzy rotor location with actual TDC mark on the damper. Those two things could be off because of slop in the timing chain or incorrect location of the dizzy itself.
Also, is this the original timing tab on the original timing cover?
There was no timing tab on the car when I got it. I see what you are saying about if I had it at top dead center for sure. If it has slipped then there would be a question if the piston was all the way up or not. I thought if the rotor was under the # 1 plug wire then it would get me close to top dead center. Looks like I will need to do some more checking. Thanks for you help.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
You can't determine TDC using the method you used - you're not anywhere close on your accuracy. You need to use a piston stop and do it accurately. Drop me a note for my "TDC Tech Paper" for instructions on how to determine TDC with accuracy. Only then can you determine if the balancer has slipped.
There are a few aftermarket timing tabs that supposedly bolt to the timing cover using the existing bolts. How accurate those pointers / number scales are can only be determined using a piston stop. In a nutshell: they can't be trusted out-of-the-box.
As you can see, posters on here are quick to replace a harmonic balancer without checking for actual defects. And I sure wouldn't purchase or install one for $40. I value my hood, mine and others personal property.
Now, your non-confirmed fears are the worst.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Apr 6, 2018 at 08:19 PM.
You can't determine TDC using the method you used - you're not anywhere close on your accuracy. You need to use a piston stop and do it accurately. Drop me a note for my "TDC Tech Paper" for instructions on how to determine TDC with accuracy. Only then can you determine if the balancer has slipped.
Thanks Lars for the help. I did not put in this post, about 3wks. ago I wanted to see if my timing was even close to where it should be. I set my timing light to 8 BTDC and started the car the timing mark was not even close to the tab, way far advance. Changed the timing light to 12 BTDC way at the top of the balancer on rotation. Tryed to retard the timing to get it clost to the tab, all I could get was still off the tab. The engine would hardly run. Turned the engine off and it would hardly turn over. And also diesel when I turned the engine off.
Thanks again Lars
I will send you a private message
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Send me an e-mail for info - I don't check all the "PMs", "IMs", and whatever it all is on all the Forums I contribute to - it would be a full time job. Drop me a note if you need some assistance.
Lawrence, are you sure that's not the groove for the magnetic timing probe vs TDC. Also if you dial your timing light to 8 degrees then the mark will be at zero. If your light is set to zero then the timing mark will be at 8 degrees. Also I would check the timing chain for stretch. Before condeming the balancer. Better safe than sorry.