Hello everyone, spring has finally gotten here in the NY area (at least for today, it’ll be high 30’s tomorrow) and I started back up on the 69 roadster.

I’ve removed the A-pillar trim and upper trim on the windshield. So far everything looks dry and no rust. A couple of questions before I proceed any further though.

1. I assume the corner and large center upper trim piece can only come off when the windshield is out?

2. Should I hire a windshield company to remove the window or can it be done easily enogh? Will they even remove a windshield from a 69? The windshield is fine and I’ll reuse it. I just want to make sure that there is no rust that needs to be taken care of.

3. I read on here about getting the window back in. Since I’m reusing the old one (hopefully) the thickness should be no problem. It’s the gaps around the edges for the trim I’m worried about. Should I measure the gaps now or it there a certain gap for sides and top that I should follow?

4. Anyone ever thought of an easy way to store a windshield to protect it for however long I have it out? I was thinking of maybe building some kind of wood brace for it to sit in but maybe someone has a simplier idea?

5. As you can see in the photos my corner trim pieces have some pitting in them. Steel wool I assume isn’t going to clean them up. Repair or replace?

Thanks everyone for the help. One thing I noticed is that some people had said the windshield trim was held on by ‘clips’ like other GM vehicles. They showed using that arrow shaped tool to twist and pop them out. My A-pillar trim was just held in with screws and black adhesive and the upper trim had push in clips to pulled out. Maybe later years had those other clips?

 

Hi PM,
I'll try a couple:

#1... the large piece of stainless trim can be removed with the windshield still in place.
The corner pieces usually can't because they each have 2 screws that come into them from the front and the glass limits the access to the screws.

#5... since the corner castings are chrome plated, steel wool won't do much to improve their appearance, but may help a little.

Regards,
Alan

 

From what I have heard from people that have tried, including the guys that are now painting my car, it is nearly impossible to get the windshield out without cracking it.

 

In regards to item #1 the large center trim, how is it held on? There are 6 (I believe) screws on the inside of the header that you can see in one of the pictures kind of. Do they hold the trim or just the top screws that I already removed?

 

Now I’m wondering if it’s worth it to pull the windshield or not? If I can remove the large center piece of trim and that’s dry and good I would assume hopefully the rest is good? The whole interior side of the bird cage was perfect and everything I can now see on the outside looks dry and good also.

 

YES..there is a specific tool to release the clips so the upper thin molding can come off.

Also....if you need specific help..come back and post your questions ad concerns, I have done numerous windshield repairs and installations...and will be glad to help you in any way in choosing the correct products to buy or 'tricks' that can aid you...in case you need help.

For what this is worth. Make sure the car is on level ground with aired up tires when doing any of this windshield repair or replacement. DO not have it on jack stands if at all possible.

DUB

 

Thanks DUB. What do you do then if your able to remove the windshield to reuse? If the new urethane is thicker to compensate for thinner glass it will raise the height of my old glass too much?

 

These are the screws I was asking about. Do these need to be removed to take out center trim?

 

here's what I'm trying. I have a donor car with a windshield in it that I will use. I contacted a few restoration shops who gave me the place that they recommended for classic glass jobs. The fellow stopped by to review things. An appointment was set and he removed the windshield. He has ordered what he calls a corvette kit that he will use to install the windshield the way it was originally done. I will show you his method once completed. Personally I would not remove the windshield unless I saw signs like loose looking trim, not setting tight to the glass etc.

Good Luck

RVZIO

 

Yes, if you remove those screws the center trim piece will lift out as you already have the top 4 screws removed. If it has never been out it will be held down across the front by a strip of sealer type putty between the stainless and frame underneath so start lifting up at the back edge and go easy so you don't distort the trim. The corner moldings are held down by 2 screws each on the front edge behind the windshield so you have to take the glass out for that but the top center trim has no fasteners along the front. If the windshield in your first pic of the first post is original it looks like someone filled the entire frame with sealer at one time as you should be able to see all the factory trim clips but the entire gap is filled up with something. It didn't come like that. I replaced the original windshield on my 69 recently because it was starting to delaminate around the edges and it would be a real crapshoot trying to get one out without breaking it. You also have to be very careful you don't mark or damage the dash pad along the windshield line when you cut it or wire it out.(Edited as I see your dash pad already is out.) It can turn into a can of worms really fast.... I also found that new glass is about .075" thinner than original, about .275 vs .200". If you pull the top stainless trim and find no evidence of rust and the structure down by your door hinge mounts behind the kick panels looks OK you might think about how far you want to go.

 

When I wrote 'thicker'...it was not dealing with viscosity....but rather the cured thickness of the urethane itself when the glass is set in place.

So...the urethane is a creamy product that will cure and get dense. SO...regardless of the thickness of the windshield....it will not change anything but the thickness of this urethane bead itself. Because who ever is putting in your windshield will get it set 'high' and then when the top outer trim molding is installed. The glass can be set down a little bit further by pressing on it so the gap between the glass and trim is correct. THEN they can raise the top corners of your windshield so when the side pillar post moldings are installed. They can raise the corner(s) of the windshield to meet this junction where the moldings meets and have the correct gap there.

If they are smart (or have done this numerous times)....they do a set-up can already have the rubber block ready to raise the corners of the windshield in this area.

Also...hopefully they are using a slow cure rate urethane. I know the guys who do mine use the fast stuff due to they change out windshields in parking lots, homes. etc and they already know how I want it to look and they do all of the set-up so when they put it min...it is prefect every time.

Just make sure that the glass shop that installs your windshield (if you are paying someone to install it). DO NOT USE any urethane on the outer pillar post stainless trims....Where a sealant is applied to the underside to seal off the metal portion of your pillar post fame area. Urethane is NOT what you want to use there. The guys who do mine knwo I have the correct stuff and I already have it applied on these moldings prior to installing them. Chances are the glass shop you use will not have the correct non-hardening sealant for that area....And I do not use the 3M 8509 'bedding/glazing' compound....but you can if you want to.

DUB

 

Hi pmc,
When all the screws are removed the large header trim MAY still need to be pried loose because of the sealant under it.
Be careful as you lift the trim so you don't accidentally kink or distort it.

Here's a photo showing the piece coming off.
Notice I was using a piece of wood as a pry tool.
Good Luck!

Regards,
Alan

This is the same area as you show in your photo.
The hole to the right is one of those that holds the rear side of the trim in place.
The hole to the left is a hole for the screw that holds the header soft trim in place.

 

Thanks everyone!! Of course our spring weather dropped down to 40 today. Ugh!!! I think I’ll just pull the center trim and inspect the upper windshield frame and if that looks all good leave the windshield in. I was trying to get it pulled or not before I went and start reinstalling the dash back in to complete the wiring and test fire it brefore moving over to body and paint work. Not in any rush but didn’t want to try and have to pull the windshield after putting dash back in although I’m sure it would have been easier to get the upper dash pad in with the windshield removed.

 

Not that you asked.

But if you have the top dash pad out and the speedo/tach dash panel and the map pocket dash panel removed. I would leave them out if you are going to get it painted. And this is assuming that you are planning on getting paint on the hinge posts.

Having these panels removed makes the job better (in my opinion) and no chance for paint over spray getting on dash panel components.

And installing the top dash pad with or without the windshield installed is not a concern of mine.

I know that I do prefer to pull the windshield...because going as far as I do many times...it seems kinda pointless not to take it out and correct any problems...and I almost every time find something that warranted taking out the windshield...if nit just getting rid of the windshield that has the sand blast haze to it.....and install a new dated LOF windshield back in.

DUB

 

Thanks DUB! I was trying to decide how far to go mechanically before paint. I was going to get the electrical complete and test fire the car to check everything before paint and was worried about the dash getting overspray on it. I enjoy hearing from other people who have been down this road (some many times!!) to know the proper steps to follow.

So leaving it gutted is probably in my best interest. I have all chrome and trim basically removed along with headlight buckets, rear deck, convertible top, and hood. Will just need to test fit hood with new EFI and see what air cleaner/hood combination works and then guess move to body/paint. Sound right? Was worried about scratching new paint and wanted to get as much done before paint but I guess you really need to get paint on before reassembly.

 

I would pull it down all the way. If you get it painted, all those little details stand out.

 

Okay finally got to spend some time in the garage today and tried pulling that header trim. It comes up in the middle and front but seems to be catching on the inside left and right corners. It’s almost like it slides into the corner trim instead of just sitting on top of it?

 

Hi Pm,
I'm thinking ALL the screws are removed?
Notice the shape of the rear of the ss trim and the 'lip' on the rear of the corner casting that it clips over.
Regards,
Alan

 

Thanks Alan. I removed all the screws and does your trim come on the outside of the header on the interior? Mine is in between the header and that little lip seems to be catching. It’s like I’d have to raise the center and try and slide it in almost but dont want to pinch the trim. All the screws are out also.

 

The stainless trim is supposed to be installed outside the upper header like in Alan's pic. Yours looks like someone (Bubba) has forced the stainless inside the channel.