Hello to all.

Dealing with a 1973.

I know there are blue million threads on this and I felt like I did not want to resurrect an old thread. Send any links from these old thread that apply is also helpful if a person want to waste their time.

So..has anybody installed a rack and pinion in there Corvette and give feed back.

It can be on how well it works and who you got it from and if you had to 'slice and dice' your cradle/frame up to install it.

ALSO...this is KEY... The customer has a small block with the serpentine belt conversion on it...so I wonder if any of you ALSO have that.

Any and all replies are greatly appreciated.

And any of you who may know me should also understand that I am not looking for the least expensive kit or a bargain. I am looking for the kit that is the most bullet proof and stout so NO problems in this area EVER come up where it has to be repaired. And the reason I wrote that last statement is because I DO come across some kits of 'this and that' that are poorly designed and need to be improved on...as I am sure many of you may have also encountered.

DUB

 

 

I have the Steeroids as well. Works extremely well. The linkage to connect it to the column is a bit of a weakness though. Two U-joints. A challenge to set up. Also I had to replace one of my U-joints when the bearing cap started to come out of the housing. Otherwise its been great.

 

Steeroids here as well. Been trouble free for years. I had to notch the drivers side engine mount. No issues with my headers but I don't run sidepipes.

 

Steeroids again, almost 10 years old and no trouble. Easy install, SBC, no modifications needed and mine has seen track days yet there is no cracking in the frame mounts, track days get 18x9s with slicks. With Steeroids I liked the heim jointed tie rods. T

 

First post not very helpful. I'll try again. I have a steroids setup and I like it. It has been redesigned and the rack mounting brackets beefed up. I actually had on side crack on the old system. They sent me another one upon request and it was beefier. The rack is a GM unit but I think the internal valving may be different. You use a stock pump. A mentioned the double u-joint setup is a little hokey but I have never had a problem with mine. They have two rack ratios. One at 2.5 turns and one at 3 turns lock to lock. I have the 2.5 turns. I fine tuned mine by dropping the flow rate and pressure to suit me. As I said I am happy with the system.

Tom

 

Have any of you guys looked at these?

http://www.unisteer.com/bolt-in-rack...inion-kit.html

I like the fact they use normal tie rod ends, instead of heim joints.

 

Are you married to the rack and pinion?

When I went to the biggest Corvette shop in the area, the guy there said he advises against racks on a C3 and usually goes with the Borgeson steering box instead. It's been a while but as I recall he thought rack lead to some skittery handling on bumpy roads, I don't recall what specifically he didn't like about them, something about how they all mount forward of the wheel axis.

This was also like ten years ago so maybe the newer racks are better. I do like the way my Borgeson handles but I have not driven a C3 with a rack.

 

I've lived around and driven on some pretty bumpy roads - never noticed the R&P to add any "skittery" handling , at least no more than the stock steering did.

 

'cooper9811', 'drwet', 'ddawson', 'terry6t8roadster','Sky65','Fredtoo' and 'Backstop' Thank you for your replies and feedback!

Thank you also 'Fredtoo' for another option to possibly consider.

I get that there is a 'feeling' that the u-joints in the steering coupling shaft raises concerns with some of you. Also knowing that many of you have had the Steeroids system in your Corvettes for some time...and some who have raced it. I feel that this area of concern may still warrant looking into even though no one here has stated that they had catastrophic failure in this area...except for 'drwet' who commented on catching a cup coming out of this area and needed to be repaired.

This small block is having the Sanderson block hugger style 'shorty' headers put on it. And the problem....which is causing the need to go with the rack and pinion is that the header is not able to be installed on the left side due to the tube for #1 exhaust is coming out too far and will not allow the header to get to the cylinder head...due to the gear box and this tube are in conflict by about 1/4''.

Space between the gasket surface of the cylinder head to the closest point of the gear box is 3-7/8"...and measuring the header at his point is 4-1/8".

So unless a Borgeson gear box will provide a wider gap and allow the header to fit. I am in a slight pickle.

And all I can hope for is that IF a rack and pinion is installed...the coupling shaft will work because the Sanderson headers are obviously wider than a stock cast iron manifold ...which the owner of the car DOES NOT want to use cast manifolds due to the engine in this car is SERIOUSLY bad @$$.

Thanks again for all of the replies and suggestions.

DUB

 

Hey DUB,
You may try giving Donna at Sanderson a call to make sure your customer has the proper shorty header specific for the Corvette (800) 669-2430, in CA.
Donna is very knowledgeable and has been with Sanderson for years.

When I purchased my Sanderson headers I talked with Donna who told me there would be no clearance issues with my headers and Borgenson steering box even with my big block.
I haven't installed my headers or the Borgenson box yet, but if you are having a fitment issue I would give them a call.

 

Well this all sounds like what I am doing right now. I am installing a Flaming River kit "Part #: FR312PW" This is for my 1978 corvette. Now the parts that are similar to your setup.

1. Engine is a Chevy ZZ383 with Sanderson Shorty Headers CDP134 this are 1 3/4" tubes dport.
2. Engine has the GM serpentine belt system installed.

So here are the list of issues with the R&P conversion.

1. The cradle system is very heavy metal support I did have to adjust the cradle a bit to get it to slide between the frames. The holes for mounting using the factory steering box and idler arm fit with no problems, but there are 2 extra support holes that require the use of 2 jig points on the frame to mount through. Fit is ok, but the frame is not built to support a lag bolt or any other bolt since the frame will collapse in as you tighten to 30ftlbs. You need to fab a support plate or support the frame for lag bolts and prevent the frame from collapsing on it self. Driver side requires 3 factory steering box bolt locations + 1 through the frame. Passenger side 2 factory idler arm locations + 1 through the frame.

2. Next header clearance. The only problem with the headers is the collector flange position. In my case the bolt locations of the flange where in the wrong position. You can rotate the flange on the header for best clearance. This required me to make a new section of the exhaust.

The headers also limit on how far I can rotate the R&P unit for better angles. (some units you may not even make this adjustment) Flaming river unit allows the unit to rotate to optimise the steering linkage angles.

Here is a picture of the header clearance. This picture show the correct position of the flange required. The original setup had the bolt hole next to the steering linkage.



3. The steering linkage is the most difficult to setup, for the main reason is the limit of the existing steering column position. First the factory steering column points at a poor angle and is too long. So the best solution is to collapse the steering column to have the best chance of small angles for the u-joint systems. I didn't want to collapse the factory steering (return to factory later) so the angles are not great which creates uneven steering effort as the column rotates. You only notice this if you are picky and sensitive in the hands. This setup for the C3 requires a 1 double u joint and 1 single u joint. Since you need 3 joints you also need a support bearing to hold the steering shaft in place. You most likely will need to fab a bracket to get it in the right location. The Flaming river supplied bracket only works if you collapse the steering column a lot, or are using a shorten after market steering column.

4. You will also need to reposition the steering wheel (center to the rack center point) The steering column is indexed (flat spot for the set screw on the u joint) it wont line up correct to the R&P

5. Rack position. The flaming River unit is not positioned correctly for the C3. This is because the R&P box needs to be positioned to clear the oil pan and far enough left to clear the engine mounting bracket. So what the result is the passenger side tie rod sleeve is too short to use the factory tie rods. For me Moog E323R ( Factory C3 Tie rod) also the flaming river unit uses right had thread both sides. I was expecting left hand one side and right hand the other side so toe adjustments turned the same way (not a big problem). So to make up the passenger side distance 2 have add a extender or as I did, I used a E381R tie rod (68-69 Camaro) which is 1.44" longer than the factory C3 corvette tie rod.(this is a design problem from flaming river)

6. Hose connections. The supplied hoses for the high pressure side were almost useless.(coiled up the hose to connect). The connections to the R&P are very tight clearance from the engine mount bracket. Expect to make a custom hose to connect to the factory PS Pump (high pressure side only)

7. If the serpentine system used the supplied PS pump and didn't use the correct pressure valve in the pump for the factory C3 power steering system (900-1000PSI) then that will need to be changed. My Kit pressure valve in the pump was for 1600 PSI system (later GM).

8. The steering linkage is all tied together with set screws and lock nuts. They recommend using RED Loctite for final assembly. I am not sure this will help since the steering linkage is so close the headers and may get hot enough to free the RED Loctite anyways.

9. Turning radius. Expect it to be less than factory. I get 2 1/2 turns lock to lock. While the factory was almost 3 full turns. You may need to adjust the steering limit stops on the control arms to prevent damage from over extending the R&P

10. The feel of the R&P is very light compared to the factory C3 steering. Feels like a modern sedan.

I may have forgotten a few other points but I have been working on the project over the last 30 days (slowly) , but I think regardless of which R&P kit you use they are all similar in the setup.

1. Use the factory steering box & Idle arm mounting.
2. Connect to the factory steering column (R&P same position)
3. Use 3 u-joint points & support bearing. Borgeson units is a good choice for well built and options. (provide the best max angle of use and strength at max angle) Ideal is max 15 degrees, but this will not happen in a C3 corvette.
4. Header clearance possible problems.

5. A plus for flaming river is they sell complete rebuild kits for their units.

If you have other questions please PM me, I can also send you pictures to better visualize some issues.

 

I have Hooker sidepipe headers. I "clearanced" one header tube significantly to get the best angle on the steering shaft. Bit the tubes are pretty big. 1 7/8"

Tom

 

This is a BBC with Hedman Headers, Not sure were the shorty fits in this picture but I had plenty of room with my BBC.

 

Hey Dub-

Of course my car is TOTALLY stock!!!


I went with the Flaming River piece too- albeit the manual version.

As Cargotzmann stated - it's a very sturdy piece!!!

I had to modify the cradle to fit my pan- have read several scenarios regarding the clearance is an issue.

Also cut down the mount and changed the clamp for the rubber bushing on the R & P to the cradle to get the clearance I needed.

The cradle did take some tweeking to conform to my frame- nothing a hammer and vise couldn't fix

I didn't use their hardware- on another old thread I read complained about the carriage bolts- so I got a hold of some 4" Button caps- that I will be able to tighten. For the Jig hole- just cut some 1 ½" pipe the width of the frame and welded an endcap that fits flush with the frame.

Since I added the electric steering from a Nissan Cube- right next to the firewall- the resulting length is close to stock. I used an adjustable shaft-from the Nissan (end fit was 3/4 DD) and a 3/4DD to 9/16-26 spline U-joint to attach to the rack. I also made up a 9/16-26 spline to a male 3/4 DD-It wouldn't work for my combo - so If you need it I'll be glad to send it to you.

The power rack comes closer to the cabin a bit more than the manual-The manual's instruction says punch a hole in the motor mount- I changed it up so I just had to notch it.

To support the steering shaft- I used a 1" bearing rather than a heim joint. I ended up with 3 single u-joints and one support. Turns really smooth.
























9/16-26 spline to 3/4DD male

 

'cagotzmann', 'Sky65', 'ddawson' and 'Richard454'

I want to THANK all of you with your input. It is much needed and appreciated!!!

The photos and descriptions are a great help due to the owner of the car that this is potentially going into can visits this thread and see what it involved...and this isn't so much of a 'plug in and play' scenario.

Once again. MUCH THANKS!

DUB

 

Here DUBhttps://www.speeddirect.com/index.php/tech-info/product-technical-information/corvette-c2-c3-header-clearance

 

Btw, I'll just add I'm installing the Steeroids on my 70' with a SB. I based my decision on a few PM inquiries, all said they'd do it again. Parts & list are spot on. Seem to have very good follow up at Speeddirect.com
Good Luck.