Hard to tell from the video but that does not look like a clutch fan which would explain why it's so hard to move by hand.

Do what the others recommend, remove the fan belts and see if the noise goes away.

 

You are confusing the word "clutch", the information people are trying to give you has nothing to do with transmissions all the references to the word "clutch" in this thread refer to the engine fan.

 

When you say it won't start, won't turn over, or spins and won't fire? Also the references here to a clutch fan have nothing to do with the transmission. The fan clutch is a device which connects the radiator fan to the water pump and allows the fan to turn more slowly when the engine is cold. We can't tell from your video if you have a fan clutch. Its possible you don't, in which case the resistance to turning you are demonstrating would be normal. If you have a fan clutch, the fan should turn with slight resistance.

 

if the engine won't turn then it is likely
a torque converter nut backed out and hitting
inspection cover . you need to look. jack up car.
the sound you recorded sounds like it could be that.

the fan hitting the rad shroud can be easily found by checking the fan for up and down movement. side to side, or any movement

 

Two things, first is pet peeve, your videos are in portrait mode...90% of people are looking at this on a monitor in landscape.

2nd, the fan clutch has nothing to do with the transmission. The fan clutch is a clutch that is attached to fan....or what drwet said.

 

Hi all,

I have a long-overdue update.

So I ended up parking the vette until midwinter—rode the motorcycle until it was too cold and dangerous to continue doing so!

Took a wrench to the vette. Figured out how to remove all 3 belts (Power steering, AC, Alternator). Did so. No more noise! Great. Put the belts back on. Still no more noise. Even better!

Drove it a few times, then things got weird—super loud noise, worse than before. But, weirdly, during this time my power steering worked like a dream (for a couple years now it's been semi-functional, and I'd often have to add more liquid to get it to cooperate. Been meaning to work on it but it was never my DD so I didn't make the time to do so). So I find it odd that when I opened the hood again today, after barely getting it home (I'm pretty sure the belt was stopping the drive shaft and thus stopping the engine!!—it died in traffic several times), it was the power steering belt causing all the noise. I removed it and when doing so noticed that the power steering pulley was (a) wobbly and (b) didn't align very well with the drive shaft. I've no idea if this was the case before or not—except I looked at my old belt and it definitely had a sideways tread, which I assume is abnormal!

is a link to a video showing the wobble and the misalignment. I quickly did some googling and it looks like there are several threads discussing how to use spacers etc. to move the power steering pulley forward a bit. Sounds like a total PITA since, as others have mentioned, I can't move the pump itself forward at all or else it'll hit the alternator belt, so I'm going to need to add

Questions:

1) Based on the video (esp. the wobble), do you agree I should go ahead and replace the pulley?

2) If so, I've found it hard to actually find the part—anyone have positive things to say about CorvettePartsWorldwide? I can get it for $65 there + $10 shipping. Guess I'll also need to get a puller tool.
Link to part

3) The replacement belt I tried today is the cheap one from the auto parts store—is it worth paying for a gator or gates or whatever if I'm already replacing the pulley? I've seen the brand mentioned here on the forums. From what I can tell it'd be $20ish but I already have the one I just bought (which was $7).

4) Any ideas how this would have happened? It went from no squeal to loud squeal and last spring pretty much immediately and that's why I garaged it til now.

5). It was hard to get the pulley super tight so it's possible if I tried again, e.g. with gentle pressure from a pry bar, I could get it tighter, but given the misalignment and wobble, my sense is that it's not worth it. Any thoughts on that?

Any advice very welcome at this point. Would love to hear I don't need to replace the pulley but I'm thinking I will.

Thanks, all!

 

 

Thanks for the quick reply!

Oy vey, so it sounds even worse than I thought, eh? Did a quick search and it looks like you buy the pump and the pulley separately, so is there much harm in buying the pulley first and seeing if that fixes it (assuming I take it off immediately if there's any problem)?

 

 

Looking at your last video it's obvious that the pulley and shaft are both moving so the pump bushings are destroyed. You'll need a new pump.

 

Rebuilt pumps are cheap. RockAuto has them. The pulley is separate, and you will need a $20- puller/install tool from Harbor Freight, or a nice one from somewhere else. This may also fix your PS leak, so there's no reason not to do both.

There is a small chance that your pulley is still good, so pulling the pump is the first step either way. Take it out with the mount and save yourself some hassle.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes!

 

If you do end up swapping the pump, double check its the correct unit. Some of those parts counter people will order the incorrect one. There are a couple of them. One has a taller fill spout. It will never fit under the ALT bracket, so you need the shorter fill spout.

When changing out the pulleys, use great caution. Some pullers do more damage than good. If heat is applied, you can damage the rubber seal in the pump.

 

Thanks, all. Super helpful. Lots more questions so please bear with me!

Went on rockauto and found this (which is the top hit that includes reservoir from this list of results) ($33.79+11 core)—HeadsUP, I don't have anything to compare it to but the filler neck looks pretty short—does this part look right to you? I figured I'll go ahead and order it with a new reservoir too since it's a $6 cost difference. Do I also need to order a seal or will this pump+reservoir be everything I need (except for the pulley of course)?

I can't find the pulley itself on RockAuto but I imagine it's there somewhere—can anyone help me out there? I'm new to RockAuto and dumb re: names of things in a car so maybe I'm just missing it but I'm not seeing "pulleys" anywhere, at least in the steering section (which is where the rest of the pump assembly stuff is!)

For the puller—will this set work?

Any other tools I'll need to get the job done? Obviously more power steering fluid...in addition, I heard I should flush the new (well, remanufactured) pump a few times with new fluid, in which case I should get an oil suction gun as well, right?

Should I replace any of the lines or anything else while I'm doing this? As far as I could tell when we looked for the PS fluid leak a couple years back it seemed to be coming from the arm things connecting the two wheels (maybe the cylinder, maybe it's a tie rod? Not sure but I think I could identify it if I had a picture of the underside). But I guess I should get the pulley and pump fixed first and then see if/where it leaks?

Finally, I heard I should install an in-line filter while I'm doing this. Sound right? and if so, any tips on what to buy and how to install?

Anything I'm missing?

BTW, I drove it today with the belt off. Since I've had problems with the PS for so long I'm pretty used to driving it without PS anyway. Man, it drove so well without that belt issue, was really happy! Like a lot of you I have a...complicated...relationship with this car since I think it's gorgeous but it needs a lot of work. So I guess it's like a lot of relationships, right?

 

 

You most likely will have to turn in a core. So, you can compare size of filler tubes right there at the counter. I have never dealt with RockAuto, as long as its a true American pump it should be fine. NAPA has one as well as some of the Vette vendors.

Instead of buying a puller I took the old pump and the new one to a small shop. Shop owner had that pulley off and reinstalled before I could open my wallet. Charged a small fee. Cheaper than a puller.
Inline filter? Really isn't any contaminants in a P.S. system, so I vote NO on the filter. Trying to remember if there is a built in filter at one of the ports on the pump. Maybe on the return port.

When you install the two mounting studs into the back of the pump, a supplied "O" ring goes in the threaded hole first. Then smear a dab of RTV on the stud threads, torque it down. Those studs go directly into the reservoir.

I believe there are eight parts to the P.S. system. How many you wish to replace is up to you. If you replace seven, the eight will leak. Murphys Law.