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Quick question before I start this process next weekend.
When you plug the MC to test the pressure without the lines, how do you keep from introducing yet more air in the lines.
You don't. You will introduce air everytime.
I knew I was going to be rebleeding the system anyway. Just a test to determine if the mc was holding pressure. Which in this case it was.
Huh? Lost me there.
O.P. is saying if when the MC is installed on the booster, fully bled with plugs in the brakeline ports, will air be introduced when the plugs are removed and front / rear brakelines are then attached.
Yes. No matter how quick you are. Because the brake fluid is not likely at the top of the brakeline flare & fitting. (air pocket)
Sorry, I was still bleeding on the bench.
However,
The same technique still helps to get air out.
Bleed the newly installed lines via the fitting as if it were a bleeder screw.
This will keep you from having to chase a bubble all the way down to the calipers.
Its too late. The bubble is already in the lines. Trust me. Even if the fluid was seeping out the top of the lines, a small air pocket / bubble has formed.
I rebuilt the LR caliper this weekend. Installed the caliper and proceeded to bleed the rear brakes with the Motive bleeder. All the air seemed to get out of both rear calipers so I moved to the front.
Almost immediately I noticed a drip under the combination valve. I crawled under with some flare nut wrenches. Of course the line that needed tightening goes all the way around to the right front brakes. So I tightened the fitting and it leaked more.
Broke everything down for the day and contemplated buying a new line. The shipping on the thing was very expensive. Except for Eckler's had a $10 shipping special. So I ordered from them although I am not a fan of Eckler's. Back to waiting on parts again.
I'm thinking about scabbing into the brake line tomorrow. I could cut into the old line and splice a short section of brake line and fitting into the combination valve. Don't want to do it but I don't really want to change the complete line if possible.
First, don't let the MC run dry or you are back to bench bleeding. Figure out how to stop the leak for now.
Second, never take short-cuts on brake jobs. No joints, splices, scab work. You got to do this right. You could kill somebody with sub-par craftsmanship.
Second, never take short-cuts on brake jobs. No joints, splices, scab work. You got to do this right. You could kill somebody with sub-par craftsmanship.
I would never do this. I'm simply frustrated and grabbing for straws.
I pulled the front crossover line off of the car this morning. There was a small split in the sealing surface of the fitting that attaches to the combination valve. Wasn't too bad of a job getting it out.
I was doing some searching here on brakes and bleeding them correctly. I found these on an old thread.
Copper sealing washers for a 3/16" brake line. Anybody use these? Have you guys seen them? Seems like a viable option on a SS line connecting to the brass combination valve. That's where my leak turned out to be. The front crossover line.
I was doing some searching here on brakes and bleeding them correctly. I found these on an old thread.
Copper sealing washers for a 3/16" brake line. Anybody use these? Have you guys seen them? Seems like a viable option on a SS line connecting to the brass combination valve. That's where my leak turned out to be. The front crossover line.
Yes I have. I used one on the elbow fitting on my fuel pump. No more leaking fitting.
Got the new crossover line installed this morning. I had a hard time connecting the line to the combination valve. I used one of the copper washers on both ends of the new line. No chance to bleed the system today as Mother Nature brought a band of storms in.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
SS is really hard.....so to get t to seal 1/8 to 1/4 turns back and forth especially at the end to get it to conform. I have never used the copper thin washers
Got the new crossover line installed this morning. I had a hard time connecting the line to the combination valve. I used one of the copper washers on both ends of the new line. No chance to bleed the system today as Mother Nature brought a band of storms in.
Since I don't think it has been discussed....lets just confirm your bleeding RR inner, RR outer, LR inner, LR outer in that order
That isn't the order in the service manual. I have used the service manual recommendations. I have also bled them the farthest to the closest as I believe that you are advocating.
That isn't the order in the service manual. I have used the service manual recommendations. I have also bled them the farthest to the closest as I believe that you are advocating.
I too have seen a different order of bleeding procedure, but sstocker 31 has it right. A bubble will likely be trapped on the inside of a caliper first, then the outside.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; May 21, 2018 at 09:22 AM.
This morning I bleed all four calipers again.
I went around twice using the Motive Bleeder.
I FINALLY HAVE A HARD PEDAL.
BUT the new issue is the brake warning light. The warning light is on when the key is on. When I push the brake pedal the light goes out.
I didn't use the combination valve tool that I have. The tool that holds the valve in position in the combination valve. I have read that I don't need the tool to bleed with the Motive bleeder.
Now I can't get the valve/light to reset. The pedal won't go down far enough to give the extra push to reset it.
My plan is to put the tool in the valve and rebleed all fours again. I guess I'll need someone to hold the pedal to center the piston until I get the tool in the valve.
The warning light is out. I inserted the special tool in the combination valve and rebled all four calipers again. No air bubbles. Replaced the tool with the warning switch. Turned the key and no light. Pushed the pedal and the light didn't come on. Could it possibly be fixed?
