72 Project

https://www.jegs.com/i/United-Engine...060-1/10002/-1

https://www.jegs.com/i/Scat/942/26385716/10002/-1

https://www.jegs.com/i/Scat/942/945425/10002/-1

https://www.jegs.com/i/Brodix/158/2061000/10002/-1

Should be a 496 CID with 10.5 compression.

Any opinions on this or better ideas?


Thanks

Jim

Pop Chevy

I do not like the cast steel cranks and have been advised not to use em. I would also pick a lighter piston, however what is your end goal? Street, racing , cruising ? You might be better off using a complete package like Ohio Crank offers.

TimAT

Build the bottom end as absolutely strong as you can. Forged everything, studs, ARP bolts, the works. With that, regardless of what you want to do right now, you can add to it later and not have to worry.
Ohio Crank, as Pop pointed out, has a pretty good deal on either assembled or unassembled short blocks. Others have short blocks close to the same money. Package heads are fine, but you should match the valve springs to the cam you're going to run, or that will cause headaches down the road too.
Even just for Saturday night cruising, it's not much fun to have to spend the next week trying to hunt down a problem like a broken valve spring or bent pushrod because you got a bit over excited with the loud pedal and made that guy in the other car look bad in front of his date.

L88Plus

That crank - as long as you get the one that can be internally balanced - will handle just about all you can throw at it short of large doses of nitrous. A guy over at the Team Chevelle site ran one for about 4 years, pulling the front wheels on pretty much every run and hit it with a 175 shot of spray on several. Finally broke but even he admits he got more than his money's worth. Said he thought it was forged when he got the engine, so he treated it as such. Scat's newer ones are profiled just like their forged cranks with bullnosed counterweights and a few other things.
Good choice on the rods.
I'm with Pop on the pistons, those are a bit heavy.

Choice on the crank depends entirely on what you plan to do with the car. Spirited street and an occasional blast down the strip, no problem with cast. Dedicated race car, go forged.

Sigforty

It looks like a decent setup. Scat makes some good stuff and the cast steel crankshafts can hold up to a lot of abuse. I am not sure if the pistons include rings. If not you may want to look at something like a Wiseco piston that does include rings.

OldCarBum

I'm stroking my BB to 496 with 10.5 to 1 cr as well and going with the SCAT forged crank, forged rods and pistons. The owner of the speed/machine shop helping me and the customer reps at SCAT all agreed that I could use a cast crank, but I tend to over engineer everything and went with a forged crank upgrade. The cost difference was only about $600.00 and I thought it was cheap insurance.
I hope you found a good performance machine or speed shop to help you out. There is a lot on little things I have learned about putting this motor together.
Have you decided on your camshaft yet?
Just remember it all has to work together to make it right. Including your transmission, torque converter if automatic, rear end gearing etc...

72 Project

If the pistons sound heavy. What do you recommend? Forged with a 23 cc Dome?

L88Plus

Diamond or SRP for pistons

73racevette

Scat has a complete setup that you should probably look at instead of piece mealing this together. If you are buying a crank anyway, the stroker crank is the same $$. Free HP. Scat has nice stuff. Go to their website and pick a packaged setup with rods, pistons, crank and you will be happy. They have several piston options to go with their setup as well.


I have the same exact heads from Brodix. Nice heads, but be sure to have everything checked. Don't just slap them on. Spring heights, etc, should all be checked.

OldCarBum

I agree with all this. I purchased my Edelbrock heads assembled and the machine shop strongly suggested tearing the heads down and checking everything, even with good quality heads.

Nothing comes for free though. If you do stroke your 454 (and I would also suggest you do if replacing your crank) keep in mind that you'll need to purchase new rods, there will be a cost increase in machining your block for clearing the longer rods, and you'll need to purchase a new oil pan with clearance for the longer stroke.