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I have a very significant wobble at my clutch linkage. There is a shaft held captive between what looks like ball joints between the block and the frame.
This will clearly need a rebuild one day but in the meantime...
On the frame side, the ball stud is very loose on the bracket; the end nut looks loose.
I tried tightening the nut but of course, it spins freely.
There should be a locking device on the frame side that lock the nut in place. It's a square looking washer thing that once you tighten down the nut you bend over a tab to keep the nut from loosening. Notice two flats on the stud that the nut treads on to. Use a small wrench to keep the stud from turning to tighten the nut.
Last edited by theandies; Apr 28, 2018 at 12:24 PM.
There should be a locking device on the frame side that lock the nut in place. It's a square looking washer thing that once you tighten down the nut you bend over a tab to keep the nut from loosening. Notice two flats on the stud that the nut treads on to. Use a small wrench to keep the stud from turning to tighten the nut.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
the anti rattle springs should help with wobble at the clutch fork. Then after all the springs are in, adjust the freeplay for the clutch to minimize it. You'll need a little play so that the fork isnt riding on the throw out bearing. If youre not trying to remain completely original, there are clutch linkage upgrades that use hiem joints that take out all the play and rattles
Make sure that the ball stud that is threaded into your engine block is TIGHT and SEATED against the block.
They have been known to back themselves out over time....and thus...cause your 'Z' bar to wobble.
Make sure that ALL of your linkages are tight and have NO forward or backwards movement in them when they are installed due to the holes in parts being wobbled out or wear on the shafts of these linkages. When these parts to wear out...what will happen is that when and if you got to adjust your clutch...you will run out of adjustment threads on the main shaft that comes through your firewall. All you want to see and feel is that these rods and linkages can swivel in their respective locations. And having the correct 'G' clips is also a must due to they provide added tension on these connections instead of using a cotter pin. The ONLY place that the cotter pin is used is at the clutch fork to hold in the clevis pin.
What 'Rescue Rogers' has shown is what many people use and is a MAJOR improvement in the clutch linkage system.
Hi,
Perhaps the retainer for the nut on the outboard pivot stud is missing.
When one of the 'ears' is bent down over the one of the faces of the nut it prevents the nut from loosening.
Regards,
Alan
The retainer:
The forward anti-rattle spring in place on the z-bar and rod:
The rear anti-rattle spring in place on the rod and clutch fork:
This spring clip when installed properly puts some tension on the connection too so helps prevent a rattle.
the anti rattle springs should help with wobble at the clutch fork. Then after all the springs are in, adjust the freeplay for the clutch to minimize it. You'll need a little play so that the fork isnt riding on the throw out bearing. If youre not trying to remain completely original, there are clutch linkage upgrades that use hiem joints that take out all the play and rattles
I installed this kit but had a problem with the two black brackets that sandwich on the top and bottom of the clutch fork. Even though I tightened the crap out of the bolt the brackets eventually slipped and didn't allow my clutch to disengage. Luckily I was a block from home. I fixed them by taking them off and bending the corners of each bracket to keep them from rotating again. It's been fine ever since.
Hi,
Perhaps the retainer for the nut on the outboard pivot stud is missing.
When one of the 'ears' is bent down over the one of the faces of the nut it prevents the nut from loosening.
Regards,
Alan
Yes, that is missing. In the meantime I managed to tighten the nut a little bit and found that my clutch pedal is far less vague.
Holy crap, Alan I could eat my lunch off of that car... tho I never would for fear of soiling the car...
Temporarily I tightened the nut on the ball stud and removed most of the play and gave the clutch a much better feel to it. It is not as vague as before.
I will upgrade with the kit you guys posted and let you know how it goes.
I notice this kit does not come with the anti-rattle springs. I take it they are obsolete in this case?
No anti-rattle springs necessary with the heim-joint linkage kit. I'll try and post a picture of my bent brackets to see if you want to do it. Give me a little time to do it though as I work nights and don't have a lot of free time when I'm working shift.
No anti-rattle springs necessary with the heim-joint linkage kit. I'll try and post a picture of my bent brackets to see if you want to do it. Give me a little time to do it though as I work nights and don't have a lot of free time when I'm working shift.
You don't need the anti-rattle springs, but you still need the clutch return springs to keep the throwout bearing from riding against the pressure plate fingers.
the anti rattle springs should help with wobble at the clutch fork. Then after all the springs are in, adjust the freeplay for the clutch to minimize it. You'll need a little play so that the fork isnt riding on the throw out bearing. If youre not trying to remain completely original, there are clutch linkage upgrades that use hiem joints that take out all the play and rattles
This kit is very good and I also have found that I needed to fabricate up the plates so they would not rotate. I welded tabs of flat steel on the sides so these plates would not move even with no bolt being installed...and then obviously I installed the bolt to secure it to the 'Z' bar.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I found some on my phone. my kit only had one bracket for the arm, it's been over a season of driving and I haven't had a problem. 2 sandwiched together may be needed for a really stiff clutch. I've got a McLeod clutch and flywheel in there now and it's working great
This kit is very good and I also have found that I needed to fabricate up the plates so they would not rotate. I welded tabs of flat steel on the sides so these plates would not move even with no bolt being installed...and then obviously I installed the bolt to secure it to the 'Z' bar.
DUB
This is probably similar to what DUB does but since I'm not a welder I relied on brute strength and a BFH.
Thanks for the pictures. It would seem that the lower bolt attaching to the clutch fork would collapse the end of the fork? Seems like there should be a spacer in there... And if not, would you put Loctite on that? Or nylock nut or two nuts... ?
Clutch linkage wobble
I could eat my lunch off of that car... tho I never would for fear of soiling the car...
