It looks like I have a problem with worn half shaft yokes which is going to require going into the differential. The yokes (it appears without measuring) move in and out about 1/8” – 3/16”. That’s excessive from what I gather.
I’m trying to decide if I can let this go until the end of the season, a couple thousand miles maybe. From what I understand the yokes will eventually wear to the point that they’ll move inboard and contact the housing doing serious damage. Is this all I need to worry about for the time being? I’m not there yet, could monitor and periodically inspect for now.
I also would like to take on this repair myself, wondering if that’s a smart idea. I have all the tools but no lift, I’d be removing and reinstalling the diff on jack stands. As far as my experience level, I’ve replaced radiator, water pump, fuel tank, power steering components, alternator, complete brake jobs, completely overhauled the rear suspension, steering box, etc. Never touched a differential. Can’t be that bad, right? I would imagine there’re a few ‘while I’m at it’ items to do at the same time – seals, etc.
One thing I’d want is a good tutorial on how to do this job. Is there anything out there that someone could point me to? I have the maintenance and assembly manuals, haven’t looked to see what’s in there yet.
Bottom line, can I wait to do this job? Should I take it on or farm it out? Is there a good tutorial out there? Any assistance or related experience would be appreciated.

 

Dropping the differential is not a problem with just jackstands....I can't help much on the rest.

Brian

 

So you've closely inspected the housing behind the yoke where the axle seal is and see no point of wear/contact? If so the repair can wait for the fall.

The diff is rebuilt off the car, not like solid axle cars where you leave the diff in. It can be removed with the car on jack stands.

Search the forum and there should be some rather lengthy diff rebuild threads with pictures. Replacing the yokes is easy unless the ends have mushroomed so they won't slide out. But if you're in there anyway you'll probably want to replace the ring & pinion and bearings. Setting the gears up is a bit of an art, but you can do it.

 

You can easily handle replacing the yokes and 1/8-3/16" is not urgent. Get your parts together and do the job in the off season.

 

Yoke endplay comes from 3 possible areas within the diff. Original 73-79 and the 70-80's service replacement axles are soft and wear out against the hardened posi cross shaft.

The amount of end play you describe is terrible, plain and simple. I consider anything over 020" bad but a stock built posi with axles that have some wear will be in the 040" range. From the end of the axle face to the snap ring is .187"- 3/16. If you are worn down to that point you have to watch for the axle cutting into the 1/8" lip at the seal. It will face into it quickly since the iron is soft.

If it's not hitting and you want to drive it then know your risks. All the ground up metal from the axle face is already in the oil so that won't make any more difference in the equation.

Can you rebuild it? that is up to you and your abilities and how you plan on doing it. I can tell you one thing you can't do it any worst then some I have been sent to correct after being rebuilt. Do your homework and get good parts. Not all the kits sold today are the same in price or quality. Not all rebuilt axles fit when you take them out of the box. I cover all this in my Carlisle seminars although I am not sure I will be attending this year. I may start doing seminars in CT this summer if I have time.

Good luck, this is not a steering box rebearing job.