Rear bushing, poly?
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,445
Likes: 349
From: Athens GA
St. Jude Donor '12-'13, '15- '16-'17-'18-'19, '21
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 1,219
Likes: 364
From: Tolland CT
I was looking into poly bushings for the rear sway bar on my car. I was curious your experience installing them. The urethane bushings are flanged at both ends, meaning you can't get them thru the opening on the swaybar or link. If you bolt them in per the instructions above (right side) you have a metal-on-metal contact from the bar to the link and from the link the seat.
If you use the stock bushings (left side) you have rubber contacts at both side.
Am I reading the installation instructions wrong?
Looking at the picture you provided it would seem that the bushings must either be split and meant to be applied one from each side (this is what I would expect), lined up with the steel inner sleeve, and held in place by the OEM endlink when installed. If the bushings are in fact one piece then it must be intended that the bushing is somehow pushed through the opening of the sway bar. I have seen these types of bushings as well and basically you grease up one end, set it on an angle into the hole at the sway bar and 'screw' it into position with a twisting motion. The material compresses enough that it will thread through the opening and pop into place once it reaches the center section of the bushing.
One thing I can tell you for absolute certain is that there should be no metal to metal contact there.
Last edited by PainfullySlow; May 23, 2019 at 12:17 PM.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 456
Likes: 131
From: England
I was looking into poly bushings for the rear sway bar on my car. I was curious your experience installing them. The urethane bushings are flanged at both ends, meaning you can't get them thru the opening on the swaybar or link. If you bolt them in per the instructions above (right side) you have a metal-on-metal contact from the bar to the link and from the link the seat.
If you use the stock bushings (left side) you have rubber contacts at both side.
Am I reading the installation instructions wrong?
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 107
Likes: 29
From: Pflugerville, TX
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,445
Likes: 349
From: Athens GA
St. Jude Donor '12-'13, '15- '16-'17-'18-'19, '21
Which is why my Van Steel offset TA's have johnny joints on the front.
And my strut rods were replaced with adjustables with heim joint ends.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 107
Likes: 29
From: Pflugerville, TX
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Instructor
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 107
Likes: 29
From: Pflugerville, TX
Much ado about nothing.
Thanks!
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 33
Likes: 13
From: McAllen TX
Thanks Dub for the info on the *adjustable greaseable heim jointed strut rods, I'll look at those for sure. I'm 65 so I remember what the C2 ,C3 vetts rode like new and they drove and handled amazing! I'd like to get mine handling as well as what I remember, I'm changing the body rubbers also. : )
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,007
Likes: 1,114
From: North tonawanda NY
Thanks Dub for the info on the *adjustable greaseable heim jointed strut rods, I'll look at those for sure. I'm 65 so I remember what the C2 ,C3 vetts rode like new and they drove and handled amazing! I'd like to get mine handling as well as what I remember, I'm changing the body rubbers also. : )
That said I use heim joints on my adjustable strut rods myself and poly elsewhere. I bought the cheap adjustable rods that came with the poly ends, then removed those ends and replaced with the correct sized heim joints which cost about $40 on amazon so I was able to do it myself for about $150 total.