Driveshaft for T56 swap
I have a 350 motor with the th400 currently and have a lt1 t56 out of a 97 camaro with all of the conversion parts to use the lt1 clutch stuff, and also the swap cross member. Already installed clutch pedals and master cylinder (huge pain btw).
I have been reading that the yoke is different between the TH400 and the lt1 T56, and that my driveshaft needs to be shortened some. That would need me to have the parts and get it done during the swap.
Is that the best course of action is to get the new yoke and have it modified by a shop during the swap? Or is there another driveshaft that is easier to start with that I can get modified before hand.
It would be nice if there is a driveshaft which just fits, but I couldn't figure out which one exactly and if there is are they hard to find?
any thoughts on the simplest or easiest way to get this done would be appreciated. If possible I would like to get it done before the swap, but if its better to do it during then that is ok too.
I really need to get this th400 out soon as I need an overdrive or 2 in my life
I know I would want the yoke to be one that allows the u-joint to be un bolted from it ( like the facotry one) and NOT have the yoke so that the u-joint is pressed into position and can not be detached from it. This is so you can do service work without any complications in having a hard time trying to get a drive shaft out of the car.
ASSUMING that the T56 is the same..this will let you know how far to install the yoke into it so you can measure and find out how long you need to have your driveshaft made to.
I do not knwo how you can do this until it is installed..unless you want to take measurements.
Starting off with new tube and having driveshaft company build you one is up to you.
DUB
A little pricey around $200 for both but seem like the best option for strength and ease of removal.
I have also found a few 27 spline yokes that use 1330 joints but are not the removable strap type, these are under $100.
I have not pulled the driveshaft before, but I was thinking if the differential side still has the removable straps, wouldn't I be able to undo that side to pull the driveshaft from the car?
If I really do need the removable strap then I will go the Moser route.
I guess I could also have a larger diameter driveshaft made instead of shortening an oem one, will see how much that costs.
A little pricey around $200 for both but seem like the best option for strength and ease of removal.
I have also found a few 27 spline yokes that use 1330 joints but are not the removable strap type, these are under $100.
I have not pulled the driveshaft before, but I was thinking if the differential side still has the removable straps, wouldn't I be able to undo that side to pull the driveshaft from the car?
If I really do need the removable strap then I will go the Moser route.
I guess I could also have a larger diameter driveshaft made instead of shortening an oem one, will see how much that costs.
I believe I have the yoke you need, 27 spline, takes a 1330 u-joint, with straps & bolts. $125 and it`s yours, genuine GM (Spicer) too. send a PM if you or anyone else is interested.
Last edited by redvetracr; May 18, 2018 at 08:49 AM.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...my-79-a-4.html
You must have straps on both sides to remove the driveshaft UNLESS you don't mind asembling the joint under the car, which is what I ended up doing. Not that big of a deal and I think it must be stronger.
Having your yoke be the design that allows the driveshaft to be removed from it is BEST.
I have worked on 2 Corvettes that were modified did not have the correct style yoke in it and it caused for added time in doing such a simple operation as removing the drive shaft.
There is no way for the drive shaft top be disconnected from the rear differential and slide the drive shaft out far enough to get the yoke to come out and then try to slide it forward again. No way to slide it out the back. Too many obstructions in the way.
DUB
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Having your yoke be the design that allows the driveshaft to be removed from it is BEST.
I have worked on 2 Corvettes that were modified did not have the correct style yoke in it and it caused for added time in doing such a simple operation as removing the drive shaft.
There is no way for the drive shaft top be disconnected from the rear differential and slide the drive shaft out far enough to get the yoke to come out and then try to slide it forward again. No way to slide it out the back. Too many obstructions in the way.
DUB
MAKE SURE THE DRIVE SHAFT IS REMOVALABLE. My T56 magnum drive shaft & Yoke for the transmission design make it completely removable.
Last edited by cagotzmann; May 17, 2018 at 10:06 AM.
Yoke with straps is best, yes. Strapless is okay too IMO.
Good thing I checked in with you guys.
I guess I need to decide if I want to make a new driveshaft then or shorten the current one. I have been reading about upgrading to 3" tubing as it's stronger and will fit. I'll get under there later today and see what diameter I have now.
Cagotzmann what diameter is yours or is it the original one modified?
I do like that flange setup, looks nice.
I'll probably do what Derekderek said and get a new one with a 1350 at the trans side and a 1330 at the diff side.
I could also do the 1330 on both sides and use the yoke redvetracr has, but if I am building a new one thinking I might as well go 1350 so that one never breaks.
Last edited by Ali Vette; May 17, 2018 at 12:08 PM.
I would have to watch you take out a u-joint from a driveshaft and put it back in when the driveshaft is still in the Corvette.
I have u-joint press a know how to use it and I wound not even consider trying that. Talk a about a 'cluster ----'.
DUB
2.5" DS with 1330 solid u-joints both ends. The yoke was also purchased from American powertrain. I believe SST also has the parts.

















