Hey guys, I'm having a few problems with my power windows. I got the car (1978 SA) in October of 2017 and I've been facing the issues since I bought it. This is my first time working on any corvette, not to mention one that's 40 years old.

For the driver's side - On the way down, I have to feather the switch because it basically drops down into the door and I'd rather not shatter the glass if I can help it. On the way up, the glass tends to get stuck around 1 1/2" up. I have to go back down and come back up a few times to get it all the way up, so there's probably something wrong with the track/alignment. The window also feels rather loose, I can wiggle it back and forth and it often fails to fit snug against the weatherstripping. Also, when the door is closed, the window fails to go all the way up. There's about 3/4" of space between the top of the window and the top weatherstripping.

For the passenger's side - I expect there's an issue with the motor or lubrication here, as the glass moves very slowly in both directions. When the door is closed, the window will still go up all the way, but it slows down significantly towards the top.It's pretty firm though, and it usually doesn't have a problem falling into place with the weatherstripping.

My dad and I have been fixing small things on the car here and there, but we've neglected the windows because we're not sure quite where to start. Any advice is appreciated.

I'm at work right now, but I'll post pictures of the gaps (and anything else that might be helpful - let me know) tomorrow or Sunday.

Thanks!

 

There are obvious problems...but there is no way in knowing what the exact problem is.

It will require oyu taking off the dour panels and watching what is going on.

You can have badly worn rollers and or the gear on the window regulator. Missing parts and what not. No telling until we get feedback from you.

The passenger side. Lubrication may work but it also can have problems such as an aged motor and worn parts.

This area is really not that bad to work on but that is coming form a guy who has done so many I have lost count.

If the passenger side is better than the drivers side...compare the two and see what is different...such as why can you move the drivers door glass and not the passenger side.

DUB

 

 

the "grease" is more like wax, its so old and gummed up it's the opposite of lube...
I just got done doing mine over the last weekend, it's even hard to get solvant's and degreasers to bite at the stuff its so bad. Next time will try Dawn and hot water.
Take your time re-aligning the glass... it took me about 4 hours to get the glass perfect, you have to fit... re-fit, shut the door, check again, roll it up and down, refit again, do every step a dozen times till it is RIGHT.
Just snug the bolts about 1/8 turn past hand tight for test fitting, the only thing you have to keep fairly tight are the up-limit-stops, once your 100% certain it's all perfect, then tighten everything up and enjoy some Uber fast/smooth windows and reduced / eliminated wind noise.

Oh... and a lot of compliments from other C3 owners jelouse of how well your glass fits

 

Automotive grade lacquer thinner will get the factory lube they used in the tracks out. I use it when I need to clean out the tracks. To date..it has never failed me.

3M's 8984 will also do the trick if you want to waste it in that area.

Wax and grease remover used on the final prepping for paint job will also work...but that is if you also want to waste it in this area.

And when I write 'waste it'...it is in regards to the cost of each product per ounce.

DUB

 

Hello Onewiththecake,
WEAR GLOVES WHEN CLEANING THE WINDOW GLIDE TRACKs!!!
The track edges can be VERY Sharp.
You will NOT be able to see a lot of the Track Area, thus You will have to feel around.
There will be two Verticle Tracks (ft & back) and one Horizontal (center)
As DUB suggests - I also use "Lacquer-Thinner" along with paper towels.

 

Wearing gloves is smart...but I moderately saturate the shop towel and push it into the track and slide it up and down so I am not near any sharp edges and let the thinner do its job.

I also place a shop towel at the bottom of the tracks IF I am cleaning them while they are still in the car and the window is UP.

AS for the long horizontal track that is secured to the door glass and also the short one used to tilt the glass. I generally just apply my lube on the long horizontal one and as for the short one. I sometimes take it out due to it is easy to do it and apply my lube and reinstall it.

DUB

 

Here's what's inside:




Final adjustment is explained in the AIM.

 

i tried using Berryman's carb cleaner, which is usually ends-all for grease/oil...
painter grade wax/grease remover
and painter grade acetone

all had the effect of: once you got the surface grease removed where the liquid could get between the grease and the metal, it would cause it to start releasing from the metal, but not actually dissolving it.

im curious what can actually cut the stuff, going to try gasoline, diesel fuel and dawn this next door.... surely something can cut it

i did NOT try automotive lacquer thinner, i didn't have any on hand, will have to try that as well

would be nice to find something that can cut it quick

 

I wouldn't have even thought about wearing gloves. Thanks for letting me know.

 

Just like anything that has hardened up and has a shell on it so-to-speak. It will take some time for whatever is used to penetrate that substance and get it off.

I have also used Solder Seal Gunk's NM-I electric motor contact cleaner.

For me ..lacquer thinner really does it and I do not waste a lot of time on it. YES. Sometimes where the crap is really stubborn. I will take one of my plastic picks and get under it to pop it off or get it loose and go back into with my towels an lacquer thinner.

DUB