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Old Jun 8, 2018 | 08:41 PM
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Default New Everything Electrical Question

I have a totally new wiring harness installed.
No fuses are installed yet.
Key in off position.
All wires landed except for starter signal wires.

I just installed the battery. When I landed the neg batt wire the horn relay clicks. No horn just the relay clicking.

Is this normal?

Also need starter wiring instructions. Starter has positive on one big post and wire to motor on other big post, check. I have a yellow, purple and red wire life over in the harness and only one small post available on the starter. Which goes where?
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Old Jun 8, 2018 | 09:46 PM
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Yellow goes to the R terminal.
Purple to the S terminal.
If you have a BLACK wire it connects to a bell housing bolt.
The reds go to the top solenoid terminal.
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Old Jun 8, 2018 | 09:47 PM
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Hope this helps .
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Old Jun 9, 2018 | 01:09 AM
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I don't think a clicking relay is normal is the horn button stuck?
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Old Jun 9, 2018 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
I don't think a clicking relay is normal is the horn button stuck?
I don't know. The horn did not go on just the click. I guess I will have to check the button part.
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Old Jun 9, 2018 | 05:34 PM
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The horn relay should only click on when the horn button is pressed. Otherwise, it will discharge the battery.

The starter would be red to the big battery post, and purple to the small stud. The yellow goes to the coil. If you have points then you can use a big diode or relay to connect it. If you updated to electronic ignition then you don't need it.
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Old Jun 9, 2018 | 05:55 PM
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Since I have a MSD I do not need the yellow wire going to the coil.

The purple is the signal for the solenoid.

I pulled the black and green wires from the relay for now and will come back there later.

I have another problem now and I have only begun to connect circuits.

Still have no fuses in the panel. When I pull the HL switch the high beam light on the dash is on. Push the hi-low switch and its still on. No headlights come on though. Checked the hi-low switch and its good. Replaced the headlight switch since I had an extra and it still stays on with no headlights either hi or low?

I think its time for a beer.
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Old Jun 9, 2018 | 09:00 PM
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It's ALWAYS time for beer.
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Old Jun 9, 2018 | 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
It's ALWAYS time for beer.
Had a beer and came back for more issues...

Headlights don't work. Hooked a ground wire to the HL switch ground and a 12V tester to the green wire going to the headlights in the loom along the fender. Got 12V, yay.

Hooked the tester ground to the ground block at the radiator surround and tested the same green wire circuit and nothing???

Tested the ground at the radiator shroud for continuity to the negative of the battery, good.

Ground at the HL switch to battery neg, good.

Ran a wire from the HL switch ground to the radiator surround ground and the Headlights come on?

I think there is bad juju in this corvette.

Both grounds go to the battery negative. Only one completes the circuit???
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Old Jun 10, 2018 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by MBrianB
Had a beer and came back for more issues...

Headlights don't work. Hooked a ground wire to the HL switch ground and a 12V tester to the green wire going to the headlights in the loom along the fender. Got 12V, yay.

Hooked the tester ground to the ground block at the radiator surround and tested the same green wire circuit and nothing???

Tested the ground at the radiator shroud for continuity to the negative of the battery, good.

Ground at the HL switch to battery neg, good.

Ran a wire from the HL switch ground to the radiator surround ground and the Headlights come on?

I think there is bad juju in this corvette.

Both grounds go to the battery negative. Only one completes the circuit???
Have you checked and/or replaced all chassis grounds?

Jebby
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Old Jun 10, 2018 | 12:46 PM
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Everything on this build is new. That's the good part.
I was not the one who installed it. That's the bad part.

What I do not understand is when I connect my test light to the horn relay hot point I get 12V at the radiator surround (grounded) and at the HL ground (grounded).

Those two ground points have continuity to each other and each to the battery neg. Headlights only go on when I connect another ground to the radiator surround. I just don't get it.
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Old Jun 10, 2018 | 04:06 PM
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And please do not neglect the front starter to block bracket shown above. If yours is missing get a new one. This takes a lot of stress off the back of the starter and keeps it from moving and messing up your starter location in relationship to the flywheel. Also, don't reuse your old starter bolts. They should be knurled and new. Take a look at the bolts you took out and I bet your the knurled part is worn down. This knurl keeps the bolts aligned in the head of the starter and also keeps them from backing out. I always use new starter bolts.
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Old Jun 10, 2018 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by MBrianB
Everything on this build is new. That's the good part.
I was not the one who installed it. That's the bad part.

What I do not understand is when I connect my test light to the horn relay hot point I get 12V at the radiator surround (grounded) and at the HL ground (grounded).

Those two ground points have continuity to each other and each to the battery neg. Headlights only go on when I connect another ground to the radiator surround. I just don't get it.
The only thing I can think is that the HL ground you speak of is insufficient. Enough to light a 1amp test light but not a 10amp Headlight circuit when functioning.

Jebby
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Old Jun 10, 2018 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
The only thing I can think is that the HL ground you speak of is insufficient. Enough to light a 1amp test light but not a 10amp Headlight circuit when functioning.

Jebby
I spent two days on this problem. I think the problem is that the entire frame and all attaching parts are powder coated and there is no metal to metal contact anywhere.

I installed a new ground wire from the radiator surround to a place that did have a good frame ground and the lights work. I was not about to go around and take every bolt and nut out and grind off the coating.

Horn relay is still a problem. Took off the black grounding wire (that goes to the horn button) and the green wire still has power to it. There must be a short in the relay.
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