110 amp altenator
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
110 amp altenator
I'm thinking of replacing the altenator on my 72 non A/C, non power window, basic vette. Is 110 amp too much, should I stick with a 63 amp?
#2
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2011
Location: North of Toronto - Ontario
Posts: 10,853
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Basically you can't have too much amps as it'll only draw what it needs.
That said, unless you're having issues (electrically) with the stock alt not keeping up, there is little or no benefit to upgrading it at this time.
M
That said, unless you're having issues (electrically) with the stock alt not keeping up, there is little or no benefit to upgrading it at this time.
M
#3
Race Director
Are her ***** too big? Do you have too much money? It has a regulator. It won't overcharge any more than a 40 amp alternator will.
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies. My altenator is starting to make a bearing whine, that's why I want to replace it. Wasn't sure if to much amperage would harm the battery.
They're big, but not too big. Never have enough money, especially when rebuilding a C3.
#5
Unless your planning on going to electric fans, the stock unit should be fine. If you have a trusted local re-builder, I would just take it there. If you do go with an upgrade, make sure you modify the wiring for a heavier gauge wire to handle the additional amperage flow that the electric fans would draw.
#7
Race Director
And since a 100 amp is usually the same price as a 40, and easier to find...
#8
Melting Slicks
If all else in the original alternator is okay, why not just replace the main bearing in it (this is the usual culprit in a noisy alternator) most likely cost you less than $10. Fairly straightforward project, plenty of how to's online, the hardest part is usually getting the pulley nut undone, easiest with an air impact wrench.
#9
Team Owner
If you don't need all that current capacity, just get an 80-100 amp alternator...whichever is least expensive. I just picked up an 80 amp, chromed, 1-wire alt for about $100. It's bigger than I need; but the wiring can take full load for a short time without blowing the fusible link.
#10
Race Director
DO NOT THROW THE OLD ONE AWAY OR RETURN FOR CORE!!! Unless it is a 80's 90's rebuilt already. Check the part numbers-date codes for the 2 frames.
#12
Le Mans Master
If still using stock 3 wire system be sure to get a 3 wire replacement vs the 1 wire version.
#13
Team Owner
Explanation, please....
#14
Team Owner
SI series alts have the flat white plug on the back edge, that's the regulator and idiot light for the dash.....the output stud is obvious, and my cooling fans have a direct wire to the control relay on top of them....the CS series alts have a lot more connection points that I don't know why, as just one brown wire in the middle of the points goes to the dash light......I have a 17 SI on my '72 vette, with serp drive......it's 108 amp rated so hooks up just like a stock alt.....a CS144 is ~140 amp rated, and unless you running it in a camper van, I can't see the need for that....