Steering coupler Installation
07-05-2018, 11:52 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Steering coupler Installation
I purchased a steering coupler (from Zip Corvette) and I wish to replace it. I remived the severely worn original by removing the steering box. The new coupler slid on easily. However when I put the box with the coupler attached back in the car, the flange on the column cannot be fitted due to no space between the splined end of the column and the coupler. The flange on the column slid off easily. It appears that I will have to pull the column back enough to get the flange on. I removed the coupler by removing the steering box to avoid collapsing the column. My question is since I did not collapse the column, will my pulling back the column collapse it? I chose the box removal in hopes of not having to mess with the column but will have to anyway.
Last edited by Oldguard 7; 07-05-2018 at 11:55 PM. Reason: add more words
07-06-2018, 02:20 AM
#2
I purchased a steering coupler (from Zip Corvette) and I wish to replace it. I remived the severely worn original by removing the steering box. The new coupler slid on easily. However when I put the box with the coupler attached back in the car, the flange on the column cannot be fitted due to no space between the splined end of the column and the coupler. The flange on the column slid off easily. It appears that I will have to pull the column back enough to get the flange on. I removed the coupler by removing the steering box to avoid collapsing the column. My question is since I did not collapse the column, will my pulling back the column collapse it? I chose the box removal in hopes of not having to mess with the column but will have to anyway.
07-06-2018, 10:01 AM
#4
Race Director
You should not have any concerns about collapsing the column when you go to slide the flange of the steering column onto the new steering coupling.
When I do these I take a good look before I start to make sure the flange at the bottom of the column is where it needs to be so the rubber ring is flat when it is installed and not warbled.
Hind sight being what it is.. I always pull the steering column on these. I have tried it the way you did it and it is much more of a pain in my backside to get it to all line up when wresting with the gearbox.. For me the steering column is much easier and faster.
I would also suggest that you use the old factory nuts...due to they are UNIQUE and use a 9/16 socket for both nuts...unlike the nuts given with your new coupling One takes a 9/16 socket and one takes 1/2" socket.
DUB
When I do these I take a good look before I start to make sure the flange at the bottom of the column is where it needs to be so the rubber ring is flat when it is installed and not warbled.
Hind sight being what it is.. I always pull the steering column on these. I have tried it the way you did it and it is much more of a pain in my backside to get it to all line up when wresting with the gearbox.. For me the steering column is much easier and faster.
I would also suggest that you use the old factory nuts...due to they are UNIQUE and use a 9/16 socket for both nuts...unlike the nuts given with your new coupling One takes a 9/16 socket and one takes 1/2" socket.
DUB
07-06-2018, 12:19 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
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Its interesting about the wrench sizes being different.....yet I think the thread diameter is the same. I wonder why they did that?
07-06-2018, 01:56 PM
#6
Race Director
So the installation of the coupling is 'idiot proof' and everything is basically 'keyed' and indexed. With two different size studs that go through the flange at the bottom of the steering column...There is but only one way for the coupling to attach to it......unless a person is an idiot and drills out the smaller hole in the flange so they are the same size.
DUB
DUB