Steve

 

Lockers: About the best for guaranteeing a no back-out condition. I like that. Easier than using a drilled head and safety wire anyway.
Thanks for the link Lars.

Steve

 

Relatively low torque settings for aluminum heads/manifolds is an important consideration.

Steve

 

Yeah, I sprinkle AeroKroil on like Holy Water and luck out occasionally too.

Steve

 

I'm fortunately living in a city big enough to have large nut and bolt stores and a local Summit Racing

Lars mentioned that stage 8 locking setup. They only work with smaller headers like 1 5/8th

I went to Allen when I moved to 1 3/4th headers. Ive also done completely Allen motors with kits like this

just use anti seize

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Small-Block-Chevy-Stainless-Engine-Bolt-Kit,7101.html?sku=91303840&utm_medium=CS EGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEG OOGLE&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqPDaBRC6ARIsACAf4hDG YALoeYtuEPOeZvGaOtmgnf5p-DIE6A1AE4s82Gs0fgRZ9ymXbmIaAvIaEALw_wcB

 

I tried all the trick stuff and kid's stuff over the years up through safety wiring the header bolts. but when it comes down to the very best is studs. That way you never have to worry about cross threading your expensive aluminum heads.

ARP universal header studs with 5/16th hardend black nuts. It is all I use for about the past 15 years.



Just add a dab of red high temp Permatex. Even my ARP head studs are Allen with 12 point cap nuts. In the picture are AFR 210 heads and Hooker supercomp 1 3/4 headers.

 

That's correct, which is why I don't use the locking hardware - just the dual-purpose head bolts.

And here's why I use the 6-point, small-hex bolts with the added allen head feature:
You guys with small block Chevys have it made. There isn't a tough header bolt to get to on a SBC - it's so easy you can install the bolts with a box wrench, and even use studs. You can install SBC headers blindfolded with minimal effort. On other brands, it's different. I work on all musclecars and engines, and here is what I deal with any time I work on headers. Try to use a 12-point bolt in these locations, where you can't get the box wrench onto the bolt head. Where there is no straight-in access at all to the bolt. Or where the bolt must be accessed through the wheel well opening with a 2-foot extension and an allen tool. Or imagine installing studs on one of these engines... (Bolts shown are the Stage 8 bolts, shortened to fit this application. ONly access to the 3 photo locations shown are with an open-end wrench. Other locations can only be accessed using an allen wrench on a long extension):

 

Problem solved

http://bondhus.com/bondhus_products/...-wrenches.html

 

Indeed it is! Thanks Fred.
We learn something new every day.

Steve

 

I just took a box end wrench and ground it to make the ring end thinner....so it would slip on easier

 

I use the 1 inch 5/16 ARP studs that was mentioned above. Easy to get to and never back out.

 

I have Stage-8 locking bolts on my headers and they have been quite wonderful. If I was to do it today, then I would buy some of these:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-910120

It just looks like an easier mechanism to use for locking. AND I would use anti-seize liberally both on the inside threads and the outside of the header bolt.

 

Innovative product; that's for sure!

Thanks.
Steve

 

I have had allen bolts for 30 years now . Would have to tighten them once in a while when i would hear a ticking sound usually when driving close to a guard rail . Now I just check them once in a while and haven't had any problems .

 

 

Since they last like forever; I'd even consider getting them in Stainless Steel.... heck, they last forever and only get torqued to like 25-30 ft-lbs.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...SABEgKrL_D_BwE