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now to spice things up alittle - i decided to try the mounts without the preload plate and the engine ends up sitting a good 10 mm lower, a fair drop - you can see where the paint has been scraffed off compared to other pics above, the issue is, is it ok to run without this preload plate? - i phoned energy suspension today and they said its ok to run without the preload plate, aslong as the engine mount is bolted to a flat suface, which the ls swap plate seems to be - iam thinking its better to run in its lowest postion possible - thoughts anyone?
ps - will need to check steering rack fits ok, engines not to low lol - will check tomorrow
Last edited by corvettedave383; Sep 17, 2018 at 02:12 PM.
Here is where the t56 ends up with 1" forward. You are going to be very close to hitting the tunnel with stock location and a t56. It might make it, but it is going to be super tight.
Calm but curious! As you go lower, accessory clearance with the control arms becomes more of an issue. However you get better driveshaft alignment and more room in the tunnel. You need to make sure when the motor torques over, nothing hits. Were you able to insert the motor mounting bolts?
[QUOTE=BrewNinja;1598000564
Here is where the t56 ends up with 1" forward. You are going to be very close to hitting the tunnel with stock location and a t56. It might make it, but it is going to be super tight.[/QUOTE]
the brackets iam using place the LSX in the exact same position as sbc, interms of forward and backward , so no issues there, only if LSX is still sitting higher than sbc there might be an issue
Last edited by corvettedave383; Sep 17, 2018 at 06:22 PM.
Calm but curious! As you go lower, accessory clearance with the control arms becomes more of an issue. However you get better driveshaft alignment and more room in the tunnel. You need to make sure when the motor torques over, nothing hits. Were you able to insert the motor mounting bolts?
yes the alternator does come closer to the lower a arm mounts, looks like there's enough room for engine movement, but will have to wait and see on that one, yeah the motor mounting bolts slip right in there with ease, no issues
Last edited by corvettedave383; Sep 17, 2018 at 06:23 PM.
the brackets iam using place the LSX in the exact same position as sbc, interms of forward and backward , so no issues there, only if LSX is still sitting higher than sbc there might be an issue
Its actually the same as in relation to the bellhousing, not the entire engine (just an important clarification point). The problem is actually the tranny. The T56 is a much larger transmission than what came out. If you were dropping the original tranny back in, then yes, those mounts would be perfect. But you aren't. Just thought I would give you fair warning. I put in steroids at the same time and I had to use the backing plates. I wouldn't have enough clearance otherwise (with an fbody oil pan).
I have run those motor mounts on a few projects and didn't use the extra plates. No issues. It's been awhile since I've had a set in my hands but on the back side of the mount is there a bulge that would seem to keep the mount from bolt down flat against the motor mount plate? I may be confusing that mount with a stock mount.
Its actually the same as in relation to the bellhousing, not the entire engine (just an important clarification point). The problem is actually the tranny. The T56 is a much larger transmission than what came out. If you were dropping the original tranny back in, then yes, those mounts would be perfect. But you aren't. Just thought I would give you fair warning. I put in steroids at the same time and I had to use the backing plates. I wouldn't have enough clearance otherwise (with an fbody oil pan).
ahh very interesting about the steeriods, ive got holley oil pan https://www.holley.com/products/acce...ns/parts/302-3 - what exact oil pan have you got?
I will try bolting the steeroids rack back up tomorrow see if it fits
I have run those motor mounts on a few projects and didn't use the extra plates. No issues. It's been awhile since I've had a set in my hands but on the back side of the mount is there a bulge that would seem to keep the mount from bolt down flat against the motor mount plate? I may be confusing that mount with a stock mount.
ahh thanks for your feed back, yes its got the bulge on my mounts as well, so cant use a complete flat plate, just concerned the mount was going to flex more and lead to faliure
Once you determine the mount location I would take a grinder or cut a hole in the engine mount to make room for the bulge. On another note I used a Fbody pan and front accessories. The only clearance problem I had was on the water pump heater inlet and outlets. I was concerned that the fbody pan hung down a bit low. Lower than the frame cross member. I didn't have a problem but since I did a Borgesen steering box conversion I believe a batwing oil pan would provide much better ground clearance. The cast aluminum pan on LS engines is very strong and will crack your block if you hit something hard. Those two long bolts in the back of the pan are very close to oil galleries.
Once you determine the mount location I would take a grinder or cut a hole in the engine mount to make room for the bulge. On another note I used a Fbody pan and front accessories. The only clearance problem I had was on the water pump heater inlet and outlets. I was concerned that the fbody pan hung down a bit low. Lower than the frame cross member. I didn't have a problem but since I did a Borgesen steering box conversion I believe a batwing oil pan would provide much better ground clearance. The cast aluminum pan on LS engines is very strong and will crack your block if you hit something hard. Those two long bolts in the back of the pan are very close to oil galleries.
thanks for your info and tips
gearbox issue - yes you are correct, the T56 is a tight fit, already had to cut a bigger hole for the shifter, if there ends up being clearance issues, will just cut the trans tunnel and make it bigger, make the T56 fit - has anyone else done an LS swap with a T56 gearbox??
the engine mounts i have already come with a gap for the bulge, so all sorted there
heater inlet and outlet - yes ive got that issue just now, i can get a piece of paper through the gap lol - what did you do? - iam not going to be using my heater in car, so was going to loop it , maybe cut them alittle shorter or ??
oil pan - my holley oil pan has a slimer pan, so dont think it will be an issue, see how that one goes
Alternator - was your one real close to the engine mount edge? - mine is, so i grind alitte of that edge to allow some space, need to get engined starter to see how much it swings by
interms of oil pan and steeriods its fine, its miles away, about 1 inch clearance, i think my holley oil pan is really helping there big time - engine is in its lowest position
Last edited by corvettedave383; Sep 19, 2018 at 12:07 PM.
A bit off topic but I spent a number of trips working on and then selling cartooning machines and case packing machines at the that Chivas plant and then the Johnny Walker plant in Glasgow. Enjoyed every minute of it. Does John Nimmo ring a bell?
A bit off topic but I spent a number of trips working on and then selling cartooning machines and case packing machines at the that Chivas plant and then the Johnny Walker plant in Glasgow. Enjoyed every minute of it. Does John Nimmo ring a bell?
ahh cool, i know Glasgow very well, lived there for a few years, now live just north of it, nope not heard of John Nimmo?
Update - thats gearbox back in now, had to wait a few weeks to get new flywheel/clutch - lsx has a 8 bolt crank, so took some time to get parts
so we are now onto the driveline angles subject, which is alittle confusing from what ive read on here so far - concerning weather diff should point up or down?
used the tremec angle finder app - not sure how good it is??
engine/trans - 3 degrees down - had to shim the T56 up at the tail to get that angle - could go even higher, but would have to start cutting up trans tunnel
propshaft - 3 degrees up towards diff
diff - 1 degree down (but doesnt look that way), looks like its going up, maybe iam wrong
thoughts on my angles? - the diff angle doesnt seem to add up
any thoughts welcome
Last edited by corvettedave383; Oct 9, 2018 at 01:25 PM.
They should be in parallel, if you do a google search on driveline angles there are some good examples and reasons why/why not regarding angles.
I was just referencing these since swapping a different rear end in and trying to determine height needs to be and angles.
They should be in parallel, if you do a google search on driveline angles there are some good examples and reasons why/why not regarding angles.
I was just referencing these since swapping a different rear end in and trying to determine height needs to be and angles.
yeah ive read that, but some info says it ok to have the diff going down and gearbox going down, this is why its alittle confusing, if i went up more with my diff angle to get it parallel with gearbox angle, my propshaft would end up with an even steeper angle which cant be right, its how to measure these angles precisely is key
