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I've tried 3 different sets of actuators and couldn't get them to pull the lock open/closed, but I'll be making my 4th attempt over the winter. :cheers:
I'm not sure if it was actuator or just how i mounted them up, working inside the door is a PITA... I got the Commando kit, and the MES kit. Neither one would move the lock at all when i had it attached to the rod that goes into the armrest. I'm going to have to figure out another way of mounting it.
If anyone has done it to a car where the lock hardware is on the inside of door, please let me know how you did it... thanks :)
I re-did my powerlocks 2 years ago. I removed the play and rattle of the manual lock override and its linkages and re-installed them by drilling new holes for the same actautors and re-installed them with bolts (after testing the electric GM actuators for stroke etc) into a new direct vertical-up position (without the manual linkage and knee-joints etc). I fabricated the right length of new (elephant wire) pushrod and I also removed each of the (remote) door locks and combined them by using one single (5-prong) switch for common operation, that I installed in the the central console. I further installed on each door panel a 12V LED light that would lit upon closing (I parallel-wired it with the closing action of the momentary actuator-relay operation). This way I could see if the doors were being locked or unlocked. I have no manual car lock or unlock any more and if you uncomfortable with it, don't lock the doors when you are inside the car. After that I went to a car security company that installed the siren, hood and door switches ($250) with battery relay lock out etc anda remote operation of my (now) central relay-switch door locking system It works like a charm. It was not difficult and unfortunately I did not take any pics, of the removed view of the door panel to show you. I f you want I could send some pics via E-mailof car interior views, when I get my digital camera back next weekend. Good luck!