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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 11:45 AM
  #21  
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I removed the cruise control release switch from the brake pedal retaining bracket Then tightened up the screws on the switch retaining bracket. I haven't had a problem since then with the brake lights staying on. I'm not putting the switch in the line if I can help it. Everything seems ok at this point.
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 11:57 AM
  #22  
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 12:05 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Fix the return spring or just add another one so that the pedal comes back on its own. Excuse my "French", but doing what you are doing is just goofy in response to the real problem you have. Suppose you go ahead with your plan and sometime later, the seal on the master cylinder plunger fails on the side where you have that switch plumbed. That side won't build pressure and you won't have any brake lights!!! Is that how you want this to work???

Brake lights should come on whenever the brake PEDAL is depressed....without exception (unless you want to get rear-ended when you have a failure of the M/C or that switch).
If your brakes fail, why do you need a stop light on?
Hard to get rear ended when you can't stop.
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 01:26 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
If your brakes fail, why do you need a stop light on?
Hard to get rear ended when you can't stop.

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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 11:30 PM
  #25  
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That's why you have a DUAL master cylinder...so that if either the front or rear brake set "springs a leak" [ie, can't build brake fluid pressure], the other half of the system is still operational.



Street Rat: Good work!

Last edited by 7T1vette; Nov 5, 2018 at 11:31 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 12:31 AM
  #26  
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In fifty years of driving, I have never had a brake failure, nor do I know anyone that has.

The odds are of that brake switch experiencing failure is zilch.
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