Where to place switch?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
Where to place switch?
I'm adding a pressure activated brake switch. I'm placing it in one of the brake lines coming off of the master cylinder. Which line should I splice it in? The 3/16 or the 1/4? There shouldn't be any difference in using either one. Is this correct ?
Craig
I got the parts together today. Flared a new 1/4" rear brake line about six inches down and added the fittings to put in the switch.
Craig
I got the parts together today. Flared a new 1/4" rear brake line about six inches down and added the fittings to put in the switch.
Last edited by Street Rat; Sep 11, 2018 at 01:18 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 797
Likes: 156
From: England AR
Didnt want to use a prop valve with one built in?
as far as which, i would go front lines, the smaller, they work the hardest so they have the highest psi
as far as which, i would go front lines, the smaller, they work the hardest so they have the highest psi
Last edited by naramlee; Sep 12, 2018 at 08:20 AM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
I just put a new (stock type) combination valve on the car not long ago.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,668
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From: St. Charles Mo
CI 5 & 8 Veteran
Probably small difference as long as it is before proportion block
Last edited by Bullshark; Sep 12, 2018 at 09:23 AM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
I have a spare 3/16" brake line here also.
I haven't started working on the car at this point.
I'll fab a 3/16" brake line with the switch in it.
I will have to bleed the front brakes after the installation of the new brake line.
I've already got the car up so I can get to the combination valve connection.
Going out to create or destroy something now
I haven't started working on the car at this point.
I'll fab a 3/16" brake line with the switch in it.
I will have to bleed the front brakes after the installation of the new brake line.
I've already got the car up so I can get to the combination valve connection.
Going out to create or destroy something now
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
Well I'm waffling again. The 1/4" line that I made is just the right length. I'm going to stick with using that line rather then make a new 3/16" line. It looks like a little bit more room to work with the rear line also.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
Originally Posted by Bikespace
How do you make sure you don't trap air in the dead-end and make your brakes spongy? Mount it facing down?
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Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
My brake lights were staying on. The problem was the return spring was weak. I don't know how I could possibly get to it. Even with the column out.
The switch would have activated the brake lights by hydraulic pressure. The new hydraulic switch would replace the electrical switch at the pedal. So no more pedal drag on the electrical brake switch.
The switch would have activated the brake lights by hydraulic pressure. The new hydraulic switch would replace the electrical switch at the pedal. So no more pedal drag on the electrical brake switch.
Last edited by Street Rat; Nov 3, 2018 at 04:39 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Athens GA
St. Jude Donor '12-'13, '15- '16-'17-'18-'19, '21
My brake lights were staying on. The problem was the return spring was weak. I don't know how I could possibly get to it. Even with the column out.
The switch would have activated the brake lights by hydraulic pressure. The new hydraulic switch would replace the electrical switch at the pedal. So no more pedal drag on the electrical brake switch.
The switch would have activated the brake lights by hydraulic pressure. The new hydraulic switch would replace the electrical switch at the pedal. So no more pedal drag on the electrical brake switch.
Cool idea.
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Fix the return spring or just add another one so that the pedal comes back on its own. Excuse my "French", but doing what you are doing is just goofy in response to the real problem you have. Suppose you go ahead with your plan and sometime later, the seal on the master cylinder plunger fails on the side where you have that switch plumbed. That side won't build pressure and you won't have any brake lights!!! Is that how you want this to work???
Brake lights should come on whenever the brake PEDAL is depressed....without exception (unless you want to get rear-ended when you have a failure of the M/C or that switch).
Brake lights should come on whenever the brake PEDAL is depressed....without exception (unless you want to get rear-ended when you have a failure of the M/C or that switch).
Last edited by 7T1vette; Nov 4, 2018 at 04:12 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,445
Likes: 353
From: Athens GA
St. Jude Donor '12-'13, '15- '16-'17-'18-'19, '21
Fix the return spring or just add another one so that the pedal comes back on its own. Excuse my "French", but doing what you are doing is just goofy in response to the real problem you have. Suppose you go ahead with your plan and sometime later, the seal on the master cylinder plunger fails on the side where you have that switch plumbed. That side won't build pressure and you won't have any brake lights!!! Is that how you want this to work???
Brake lights should come on whenever the brake PEDAL is depressed....without exception (unless you want to get rear-ended when you have a failure of the M/C or that switch).
Brake lights should come on whenever the brake PEDAL is depressed....without exception (unless you want to get rear-ended when you have a failure of the M/C or that switch).
Give the guy a break, will you?
Pressure activated brake light switches are in millions of USA cars. Mainly an old usage but still not a "goofy" idea.
A quick search came up with this.
Peace
https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hm...s/3748686.html
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Eustis ( Area 51 Bat Cave ) Fl
When i first saw this thread i didnt post because i didnt have anything to add,
But my thought what a cool fix, as im no real fan of how gm did it, i love threads that think outside the box.
But my thought what a cool fix, as im no real fan of how gm did it, i love threads that think outside the box.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
Maybe I should listen to your advice because...
You have only thanked TWO people since you have been here in 12 years.
And with 908 thanks you must know everything there is to know about Corvettes.
You have only thanked TWO people since you have been here in 12 years.
And with 908 thanks you must know everything there is to know about Corvettes.
Last edited by Street Rat; Nov 5, 2018 at 09:46 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,427
Likes: 1,560
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Don't Rube Goldberg it up!
Yes! Those hydraulic switches were popular from back in the thirties but the master cylinders were single reservoir.
Your Corvette has a duel reservoir M/C.
If you don't know how to fix the spring bring the car to a C3 repair shop and let them fix it.
Your Corvette has a duel reservoir M/C.
If you don't know how to fix the spring bring the car to a C3 repair shop and let them fix it.