Breakin Oil
10-14-2018, 02:13 PM
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Breakin Oil
I have a recently built stroker engine with FLAT TAPPETS that has been broken in.. Can I continue to use break-in oil or switch to regular full synthetic, partial synthetic or just regular oil?
Or maybe the simplest question, can I continue to use break-in oil after engine has been broken in? Positive or negative results?
Thanks
Or maybe the simplest question, can I continue to use break-in oil after engine has been broken in? Positive or negative results?
Thanks
10-14-2018, 02:25 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
Do you have a catalytic converter? Break-in oil with high zinc will harm it over time.
Not knowing what you are running but your break-in oil is probably missing some additives you would rather have.
Not knowing what you are running but your break-in oil is probably missing some additives you would rather have.
10-14-2018, 02:45 PM
#3
Advanced
Thread Starter
No catalytic converter! Headers, pipes and flow-master.. That's it! When I purchased the car it was recommend Comp Oil which I think it partial synthetic, but didn't realize after break-in, it would need other additives other than what break-in oil provides. I want to change the oil before I store it for the winter.
10-14-2018, 04:50 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2017
Location: Cool Northern Michigan
Posts: 6,904
Received 2,128 Likes
on
1,635 Posts
stingr69 is correct but failed to mention that tests back in the 1990s or so proved it took over 60,000 miles for that to happen to the cat. Even so, who cares?
The labels on oil bottles is a "cover your ***" approach by oil companies to keep the Feds (EPA) from stopping production and sales of oils with Zinc, which happened not all that long ago. If the label uses terms like Break-In or Racing Only or Not For Street Use, it protects the manufacturer and puts the judgement of use onto the purchaser. It assumes the consumer will only use that oil as for it was intended. (ya right)
By all means you can use Break-In oil for 500 miles, 1,0000 or 2,000 miles, 5,000 miles. There is nothing in the ingredients that will harm anything. Its all good stuff. However, you want to keep in mind that assembly lube, any grease, rag lint, shop towel lint and any metal grit must be removed after break-in. This can be done by changing the oil filter only, right away. Or do a complete drain & fill.
Just make sure what ever brand you buy contains enough Zinc for that flat tappet.
I will say one thing about Synthetic oils. It was designed for longevity. It was designed so people didn't have to change their oil so often. Its designed to run 5,000 miles on up. In my opinion, Syn oil has no place for a car that sits in the garage most of the time, collecting maybe 500-1,000 miles a yr. So ask yourself, are you changing the oil on your C3 or any classic car, two, three, four times a yr? I think not. So why bother with Syn?
I love Syn oil in my daily (22,000 yr) driver. But it has no reason to be in my (< 1,000 miles a yr) C3.
Mineral oil w/ Zinc, all the way!
The labels on oil bottles is a "cover your ***" approach by oil companies to keep the Feds (EPA) from stopping production and sales of oils with Zinc, which happened not all that long ago. If the label uses terms like Break-In or Racing Only or Not For Street Use, it protects the manufacturer and puts the judgement of use onto the purchaser. It assumes the consumer will only use that oil as for it was intended. (ya right)
By all means you can use Break-In oil for 500 miles, 1,0000 or 2,000 miles, 5,000 miles. There is nothing in the ingredients that will harm anything. Its all good stuff. However, you want to keep in mind that assembly lube, any grease, rag lint, shop towel lint and any metal grit must be removed after break-in. This can be done by changing the oil filter only, right away. Or do a complete drain & fill.
Just make sure what ever brand you buy contains enough Zinc for that flat tappet.
I will say one thing about Synthetic oils. It was designed for longevity. It was designed so people didn't have to change their oil so often. Its designed to run 5,000 miles on up. In my opinion, Syn oil has no place for a car that sits in the garage most of the time, collecting maybe 500-1,000 miles a yr. So ask yourself, are you changing the oil on your C3 or any classic car, two, three, four times a yr? I think not. So why bother with Syn?
I love Syn oil in my daily (22,000 yr) driver. But it has no reason to be in my (< 1,000 miles a yr) C3.
Mineral oil w/ Zinc, all the way!
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; 10-15-2018 at 04:42 PM.
10-14-2018, 06:03 PM
#5
Advanced
Thread Starter
Thanks guys for your valuable input. I ended up getting some Lucas synthetic 0W-40. Not because it's synthetic, but because it was on sale at actually a very good price. What I was looking for they didn't have. According to Lucas it's rated at 1265 Zinc PPM.. Hopefully I did good.
And thanks HeadsU.P. for going into much better detail! I put about 3000 miles on it, and may get another few hundred until storage.
And thanks HeadsU.P. for going into much better detail! I put about 3000 miles on it, and may get another few hundred until storage.
Last edited by John Swift; 10-14-2018 at 08:07 PM.
10-15-2018, 09:10 AM
#6
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: altered state
Posts: 81,242
Received 3,043 Likes
on
2,602 Posts
St. Jude Donor '05
Lucas is good, Mobil 15/50 is a good syn with more of what a flat tappet cam needs.
I dont believe the "cure in a can" products but Lucas stuff works.
THeir ps additive and trans "non slip" flat out works. Keeps electronic trans from sticky solenoid issues.
I dont believe the "cure in a can" products but Lucas stuff works.
THeir ps additive and trans "non slip" flat out works. Keeps electronic trans from sticky solenoid issues.
10-15-2018, 09:59 AM
#7
Race Director
The subject of engine oils is often times heated subject.
I know that for me and what I use in the engines at my shop that are flat tappet....or even a roller motor. I consider all aspects of the oil including the NOACK test
Look at POST # 10 in the thread below and you can do your own research and see if what you are using is worthy or not.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...with-zddp.html
DUB
I know that for me and what I use in the engines at my shop that are flat tappet....or even a roller motor. I consider all aspects of the oil including the NOACK test
Look at POST # 10 in the thread below and you can do your own research and see if what you are using is worthy or not.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...with-zddp.html
DUB