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I feel like an idiot for having to ask this question, but here goes. I've got a quick jack, and I've tried a few different spots to lift the car, but every time I do, the driver's door get shoved up into the window channel and won't open. Is that normal on these? The lift goes just about wheel to wheel, and I'm lifting it on the frame right under the doors, about six inches behind each wheel.
From what I've gathered, due to frame flex, you should have the doors open and the t-tops unlatched. As for lifting points, under the engine cradle and in front of the rear wheels. Jack stands on the frame in front of the doors and in front of the rear wheels and in front of the steers if you are elevating the car for an extended period of time.
I'm sure there will be somebody along that knows exactly where to lift and support the car.
Jeff
Do not place the jack in the center of the engine cradle/cross member, it will dent. You can straddle the cross member with a thick piece of wood front to back or place the jack directly on the front edge or rear edge of the cross member. I have never needed to open doors or roof panels when jacking up the car. Jack up the front and place two jacks on the frame forward of the doors and then jack up the rear at the lower spring bracket and place two jacks rearward of the doors.
Thanks for the tips guys. Perhaps I should post a picture or two to better describe where I'm lifting. The quick jack has rubber lift blocks on it, and they're going about six inches inward of either wheel on both sides. That sounds like what you're describing.
Do not place the jack in the center of the engine cradle/cross member, it will dent. You can straddle the cross member with a thick piece of wood front to back or place the jack directly on the front edge or rear edge of the cross member. I have never needed to open doors or roof panels when jacking up the car. Jack up the front and place two jacks on the frame forward of the doors and then jack up the rear at the lower spring bracket and place two jacks rearward of the doors.
That's exactly how I do it. Of course you are using a Quick Jack so not sure how that works. Maybe post some pictures.
I feel like an idiot for having to ask this question, but here goes. I've got a quick jack, and I've tried a few different spots to lift the car, but every time I do, the driver's door get shoved up into the window channel and won't open. Is that normal on these? The lift goes just about wheel to wheel, and I'm lifting it on the frame right under the doors, about six inches behind each wheel.
Caskiguy, thanks for the diagram. I wasn't too sure about the cradle, but I had seen posts saying to lift there, but it seemed an odd place to lift. I'm glad you set the record straight.
jeff
Caskiguy, thanks for the diagram. I wasn't too sure about the cradle, but I had seen posts saying to lift there, but it seemed an odd place to lift. I'm glad you set the record straight.
jeff
I used the 4 next to the wheels on @caskiguy 's diagram when I put it on my 2 post lift a couple weeks ago. I forgot to unlatch the TTops and the doors. Perhaps I was lucky ... no fiberglass cracks.
Last edited by shaark92; Oct 31, 2018 at 09:16 PM.
I lift mine all the time on my scissor lift hoist using the points just in front of the rear wheels and just before the frame kicks up behind the front wheels. Never had any issues with opening/closing doors, t tops, or anything else. I've left it up for weeks, and I stick it on the hoist every week or two just to check things over. I'd be concerned if I had issues with the doors that I might have a problem with a weakened body or frame.
I lift mine all the time on my scissor lift hoist using the points just in front of the rear wheels and just before the frame kicks up behind the front wheels. Never had any issues with opening/closing doors, t tops, or anything else. I've left it up for weeks, and I stick it on the hoist every week or two just to check things over. I'd be concerned if I had issues with the doors that I might have a problem with a weakened body or frame.
See, that was my concern, too. It has no rust, its a real clean frame. The door seals are shot, so there is nothing to keep the window from shooting up, and the pins and bushings could stand to be replaced. I'm hoping it comes down to that; because it is only the driver's door that I'm having issues with, the passenger opens and closes just fine.