A pillar weatherstrip gap
11-06-2018, 01:18 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
A pillar weatherstrip gap
Sorry, not at home so no pictures now, but when my driver side window is up it has a tight seal at the bottom of the A pillar and a tight seal at the top. The middle, however has a noticeable (like a business car) gap between the window and the weatherstrip.
It's a reproduction window and I've always thought it was shaped a little differently, but this may prove it.
Suggestions on which way to maneuver the window so it still rolls up without digging into the weatherstrip but creates a seal in the middle?
Or is there any adjustment in the weatherstrip channel to pull it out?
I didn't put the weatherstrip in so I'm not sure how it is held in place.
It's a reproduction window and I've always thought it was shaped a little differently, but this may prove it.
Suggestions on which way to maneuver the window so it still rolls up without digging into the weatherstrip but creates a seal in the middle?
Or is there any adjustment in the weatherstrip channel to pull it out?
I didn't put the weatherstrip in so I'm not sure how it is held in place.
Last edited by BarryB72; 11-13-2018 at 04:58 PM.
11-13-2018, 03:50 PM
#2
You could remove the weather strip from the retaining molding, first mark with a grease pencil or the like where the gap needs to be tighter.
Remove the weatherstrip, use a piece of 1/16-1/8" thick 3/4 -1" wide foam weatherstrip and put it on the reverse of the a pillar molding... if you need 1/4 in the middle tapering to 1/8 at either edge of the dip then use 1/8 the length then in the middle double it for whatever you feel is appropriate, reinstall and check.
First use a straight edge and check from side to side... one vs the other. OR use a sheet of cardboard. lay it on the glass trace the edge and compare one to the other.
Remove the weatherstrip, use a piece of 1/16-1/8" thick 3/4 -1" wide foam weatherstrip and put it on the reverse of the a pillar molding... if you need 1/4 in the middle tapering to 1/8 at either edge of the dip then use 1/8 the length then in the middle double it for whatever you feel is appropriate, reinstall and check.
First use a straight edge and check from side to side... one vs the other. OR use a sheet of cardboard. lay it on the glass trace the edge and compare one to the other.
Last edited by firstgenaddict; 11-13-2018 at 03:50 PM.
11-13-2018, 06:52 PM
#4
Race Director
Trying to bend a piece of stateliness steel trim to fix this is more than likely pointless. IF the w/strip is sealing and not allowing water to get in. I would leave it due to trying to adjust the w/strip track to achieve perfection can be a waste of time. You are trading one gap for another.
Not only that. The window can be adjusted to allow what you see to make it fit better in the channel groove of the pillar post w/strip and you would never know it was even there.
If the glass is not cut correct...then that is what that is and chalk that up to another part that was not made correctly for a person who wants it to perfection....which I can CLEARLY relate to.
DUB
Not only that. The window can be adjusted to allow what you see to make it fit better in the channel groove of the pillar post w/strip and you would never know it was even there.
If the glass is not cut correct...then that is what that is and chalk that up to another part that was not made correctly for a person who wants it to perfection....which I can CLEARLY relate to.
DUB
11-13-2018, 07:01 PM
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
No, it's not water tight. The gap also exists in to out in addition to forward to backward. I can almost see daylight from inside. Already have the door panel off though and looking forward to adjusting the window.
11-14-2018, 06:12 PM
#6
Race Director
So much of this depends on IF when you put your door glass all the way UP. Does the door glass move in and out a lot. If it does then it is your rollers and thus any adjustments are pointless.
DUB
DUB