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I joined this forum mainly because the book I bought is crap! Sorry but don’t buy a Haynes repair Manuel. Anyways I changed all the bushings and bearings on strut rods trail arms spindles. Etccc. Prob is when I torqued the spindle nut down the emerg brakes have the keeper spring. And the lug nut heads on the back of spindle catch on that spring. Removed it all more then once to try to fig out what’s causing it. 🙁🤬🤬🤬no luck. I have 2000 on pass. Side and 3000 on driver side for end play. So I figured I spaced it right with the shaft tool. Why’s it dragging. Any help PLEASE PLEASE!!!!!!!!
I joined this forum mainly because the book I bought is crap! Sorry but don’t buy a Haynes repair Manuel. Anyways I changed all the bushings and bearings on strut rods trail arms spindles. Etccc. Prob is when I torqued the spindle nut down the emerg brakes have the keeper spring. And the lug nut heads on the back of spindle catch on that spring. Removed it all more then once to try to fig out what’s causing it. ��������no luck. I have 2000 on pass. Side and 3000 on driver side for end play. So I figured I spaced it right with the shaft tool. Why’s it dragging. Any help PLEASE PLEASE!!!!!!!!
John, again welcome to the Corvette Forum...
1) You say that you rebuilt the trailing arm spindles, (rear wheel bearings?) Did you also install new wheel studs at the same time by chance?
2) You say you have 2000 and 3000 for end play. Are you saying .002 and .003 clearance on the bearings?
3) When you say "...the lug nut heads on the back of spindle catch on that spring"(emerg brakes have the keeper spring). Are you referring to the springs that the arrows are pointing to in the picture below?
Unless you changed out the studs with ones with larger heads on them, I'm not sure how the springs holding the parking brake shoes could be hitting them. If you used the stock retaining pins and not some generic replacement ones that are longer, the assembled springs should be the same length they were before you disassembled the parking brake.
Is it possible you are confusing not enough bearing clearance with the heads of the studs hitting the retaining springs?
Gusto
you are correct with the retainer springs. I put new emerg. Brake kit from Willcox and new races and new bearings. Yes .002 and .003 endplay. It is the rear bearings. New seals. I seated the outer bearing. Then put the new spacer kit from Willcox in and then the inner seal and beating. I have taken it apart and put back together 2-3 times. As far as I can tell the bearings are seated. Really hard to see that part. Sorry for the confusion on first entry. I hope I cleared it up somewhat. I even checked to see the retainer pins and springs matched the old ones. No I did not replace the lug bolts. Now that I have wrote all this I’m sure I did something wrong. Just don’t know what.
John, It sounds like the axle is being drawn into the hub farther than it should be in order to hit the parking brake in any fashion. That or the Parking brake assembly is somehow spaced too far out from the control arm.
You might want to send a PM(personal message) to Gary(GTR1999), and ask him for his thoughts. He knows the rear end in these cars as well as anyone on the Forum and is always willing to share his knowledge.
I can say FROM EXPERIENCE that the heads of the wheel studs that are in the spindle MAY BE domed and NOT FLAT like the original spindles were made..
IF your wheel studs have domed head ....I have ground the head down somewhat flat.
Even though your got your wheel bearing to .002" and .003" run-out. Which is within the specs. Getting them to -0- is best due to they ill wear in in time and what you have set as the run-out will increase by .002"+ or so.
Have you run a dial indicator on your spindle to see if it is tweaked and not true??? I have had some spindles that were .020" out due to the wheel was curbed at one time or another.
Also spend the time to index your rotors and shim if needed to get the run-out of the rotors correct.
A much closer bearing run-out and rotor run out can aid in longer brake caliper life as long as teh fluid is also maintained.
The head of your wheel studs should look like this and be flat.
Ok folks first off my parts don’t look as pretty as yours. But I’m buyin new as often as I can.
Dub. I checked the heads of lugs they match your pic just dirtier. Lol I also put dial indicator on trail arm and checked spindle for trueness. I have about .002 on it when I spin the spindle. I don’t know if that’s with in tolerance?? But it’s prytey true I believe. I’m going to post pic of where I’m at with it. Don’t yall laugh at the paint or dirty parts. I’m tryin.
I ended up putting a tiny wire around the counter sink head of the pin for the breake shoestring retainer. It was just enough that I now have about 1/8” maybe when the spindle rotates that clears the lug heads. Sorry for the confusion. Dial indicator set up. Tryin to show the distance between spindle and shoes.
The last photo looks about right in regards to the gap.
FOR WHAT IT IS WORTH:
I have many original pins for the park brake shoes that I keep and when I get a new stainless steel park brake kit. I stand the originals up on flat surface and then put the new stainless pins beside it and see if they are the same. SOMETIMES the smashed end of the pin is poorly made and is not the same and can effect how far out the cup can go. Sometimes they are smashed so thin it makes me wonder if I am going to have a problem so I have to get another set from another supplier. Then I look at the cupped cap and see what it looks like due to the stamping has a lot to be desired.. The I put the cap on the pin and measure its length to see if it matches the factory set-up.
If I see a problem I usually put a really thin stainless washer onto the pin to get it to where I want it.
And then I take careful look at the raised metal round pads on the dust shield to make sure they are not all bent outwards also and that the area where the pins come through the dust shield are also correct.
Help !!!!!
