Tools needed to rebuild front suspension...
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 2,358
Likes: 519
Tools needed to rebuild front suspension...
Hey All,
Soon going to replace the stock arms with tubular arms...
AFAIK, other than typical hand tools, one needs a spring compressor and pickle forks, right?
It probably makes sense to replace the tie rod ends, sway bar bushing and end links (shot) and the idler arm if it has any play in it.
MTIA,
DC3
Soon going to replace the stock arms with tubular arms...
AFAIK, other than typical hand tools, one needs a spring compressor and pickle forks, right?
It probably makes sense to replace the tie rod ends, sway bar bushing and end links (shot) and the idler arm if it has any play in it.
MTIA,
DC3
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
I’ve done many and never used a spring compressor. You can lower the arm enough for the spring to come out. Pickle fork yes. I do have a lift also which helps a lot but not necessary.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: WI
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,153
Likes: 341
At one time in my career I started stocking up on tools (and knowledge) to do front end work before deciding to leave it to others (and focus on what I'm good at, electrical)
I don't think you'll get away without air tools including a good impact gun, air chisel & hammer. You've got bolts that have spent 40 years corroding in place. Wrenches are often useless in removing them. Big rivets holding ball joints in. And that air hammer requires a serious compressor, not some Hazardous Freight pancake.
Single most important thing I learned was how to "shock" a tapered tie rod end loose instead of pounding on it, pickle forks, etc. You apply some leverage and smack both sides simultaneously with hammers. (This requires 3 hands or a helper, although I once saw a co-worker do it with the lever wedged on his shoulder) One well synchronized hit and you're done. In contrast you can sit there all day pounding on a pickle fork.
Front end work is dangerous. You can knock a car off a lift or off jackstands with the forces you're applying. If you're having to use too much force, too long a pry bar, you're probably doing it wrong. I wasted time studying for and passing the ASE test on front end which taught me NOTHING useful about how to actually do this sort of work, just the theory. (So much for certifications, eh?)
The only way I'd do it again would be under supervision of a master, in a shop, using a lift. Garage or driveway, no way. I'm a wussy, I guess. But I've still got all my fingers.
I don't think you'll get away without air tools including a good impact gun, air chisel & hammer. You've got bolts that have spent 40 years corroding in place. Wrenches are often useless in removing them. Big rivets holding ball joints in. And that air hammer requires a serious compressor, not some Hazardous Freight pancake.
Single most important thing I learned was how to "shock" a tapered tie rod end loose instead of pounding on it, pickle forks, etc. You apply some leverage and smack both sides simultaneously with hammers. (This requires 3 hands or a helper, although I once saw a co-worker do it with the lever wedged on his shoulder) One well synchronized hit and you're done. In contrast you can sit there all day pounding on a pickle fork.
Front end work is dangerous. You can knock a car off a lift or off jackstands with the forces you're applying. If you're having to use too much force, too long a pry bar, you're probably doing it wrong. I wasted time studying for and passing the ASE test on front end which taught me NOTHING useful about how to actually do this sort of work, just the theory. (So much for certifications, eh?)
The only way I'd do it again would be under supervision of a master, in a shop, using a lift. Garage or driveway, no way. I'm a wussy, I guess. But I've still got all my fingers.
Last edited by wadenelson; Dec 16, 2018 at 05:18 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 9,261
Likes: 950
From: Lake Tahoe, CA
[QUOTE=DorianC3;1598511755]Hey All,
Soon going to replace the stock arms with tubular arms...
AFAIK, other than typical hand tools, one needs a spring compressor and pickle forks, right?
It probably makes sense to replace the tie rod ends, sway bar bushing and end links (shot) and the idler arm if it has any play in it.
MTIA,
DC3[/QUOTE Take pictures and mark the tie rod ends (measure) before removal. If you remove all the steering linkage take it out in one piece but measure everything TWICE.
You'll need a good small sledge and pickle fork to undo the joints.
Also be aware that since the motor is out (right ?) you'll need weight or downforce to reset the new springs into the A-arms. You can also find that within my post 70 Rebuild has begun. Just so you get an idea of what I mean.
]http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/corvette-spring-compressor-on-a-budget
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-begun-14.html
Be careful even though with this method it's a breeze you have to kick out the spring from the pocket when fully relieved of tension (while chain is still attached) it still can shock you and bounce a bit.
Safety First !
Soon going to replace the stock arms with tubular arms...
AFAIK, other than typical hand tools, one needs a spring compressor and pickle forks, right?
It probably makes sense to replace the tie rod ends, sway bar bushing and end links (shot) and the idler arm if it has any play in it.
MTIA,
DC3[/QUOTE Take pictures and mark the tie rod ends (measure) before removal. If you remove all the steering linkage take it out in one piece but measure everything TWICE.
You'll need a good small sledge and pickle fork to undo the joints.
Also be aware that since the motor is out (right ?) you'll need weight or downforce to reset the new springs into the A-arms. You can also find that within my post 70 Rebuild has begun. Just so you get an idea of what I mean.
]http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/corvette-spring-compressor-on-a-budget
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-begun-14.html
Be careful even though with this method it's a breeze you have to kick out the spring from the pocket when fully relieved of tension (while chain is still attached) it still can shock you and bounce a bit.
Safety First !
Pro
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 708
Likes: 150
From: Minnesota
Dorian - do yourself a favor and just buy a complete tie rod kit with ends and new tubes. Remove the old units and you can measure them and clock the new ones correctly. Just mark PS and DS. They are not expensive and a relaxing benchtop project. Basic set of pickle forks - I have one for ball joints and a smaller one for rod ends. New units bolt right in. INTERNAL Coil spring compressors are helpful (some do without). External are no help as there isn't enough room. Your going to new A-arms will tackle the worst part of the job automatically and new ball joints will bolt into place. Don't forget shims, and just try to get it close to original until allignment. I also found it helpful to get a new set of a-arm bolts and related hardware to make the job go back together cleaner, but your may come with hardware. Good Luck - with a little prep it isn't a bad job. Also, sway arm end link kit for front (should come with new bolts) as you will probably twist or cut those off during removal.
Last edited by JoeMinnesota; Dec 16, 2018 at 05:57 PM.
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Lars
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Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 707
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From: Pitman NJ
I rebuilt my entire front end, with little difficulty, it was a weekend project. I purchased all the parts from RockAuto. The only thing other then regular hand tools, was a pickle fork, BFH and an air chisel.
The hardest part, at least for me, was removing the lower ball joints. I also removed the upper and lower bushings with an air chisel. The new ones were hammered in using a socket. But since you are replacing with tubular ones, I'm assuming that they already have the bushings and ball joints already installed.
I removed the springs by lowering the lower control arms with a floor jack. The upper passenger side was a pain, because my AC compressor was in the way.
The hardest part, at least for me, was removing the lower ball joints. I also removed the upper and lower bushings with an air chisel. The new ones were hammered in using a socket. But since you are replacing with tubular ones, I'm assuming that they already have the bushings and ball joints already installed.
I removed the springs by lowering the lower control arms with a floor jack. The upper passenger side was a pain, because my AC compressor was in the way.
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From: Long Island
I did both on my C3' while on jack stands with hand tools over a weekend - not rushing.
I used a floor jack under the A arm to get the springs out - no issues.
The only tools that is a must is FREEZ-OFF spray for the rusted nuts - spray them the day before and again when starting and a 3' breaker bar. (6 point sockets)
I used a Milwaukee dremmel type tool to grind off the rivets.
A local shop charged me $80 to remove and press the A arm bushings in. They had the tool and used a press.
I used a floor jack under the A arm to get the springs out - no issues.
The only tools that is a must is FREEZ-OFF spray for the rusted nuts - spray them the day before and again when starting and a 3' breaker bar. (6 point sockets)
I used a Milwaukee dremmel type tool to grind off the rivets.
A local shop charged me $80 to remove and press the A arm bushings in. They had the tool and used a press.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 2,358
Likes: 519
Thanks, Gents !!!!
What a fantastic amount of information here.
The machine shop will close for the Xmas season and will only be able to return my cross shafts by mid-Jan.
In the meantime I have enough information here to start disassembling my front end. While I’m at it I can clean and detail the engine bay.
I clearly won’t need a compressor to get the coils out. That’s good. I am worried about bashing a pickle fork with a BFH. I’ll try leveraging-and-popping first.
If that doesn’t work, I may order that ball joint, tie rod press.
Stay tuned !
What a fantastic amount of information here.
The machine shop will close for the Xmas season and will only be able to return my cross shafts by mid-Jan.
In the meantime I have enough information here to start disassembling my front end. While I’m at it I can clean and detail the engine bay.
I clearly won’t need a compressor to get the coils out. That’s good. I am worried about bashing a pickle fork with a BFH. I’ll try leveraging-and-popping first.
If that doesn’t work, I may order that ball joint, tie rod press.
Stay tuned !
Team Owner
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