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Hi,
I'll do my best to explain this...
(69, Auto, 350/300, no AC, PS, PW)
After a chassis restore and all new wiring I've got to the point that I wanted to fire it up. It's been about a year from last running and about everything is new or has been rebuilt. As the engine turns over fuel starts to gush and bubble out of the top of the fuel filter and fuel to carb line connection. The line is not loose and is aligned with no issues of threading or anything like that. The fuel pump joint is fine, the bottom of the fuel filter joint is fine....its just the top. I disconnected the carb to filter line and the carb end is bone dry...as if it's being blocked and not making it to the carb. There seems to be a good amount of pressure that's being forced out of the top filter line joint. I'm not sure where to go with this?? The lines and filter are new and the Carb was rebuilt by LARS. The sharpie is pointing to the area that fuel is being forced out.
Not sure what fuel lines you are using as they look new. On my 69 427 I bought the filter to carb line in stainless and there was no way that line would seal on the filter. I tried backing the nut off and on tighter and tighter repeatedly and lubing it up to try and get it to seal on the aluminum AC filter with no success. The stainless line was too hard to conform and seal to the filter. The filter fitting finally broke from too much torque before it would seal. I went back to a standard steel line and another filter and there was no problem. Those AC filters are not cheap either....
If it's a standard steel line just apply some lube and tighten it down another eighth of a turn until it seals.
Last edited by CanadaGrant; Dec 23, 2018 at 12:08 AM.
I would look at the flare seats on both the filter and pipe for any knicks, deformaties, out of round, or just not flared properly. I have two sets of lines that leaked at the fuel pump because of mis flared ends- one steel, one stainless.
If the car were in my shop, the first thing I'd do would be to back off the nut a little bit and then re-torque it, it may take a couple of times...
The flare may not be seating in the filter...
You can put a small amount of lubricant on the threads and on the flare which will also help it seat.
I've tried to seat and reseat and the last few times it was really tighter than I thought it should be - I really torqued it down. I'll try it again today. I have an older filter to try to.
Thanks everyone for responding, I'll keep at it today. It will be a year ago Christmas that it was taken apart and I was hoping to have it running by Christmas. I'll see if I can get some better photos of the flairs on the lines.
Got it! ...and start up! I put some oil on it and threaded it on an off a few times about as tight as I could get it.
Seems to run smoothly but high rpm. Lars adjusted everything so Im not sure where to start just yet and I'll likely have more questions but I'll start another thread if I can't seem to work through it.
For what it is worth.....On the Corvettes with this fuel filter set-up and DO NOT have the smog pump mounted on the engine. There is NO strap or bracket to securely hold the fuel filter in place so it is DANGEROUSLY able to be moved or knocked. I make a bracket that will allow me to use the correct strap that goes around the fuel filter like you can see in the photo below where I have a yellow arrow pointing to it.
For what it is worth.....On the Corvettes with this fuel filter set-up and DO NOT have the smog pump mounted on the engine. There is NO strap or bracket to securely hold the fuel filter in place so it is DANGEROUSLY able to be moved or knocked. I make a bracket that will allow me to use the correct strap that goes around the fuel filter like you can see in the photo below where I have a yellow arrow pointing to it.
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DUB
Hey DUB! Thanks for bringing the strap up...I've been thinking about the bracket also as a concern. I was thinking about making one but I'd really love to see what your solution or design is, or to buy one from you?? My goal would be simple and to make it look like it somewhat belongs.
Contact Lars for his timing and vacuum advance papers
I'm going to contact Lars to see if there was something I was missing but figured I'd wait until after the holidays, I did however find the culprit - I think. The air cleaner base of all things...its just touching the linkage no allowing it to come all the way down in one spot if it's not set down just right. It's not a whole lot either, but enough to keep the idle high. So I need to find out where the interference is and see if there's something I can do. Perhaps a small hammer tap to provide some relief. Other than that, it seems to run very smooth!
I make these with car right beside me so I can fit it to it due to I do not have any specific plans on how to make it up on the fly. I do know that when I am done the support I made can not twist or rotate and it is solid and will not move...regardless if I use only one bolt to hold it on with a portion of the metal I use to make it having a locking tab that will keep it from rotating or if I use two bolt holes to make the bracket support solid. I believe ...if my memory serves me correctly I used the top water pump bolt as one point to secure it and one of the threaded areas in the cylinder as the other. All I know when I get done it is solid and will not move.
I guess I might need to slow down and get plans made so I can just wing them up when needed.
69 fuel line/filter/carb problem
Other than that, it seems to run very smooth!