Rebuilding Control Arms... Ouch...
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 2,979
Likes: 332
From: Woodinville WA
Rebuilding Control Arms... Ouch...
I got to do a little bit of rust remediation inside the engine bay this weekend and just hitting everything with some high pressure air made most of the rubber bushings of my driver's side control arm go flying out. -They're in absolutely TERRIBLE shape.
I've only started to investigate removing and rebuilding the control arms and WOW, it looks like a whole lot of pain. -VTech charges $850 plus two way shipping for them to rebuild a set so I'm assuming that this is pretty painful.
I don't have a hydraulic press and drilling out rivets sound like the kind of thing I could majorly screw up. How doable is this?
Are there obvious upgrades that should be made at this point?
-Jegs has upper control arms that are adjustable brand new for $193 each and whatever these are for $242 each....
https://www.jegs.com/i/Specialty-Pro...619f35fb0b1ef4
https://www.jegs.com/i/Specialty-Pro...5b72803a767f17
Adam
I've only started to investigate removing and rebuilding the control arms and WOW, it looks like a whole lot of pain. -VTech charges $850 plus two way shipping for them to rebuild a set so I'm assuming that this is pretty painful.
I don't have a hydraulic press and drilling out rivets sound like the kind of thing I could majorly screw up. How doable is this?
Are there obvious upgrades that should be made at this point?
-Jegs has upper control arms that are adjustable brand new for $193 each and whatever these are for $242 each....
https://www.jegs.com/i/Specialty-Pro...619f35fb0b1ef4
https://www.jegs.com/i/Specialty-Pro...5b72803a767f17
Adam
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
I just have to say in High School I bought a new one at a dealer for $32.00
It's just basic skills. Not rocket science.
Grind the heads off the rivets. Use a air chisel to knock out the bushings.
Use a spreader when knocking them back in. It's all the the shop manual.
It's just basic skills. Not rocket science.
Grind the heads off the rivets. Use a air chisel to knock out the bushings.
Use a spreader when knocking them back in. It's all the the shop manual.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,454
Likes: 977
From: RI, Now Franklin/Nashville TN
Adam,
I did my OEM control arms upper and lower about 10 years ago and went with poly urethane from prothane...Best thing I ever did to tighten up the handling and steering response but little effect on ride quality.
The upper control arms are relatively easy...just need to remove the upper ball joint from the steering arm spindle, and the 2 nuts holding the cross shaft...this is a simplistic explanation but it is not that hard.
The lower control arm bolts to the frame, requires removal of the lower ball joint, sway bar endlink, shock removal, AND coil spring removal. It is a lot more work and you need to be careful with the spring removal.
I messed around with removing the control arm bushings and pressing in one of the poly ones before deciding it was a ton of work, if you don't have the proper tools. I took the control arms to a local machine shop and had them remove and install the new poly control arm bushings for about $25 per arm or $100 for all 4 control arms plus $50 for the poly control arm bushings, upper and lower. Did the whole deal for about $150 for 4 control arms..lots of labor.
I did my OEM control arms upper and lower about 10 years ago and went with poly urethane from prothane...Best thing I ever did to tighten up the handling and steering response but little effect on ride quality.
The upper control arms are relatively easy...just need to remove the upper ball joint from the steering arm spindle, and the 2 nuts holding the cross shaft...this is a simplistic explanation but it is not that hard.
The lower control arm bolts to the frame, requires removal of the lower ball joint, sway bar endlink, shock removal, AND coil spring removal. It is a lot more work and you need to be careful with the spring removal.
I messed around with removing the control arm bushings and pressing in one of the poly ones before deciding it was a ton of work, if you don't have the proper tools. I took the control arms to a local machine shop and had them remove and install the new poly control arm bushings for about $25 per arm or $100 for all 4 control arms plus $50 for the poly control arm bushings, upper and lower. Did the whole deal for about $150 for 4 control arms..lots of labor.
Last edited by jb78L-82; Jan 2, 2019 at 06:59 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 2,979
Likes: 332
From: Woodinville WA
Adam,
I did my OEM control arms upper and lower about 10 years ago and went with poly urethane from prothane...Best thing I ever did to tighten up the handling and steering response but little effect on ride quality.
The upper control arms are relatively easy...just need to remove the upper ball joint from the steering arm spindle, and the 2 nuts holding the cross shaft...this is a simplistic explanation but it is not that hard.
The lower control arm bolts to the frame, requires removal of the lower ball joint, sway bar endlink, shock removal, AND coil spring removal. It is a lot more work and you need to be careful with the spring removal.
I messed around with removing the control arm bushings and pressing in one of the poly ones before deciding it was a ton of work, if you don't have the proper tools. I took the control arms to a local machine shop and had them remove and install the new poly control arm bushings for about $25 per arm or $100 for all 4 control arms plus $50 for the poly control arm bushings, upper and lower. Did the whole deal for about $150 for 4 control arms..lots of labor.
I did my OEM control arms upper and lower about 10 years ago and went with poly urethane from prothane...Best thing I ever did to tighten up the handling and steering response but little effect on ride quality.
The upper control arms are relatively easy...just need to remove the upper ball joint from the steering arm spindle, and the 2 nuts holding the cross shaft...this is a simplistic explanation but it is not that hard.
The lower control arm bolts to the frame, requires removal of the lower ball joint, sway bar endlink, shock removal, AND coil spring removal. It is a lot more work and you need to be careful with the spring removal.
I messed around with removing the control arm bushings and pressing in one of the poly ones before deciding it was a ton of work, if you don't have the proper tools. I took the control arms to a local machine shop and had them remove and install the new poly control arm bushings for about $25 per arm or $100 for all 4 control arms plus $50 for the poly control arm bushings, upper and lower. Did the whole deal for about $150 for 4 control arms..lots of labor.
-I have a machine shop I really like, FINALLY and only 20-30 minutes from my house so if I run into trouble that's a definite possibility.
Any thoughts on Del-A-Lum bushings for stock-style control arms? -I've been looking at the Global West catalog... Looks like I'd need some minor welding done on top of the normal press-in procedure to use them.
Also curious about whether GlobalWest's offset upper a-arm shaft is useful as a general rule or is just for specialty applications?
Adam
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 2,979
Likes: 332
From: Woodinville WA
That thread is fantastic! Thanks!
-I can give the AutoZone bushing remover/installer tool and my impact a try.
Adam
Last edited by NewbVetteGuy; Jan 2, 2019 at 07:22 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,116
Likes: 598
I got to do a little bit of rust remediation inside the engine bay this weekend and just hitting everything with some high pressure air made most of the rubber bushings of my driver's side control arm go flying out. -They're in absolutely TERRIBLE shape.
I've only started to investigate removing and rebuilding the control arms and WOW, it looks like a whole lot of pain. -VTech charges $850 plus two way shipping for them to rebuild a set so I'm assuming that this is pretty painful.
I don't have a hydraulic press and drilling out rivets sound like the kind of thing I could majorly screw up. How doable is this?
Are there obvious upgrades that should be made at this point?
-Jegs has upper control arms that are adjustable brand new for $193 each and whatever these are for $242 each....
https://www.jegs.com/i/Specialty-Pro...619f35fb0b1ef4
https://www.jegs.com/i/Specialty-Pro...5b72803a767f17
Adam
I've only started to investigate removing and rebuilding the control arms and WOW, it looks like a whole lot of pain. -VTech charges $850 plus two way shipping for them to rebuild a set so I'm assuming that this is pretty painful.
I don't have a hydraulic press and drilling out rivets sound like the kind of thing I could majorly screw up. How doable is this?
Are there obvious upgrades that should be made at this point?
-Jegs has upper control arms that are adjustable brand new for $193 each and whatever these are for $242 each....
https://www.jegs.com/i/Specialty-Pro...619f35fb0b1ef4
https://www.jegs.com/i/Specialty-Pro...5b72803a767f17
Adam
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Race Director
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From: Tampa, Florida
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 1,939
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From: NSW, Australia
C3 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
I've recently put the del-a-lum bushings in my stock lower arms to go with my global west upper arms. I'm very happy with them, but yes they require a little welding - if you were reading the review on summit, that was me. I don't agree that solid bushings are only for race cars, I drive my car a lot. I think the rubber body mounts on our cars serve to eliminate most of the vibration from the driver anyway.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 223
Likes: 20
From: jim thorpe pa
i did the same with a torch, then while you are in there, replace the upper shafts with the moog offset ones, but have them machined with a 1/4" slot for more caster Search the threads for the offset arms and modifications
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,454
Likes: 977
From: RI, Now Franklin/Nashville TN
I have no experience with the solid control arm bushings but very happy with the poly ones from prothane. They have been on now for over 10 years, greased them when installed, and they really tightened up the handling and steering response with little to no decrease in ride quality or any noise......I definitely would not use rubber control arm bushings again because with as much slop there is in the suspensions of these cars, anything and everything you can do to tighten the suspension pivot points is a big bonus......
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 19,227
Likes: 1,672
From: Long Island
I took mine to a local shop that has a press and the tools. I also trust their work. I got the Moog replacements from Rock Auto - get the problem solvers for the top swivel .
Cost me $125 and some bagels. They even painted them black for me.
Cost me $125 and some bagels. They even painted them black for me.
Last edited by BLUE1972; Jan 2, 2019 at 10:10 PM.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 664
Likes: 89
From: Marysville Ohio
Adam
If you are still interested in the Global West arms with Delrin or Delarum bushings, see this thread I started last summer:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...one-thing.html
Post 21 is probably the most important one, especially if you use the 550-lb springs instead of stock. You have to change out the A-arm spring seat that comes with the arms - I think part #4013,but call Global West to confirm.
Bottom line, I would do it again - but l most things with these cars, you need to go into it armed with some information, and the understanding that very few things are a straight-forward bolt in. Before doing this, I had stock arms with 550-lb springs, Bilstiens, Heim jointed strut rods and a (I think) 360-lb composite rear spring. new arms and composite bushings offer a lot more castor and very little flex in the front - The handling is night and day better (it was good before) - my 79 really sticks to the road now!
If you are still interested in the Global West arms with Delrin or Delarum bushings, see this thread I started last summer:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...one-thing.html
Post 21 is probably the most important one, especially if you use the 550-lb springs instead of stock. You have to change out the A-arm spring seat that comes with the arms - I think part #4013,but call Global West to confirm.
Bottom line, I would do it again - but l most things with these cars, you need to go into it armed with some information, and the understanding that very few things are a straight-forward bolt in. Before doing this, I had stock arms with 550-lb springs, Bilstiens, Heim jointed strut rods and a (I think) 360-lb composite rear spring. new arms and composite bushings offer a lot more castor and very little flex in the front - The handling is night and day better (it was good before) - my 79 really sticks to the road now!
Last edited by cooper9811; Jan 3, 2019 at 05:52 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,454
Likes: 977
From: RI, Now Franklin/Nashville TN
Adam
If you are still interested in the Global West arms with Delrin or Delarum bushings, see this thread I started last summer:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...one-thing.html
Post 21 is probably the most important one, especially if you use the 550-lb springs instead of stock. You have to change out the A-arm spring seat that comes with the arms - I think part #4013,but call Global West to confirm.
Bottom line, I would do it again - but l most things with these cars, you need to go into it armed with some information, and the understanding that very few things are a straight-forward bolt in. Before doing this, I had stock arms with 550-lb springs, Bilstiens, Heim jointed strut rods and a (I think) 360-lb composite rear spring. new arms and composite bushings offer a lot more castor and very little flex in the front - The handling is night and day better (it was good before) - my 79 really sticks to the road now!
If you are still interested in the Global West arms with Delrin or Delarum bushings, see this thread I started last summer:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...one-thing.html
Post 21 is probably the most important one, especially if you use the 550-lb springs instead of stock. You have to change out the A-arm spring seat that comes with the arms - I think part #4013,but call Global West to confirm.
Bottom line, I would do it again - but l most things with these cars, you need to go into it armed with some information, and the understanding that very few things are a straight-forward bolt in. Before doing this, I had stock arms with 550-lb springs, Bilstiens, Heim jointed strut rods and a (I think) 360-lb composite rear spring. new arms and composite bushings offer a lot more castor and very little flex in the front - The handling is night and day better (it was good before) - my 79 really sticks to the road now!
I have currently 550 front coils, 1 inch shorter than stock, poly upper and lower control arms in front, 1 1/8 OEM front sway bar OEM with poly endlink and mounting bushings, a Speedirect spreader bar, Bilstein HD shock in front only with poly bushings, and a custom blue printed/rebuilt OEM GM steering box by GTR1999. All new Moog balljoints as well with 255/45/17 ZR ultra high performance summer only tires and my car steerings and handles like on rails. Did you have rubber control arm bushings before you went with the global West arms and how much of the handling improvement was from the solid bushings versus the additional caster in the arms? My car is pretty impressive now and wondering if the Global West arms would help?
Last edited by jb78L-82; Jan 3, 2019 at 06:55 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 111
Likes: 9
Global West is the best bang for the buck out there. Not as much discussion on them here as others, but enough that I found them. I bought their complete front and rear set up. By my math it only cost me about $800 more than if I bought all new bushings, bearings and powder coated all of the pieces. I did buy on one of their sell events. Plus it gave me a semi coil over front end. Read all and make your own choice. Your committee can get to big if you let it.
Last edited by Dennis Tapp; Jan 3, 2019 at 08:49 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
Global West is the best bang for the buck out there. Not as much discussion on them here as others, but enough that I found them. I bought their complete front and rear set up. By my math it only cost me about $800 more than if I bought all new bushings, bearings and powder coated all of the pieces. I did buy on one of their sell events. Plus it gave me a semi coil over front end. Read all and make your own choice. Your committee can get to big if you let it.
I wish the Speed Direct ones were forged instead of cast.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 111
Likes: 9
Weight is not an issue for me. No racing. That is why I said best bang for the buck. Not necessarily the best thing you can put on the car. All of these projects are compromise for most. If I had an unlimited budget I would probably have done something different. But I don't.